posted
I use mineral spirits for cleaning all my brushes when working with 1-Shot. But the key to cleaning them lies in a tool called an UltraSonic cleaner. Mine has a timer as well as a S.S. tub.
Using Rapid-Remover is also great for cleaning your brushes as it simply removes the very last sediment.
-------------------- HotLines Joey Madden - pinstriping since 1952 'Perfection, its what I look for and what I live for'
posted
Mineral Spirits is the best way to start. Get down in the "heel" of the brush and squeeze out as much residue as possible....THEN.......soak the brush for a few minutes in transmission fluid, or 10 wt. NON-DETERGENT motor oil. This will soften the crap thats left."Palette-out" the brush, the lay it in a pan of tranny fluid. If there's ant paint left in the heel, it wont dry in the tranny fluid. When you go gto use the brush again, clean with mineral spirits. This is the "cheap" way to go, but it works, and it wont harm the brushes!
posted
We use mineral spirits as well. I have a coffee can of "dirty" spirits that I rough clean our brushes in. After getting most of the paint out I soak them by clipping them to the side of the can so they don't sit on the bottom. After soaking I use clean spirits and work the brush till no more color shows on a clean paper towel. The brushes are then dipped in ewe's oil and set in a tray till next use.
I use mineral spirits also. Clean your brush in stages with 3 containers . First container is dirty from previous cleanings. Second container is also dirty from previous cleanings but not as dirty as the first. Third container is clean mineral spirits. After a few cleanings in the third container, that container can become the second container.
Now here is an important part. Use mineral oil/baby oil for the final cleaning. I use a glass bowl with about an inch or so of mineral oil to "palette" the brush in. When you think you have the brush clean you will be surprised to see how much paint is still in the heel of the brush and can be removed with the mineral oil. The brushthen can be stored with the oil in it until its next use.
I used to use transmission fluid until finding out from this board how harsh tranny fluid is . (thanks OP)
Ps.....I also use the original mineral spirits container and transfer the dirtiest wash into that container and put the cap back on. After a while all the sediments will settle to the bottom and it can be reused as the first wash.
Hope this helps
-------------------- Ricky Simpson Simpson Signs South Central VA, USA "railroader aspiring to be fulltime SignArtist." Posts: 246 | From: VA | Registered: Jan 2000
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posted
Looks like mineral spirits is the right thing after all. Thanks for all the great help guys! Now if could just figure out how to get my brush back out of the tube where the transmission fluid dipstick goes...... Wayne
-------------------- Wayne Webb Webb Signworks Chipley, FL 850.638.9329 wayne@webbsignworks.com Posts: 7405 | From: Chipley,Florida,United States | Registered: Oct 1999
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posted
I favor the 3 bottle method when on the road but when at the shop, nothing beats the speed of cleaning, using an ultrasonic cleaner.
You can get yours at Lone Star technical 1.800.223.4936 ask for the refurbished "Blue model" it costs about $125. and features a timer and a 3 quart stainless steel capacity, you can use my name HotLines Joey Madden which does nothing for me but at least they know which model to give you. When using this unit, its as simple as 1.2.3, and your brushes are clean after 30 seconds in its tub. I also use a thingie I made for hanging the brushes over the top so the brush hairs along with the ferrel gets cleaned while just hanging out. For airbrushes, this tool is a must have. If you are using urethanes or lacquers in your tools as well as brushes, the best thing to do is fill the S.S. tub with water then add a smaller poly tub filled with lacquer thinner and your tools. I understand that alot of ol'timers use what they grew up with, but everyone is due for a change for the better as days go by and since using the ultrasonic, all these years, my hands look and feel alot better.
-------------------- HotLines Joey Madden - pinstriping since 1952 'Perfection, its what I look for and what I live for'
Hit the search thingie at the top of the page, this has been covered several times in the past.
We all have our own methods for cleaning brushes. Mine is to keep a Tupperware type of pan with a snap on lid filled about halfway with One-shot's brush cleaner and conditioner for storing the brushes. Most of the time, I just slosh the brush around in this, pull it through a paper towel a time or two, and then just put it in said container. With the exception of the reds, most of the other colors wash right out this way.
Face all the brushes in the same direction, snap on the lid, and rubber band a small block of wood under the bristle end, and you are good to go 'til the next time. The blocking up is so the bristles don't jam at the end of the container. The one drawback is getting the handles clean of the BC&C the next time you go to use a brush.
[ August 03, 2002, 02:04 PM: Message edited by: Bill Preston ]
-------------------- Bill Preston Fly Creek, N.Y. USA Posts: 943 | From: Fly Creek, N.Y. USA | Registered: Jan 2000
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posted
While we are on the brush care subject, try this. After I clean then soak in mineral oil, I have found a neat storage trick that is especially helpful for "traveling" brushes. I store them in shop this way also.
Go to a craft store or a Wal-Mart and buy some floral clay. Make 2 little logs for ea. brush appropriate in thickness for the brush size. Place the first against the end of the tray and push the end of the tip into it. The second piece is laid so that the ferrule will rest on it. Now press the ferrule into the clay so that the brush is suspended above the bottom surface. Turn the tray upside down and shake. Voila! The brush stays in place.
The floral clay is pliable and does not dry out, thus it can be reshaped from time to time. This is also a very inexpensive solution. It holds them in place without having to build or buy a special box or tray. I store all mine this way in an art bin tray.
posted
Good point Scooter. I guess if you left in there for an extended length of time it would get the "droops". So far I have not had that problem. The mineral oil keeps them straight. But then I don't own any of the VERRRY long bristled quills.
-------------------- Kathy Joiner River Road Graphics 41628 River Road Ponchatoula, La.70454
Old enough to know better...Too young to resist. Posts: 1891 | From: Ponchatoula, LA | Registered: Nov 2000
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posted
Many of the sign supply stores carry brush boxes, that come in various sizes. the ones that I use are metal and have coil springs across the bottom. You simply push the brushes and quills into the springs, leaving the oiled hair hanging out. The brushes are held in place and don't move. They are also protected when being moved and tossed about.
-------------------- Si Allen #562 La Mirada, CA. USA
(714) 521-4810
si.allen on Skype
siallen@dslextreme.com
"SignPainters do It with Longer Strokes!"
Never mess with your profile while in a drunken stupor!!!
Brushasaurus on Chat Posts: 8831 | From: La Mirada, CA, USA | Registered: Nov 1998
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posted
I have always used mineral spirits with success. I have used an ultrasonic once when in a Art Class where we used technical pens, and it worked well. Rick Sacks told me he tried to use that cleaning method for his brushes but was unhappy with it for some reason,...hey Rick could you share?
-------------------- Rich Stebbing RichSigns Rohnert Park CA 707-795-5588 Posts: 755 | From: Rohnert Park, CA | Registered: Nov 1998
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posted
what ever you do DON'T use lacquer thinner...you'll kill a brush with it, it looses its "snap" and you'll "fester" any old paint in the heal creating a knot at the base of the quill that will mis-shape the quill.
If you really want to get them clean and don't have an ultra-ssonic cleaner simply dip your brush in oil(after washing with mineral spirits) work it into the heel with your fingers then wash it out with spirits again and reload with oil and store...if need be repeat several times till all excess paint is out of the heal.
[ August 04, 2002, 11:53 PM: Message edited by: Monte Jumper ]
-------------------- "Werks fer me...it'll werk fer you"
posted
OK BOB...you and me gona fight!!!!! hehehehehe. brushes are animal hair right? same as you and me. go to a transmission shop, and watch the guys workin in that stuff...THEY WEAR GLOVES, WHEN EXPOSING THEM SELFS TO TRANNY FLUID!!!! the reason they put in the tranny..its full of caustic addatives..that will eat thru most anything.....ill stick with good old 10w non detergent....and you can drink it..instead of caster oil...hahahahahahaha
-------------------- joe pribish-A SIGN MINT 2811 longleaf Dr. pensacola, fl 32526 850-637-1519 BEWARE THE TRUTH.....YOU MAY NOT LIKE WHAT YOU FIND Posts: 11582 | From: pensacola, fl. usa | Registered: Nov 1998
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posted
I use the 3 step cleaning. The dirty mineral spirits sure accumulates fast. I have a big bottle of dirty spirits and pour off the top after the solids settle and use it in the first 2 washes. Then just go with the clean spirits in the last step. I started using the transmotion lotion and never had any problems so I continue using it. Some people started acting funny when I told them I oiled with it, I considered mineral oil. Some advocate dry storage of brushes.
posted
Paint thinner is getting weaker all the time, just like the paint. I discovered Naphtha recently - it's quite a bit stronger, like paint thinner used to be. After washing out your brush with PT wash in Naphtha and see how much more color comes out! It may also be used in your paint to accelerate drying time, but will not improve flow. It evaporates very fast, keep the container covered. I use baby oil for storage after trying "everything else" - it's just mineral oil with some perfume added. I get it at the 99 cent store = about 1/4 the price of Johnson&Johnson. I keep my quills laying flat in baby oil with the handle end raised a little and haven't had any trouble in recent years, after Lard Oil went to Hell in a hand basket about 8 years back.
I only use lacquer thinner on a brush that has probably died anyway - a last resort. And as soon as I get the brush clean I wash thouroughly in PT and baby oil to get the lacquer out of it. It will dry out the hair something fierce.
Posts: 1859 | From: / | Registered: Nov 1998
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posted
HEY JOE.....YOU'RE RIGHT! 10wt.N.D. is the answer if you're brushes are gonna sit. But the tranny fluid sure cleans better.....but you're right in "saying" that the tranny fluid is potent stuff! NOT SOMETHING TO OVER-USE!
posted
I use the 3 tier cleaning method with Mineral Spirits first and last with a middle cleaning of Naptha, as it seem to remove stuff the MS won't very well. I clean until you can get color onto a paper towel, and then use the Transmission Fluid. It will remove any leftover residues and will even clean out very old stuff from miss cleanings. I don't expect to get over a couple of years from a brush, as they are not that expensive overall, for the uses they get. Lets say I have used about 400% more value of cleaner and paper towels, that the brush value. I have clean, good brushes, and if I don't waste too much time cleaning them, I can afford some more. I would say I have gotten about 200 cleaning out of the ones I have now with little to no damage.
-------------------- "Don't change horses in midstream, unless you spot one with longer legs" bronzeo oti Jack Davis 1410 Main St Joplin, MO 64801 www.imagemakerart.com jack@imagemakerart.com Posts: 1549 | From: Joplin, MO | Registered: Mar 2000
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posted
I suppose an average of 2 years per brush is about right anymore, though I have some from 30 years ago that I still use from time to time.
I looked on eBay and I can only find one Ultra Sonic cleaner - it's a monster for $850.00. At that price, considering the use I get out of my brushes I'd rather stay with my cheap methods. It works for me...
Posts: 1859 | From: / | Registered: Nov 1998
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posted
i assume most know this but for those that dont....when you by a new brush, put it in the 10w motor oil for a couple days, let the oil get up into the heall of the new brush, then clean and use for paintin. this way the oil is in the heel of the brush and the paint cant get in there!!!!
-------------------- joe pribish-A SIGN MINT 2811 longleaf Dr. pensacola, fl 32526 850-637-1519 BEWARE THE TRUTH.....YOU MAY NOT LIKE WHAT YOU FIND Posts: 11582 | From: pensacola, fl. usa | Registered: Nov 1998
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posted
All of this is great for quills and flats. What about big brushes? Whe Scott came to work for me he brought his own housepainting brushes - 3 and 4 inch Purdy's - and we virtually stopped using rollers to coat out. Scott gets an unbelievable background finish with his "mops" or his "weapons"- finishes that are comparable to spraying - without the bubbles and stipple effect of rollers. Big brushes are a differnt animal to clean and store. We keep a 5-gallon waste thinner bucket for mineral spirits. The brush is washed in recycled spirits twice, then new sprits. Between each wash the brush is spun in a mechanical spinner, and combed with a wire brush to "activate" the bristles so the spirits can flush the paint. When the brush is clean - ie, no color in the last wash - the brush is suspended in a mixture of gum turpentine and raw linseed oil, on a rack inside a closed 5-gallon bucket. This mix is specific - if the brushes hang in mineral spirits, they "ice", or get a coatng of insoluable crud on the bristles, and are ruined. Scott has brushes 8 to 10 years old that are like new. Recycling thinner: Dirty wash thinner (mineral spirits) is kept in a sealed bucket. When it is too full to spin the brush inside the bucket, the bucket goes out back for a month or so, where it sits undisturbed, and a fresh bucket is used for dirty thinner. In that time the paint solids sink to the bottom, leaving two or three gallons of almost-clean thinner on top. when the new bucket gets too full, we pour off the "recycled" thinner into plastic or metal jugs, then take the nasty bottom sludge to the toxic waste collector. The new bucket now rests until we fill the old one again. Our system saves us lots of money, keeps our coating-out brushes in like-new condition, and we don't waste thinner. Win-win for all.
-------------------- "A wise man concerns himself with the truth, not with what people believe." - Aristotle
Cam Bortz Finest Kind Signs Pondside Iron works 256 S. Broad St. Pawcatuck, Ct. 06379 "Award winning Signs since 1988" Posts: 3051 | From: Pawcatuck,Connecticut USA | Registered: Nov 1998
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quote:Originally posted by Santo: . Some people started acting funny when I told them I oiled with it, I considered mineral oil. Some advocate dry storage of brushes.[/QB]
Umm, Santo, what kinda "funny" are we talkin' about here??
Mike, instead of using lacquer thinner for those "last resort" brushes (your favorite flat you left sitting on a palette, overnite) - I used to use Resin Bond. Hand-spun that baby and there was not a drop of paint in it, and the bristles were nice and fluffy!!
posted
I also use tranny fluid with great success. My preferred way to coat-out boards is roll it on and "tip-it-off" with a good brush, such as a Purdy. By tipping-off you are using only very tip of brush which makes cleaning much easier. I do dunk em' in tranny fluid and wrap em' in newspaper. I have had some of the same Purdy brushes for more than 10 years kept this way and they are still in top shape.
-------------------- Rich Stebbing RichSigns Rohnert Park CA 707-795-5588 Posts: 755 | From: Rohnert Park, CA | Registered: Nov 1998
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posted
Pete, I was asked what I oiled my brushes with by a striper while at a motorcycle paint shop. The painter and the striper both replied that transmission fluid was no good. "Too harsh", "that's crazy", "they will never last". similar comments are seen here. The thing was, the striper had a small box with brushes loose inside. I have always used small amounts on my brushes and never leave them floating in the oil. Although some of the quills and flats are 5 years old, they don't have the wear that some of you daily painters will have on your brushes. I've never had to discard a brush. Cam, the Purdy's are a pleasure to use. I use mine for varnish only.
posted
i used to know an old sign painter that used diesel fuel to clean his
-------------------- Jimmy Chatham Chatham Signs 468 stark st Commerce, Ga 30529 Posts: 1766 | From: Commerce, GA, USA | Registered: Nov 1998
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Resin Bond is a liquid adhesive (!) that was used to adhere plastic cut letters onto a sheet of plexiglass. It had the consistency of naptha and came in a blue gallon can. You poured it into a little plastic container that had a needle-like metal spout that allowed you to squirt a thin stream under the plastic letter as it lay on the plexi. Evaporated and dried quickly!
It sounds like the last thing you would use to clean a brush, but an oldtimer at the shop I was working at back in the 80's told me to try it, and I put some in a little can and it got ALL the dried paint out, and when you spun it, the brush was fluffy and new!! Incredible!
Since I don't do those kind of signs now I don't know if Resin Bond even exists anymore.
posted
I used to use M.E.K. to clean brushes when I first started out. I used the same sables in water base and enamel and cleaned with the MEK and I used the same brushes for 9 years. They were pretty dry, but seemed to work for me at the time - of course I did pretty crummy work in those days, so how would I know if it was working or not.
I understand the Turpentine for storing large brushes, I know house painters do that and I keep some larger brushes in it, too -- but why the Raw Linseed Oil? It takes a long time but eventually it will dry, won't it? Or at least it gets to a dry/sticky state.
Cheryl - Nice new pic! Ya got the Betty Page thing goin' on there.
Posts: 1859 | From: / | Registered: Nov 1998
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posted
Cam and Mike....back when I was young, and housepaintering was a profession....all the ol'Boys suspended their brushes in turps/linseed. They drilled a hole in the handle of the big brushes and used a rod to suspend them, small brushes were clipped to the side using the ols spung type wooden clothes pins. For short term, they dipped them in that mix and wrapped them in newspaper.
-------------------- Si Allen #562 La Mirada, CA. USA
(714) 521-4810
si.allen on Skype
siallen@dslextreme.com
"SignPainters do It with Longer Strokes!"
Never mess with your profile while in a drunken stupor!!!
Brushasaurus on Chat Posts: 8831 | From: La Mirada, CA, USA | Registered: Nov 1998
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posted
According to G.O. Keller (Scott's dad) who is a third-generation German housepainter, the "French Spirits" (turpentine) prevents the oil from getting gummy and causing "Icing", and the oil preserves the bristles. The brush bucket has a tightly sealed lid to prevent evaporation. And it works great!
-------------------- "A wise man concerns himself with the truth, not with what people believe." - Aristotle
Cam Bortz Finest Kind Signs Pondside Iron works 256 S. Broad St. Pawcatuck, Ct. 06379 "Award winning Signs since 1988" Posts: 3051 | From: Pawcatuck,Connecticut USA | Registered: Nov 1998
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