posted August 01, 2002 02:03 AM
I've stained a large routed redwood sign, background and letters with a semi-transparent stain and was wondering what to use for priming the letters before applying 1-shot. Would the stain serve as a primer? In the past I've used latex primer but I hesitate to use it over the oil stain. Any suggestions?
-------------------- Andrew Parker Parker Sign Metaline Falls, WA mycotrope@potc.net
"Fast is fine, but accuracy is everything" ---Wyatt Earp Posts: 9 | From: Metaline Falls, WA | Registered: Nov 1998
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posted August 01, 2002 09:14 AM
I could be wrong but my understanding has been oil over latex is ok and but latex over oil is a no no. So having said that I would guess that latex primer would work. I would use fast drying block out on the letters before appling my one shot. I personally would not trust the stain as a primer. Redwood has lots of tanins(SP?) and I think it is best to seal it with block out. Just my two cents.
posted August 01, 2002 02:51 PM
Latex primer over Redwood will not seal in the tannin. It takes an oil base primer to do so. The tannin will surface through 15 coats of latex, even the stain blocking kind...maybe not a full 15 coats, but it will come through way more coats than you want. However, if you are painting with 1 Shot, you will probably seal it in.
-------------------- David Harding A Sign of Excellence Carrollton, TX Posts: 5106 | From: Carrollton, TX, USA | Registered: Nov 1998
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posted August 01, 2002 03:58 PM
Hey Andrew, I have build hundreds of sandblasted redwood signs and did them all with solid color stains. I spray them on with an HVLP gun (two coats) they level off beautifully and leave a nice, flat finish which doesn't hide the beauty of the wood grain.
I first prime the blank with First Step before blasting. This will give you an oilbased primer under your lettering.
Then prime the blasted areas with waterbased solid color stain followed by a second coat of the same stain.
99 and 44/100% of the time the first coat WILL block the tannins. The only problem I have ever had with it was on one or two small Western Red Cedar signs out of a job of over a dozen. These signs were background stained very light baby blue and on these I had to just add a couple more coats of stain. I can't remember tanins ever coming through on a redwood sign. The reason I prime first with FirstStep is because I pre-paint most of my signs.
You can even blast the raw blank, (using high tac stencil) pull the stencil off, sand the letters, spray the whole thing with two coats of solid color stain, (the stain on the letters will be as smooth as a baby's bottom) and then topcoat your letters by hand with acrylic latex or OneShot.
I don't know about the semi-transparent stains.
[ August 01, 2002, 04:09 PM: Message edited by: Wayne Webb ]
-------------------- Wayne Webb Webb Signworks Chipley, FL 850.638.9329 wayne@webbsignworks.com Posts: 7405 | From: Chipley,Florida,United States | Registered: Oct 1999
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posted August 01, 2002 04:33 PM
I think Wayne is on to something here. Hmmmm... Prime before you blast. Good. Another way is to; leave the blast mask on while you stain the background. Aftwards; peel the mask off the lettering and prime with "block`out", using a 4" roller.
"Block`out" for your prime situation. (above question)
-------------------- Richard Bustamante Signs in the Pines www.signsinthepines.com Posts: 781 | From: Nevada City, California | Registered: Nov 1998
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posted August 01, 2002 05:04 PM
Ive got 9 golf HOLE SIGNS on the go right now. Ive primed them with H2o based "BULLSEYE" primer/sealer. On the instructions it states 'good for cedar'. I had to put 5 to 6 coats on before I didn't see the tannins anymore. They are ready for the blast mask and have been ready for 3 weeks now(give it a long curing time.)Still, no tannins visible. Thjis is the first time Ive primed first before blasting. Iplan to stain the blasted portions and put my paint on after. Hoping there is little or no peel up (with 6 coats of primer, you would think there would be no grain pull up) Just my 2 cents.....ranting
posted August 01, 2002 05:35 PM
Yep, prime with FirstStep before you blast. You can then topcoat with Oneshot or acrylic waterbased. BUT....let it all dry for 5 to 7 days before blasting.
Then blast, Right Richard, leave the mask on until you've stained the background.
Right after the stain starts to dry to touch, carefully remove the stencil. This will minimize leaving a little ridge of latex paint. If there is any rifge left, it comes off easily with a fingernail.
The sign is now done, the letters are neat and sharp, no brush marks, no paint stickin' to the sides of your letters, no hand paintin' unless it has several colors of copy. You can use your computer to determine where the colors are and mask accordingly.
Primed, Sealed, Delivered
-------------------- Wayne Webb Webb Signworks Chipley, FL 850.638.9329 wayne@webbsignworks.com Posts: 7405 | From: Chipley,Florida,United States | Registered: Oct 1999
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