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Anyone ever gilded with slow oil size(LeFranc)over acrylic latex paint? Do you round the surfaces of your letters? Ever gilded over TC resin? Thanks
-------------------- Wayne Webb Webb Signworks Chipley, FL 850.638.9329 wayne@webbsignworks.com Posts: 7404 | From: Chipley,Florida,United States | Registered: Oct 1999
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Wayne, I have put gold leaf over latex (green) and it looked GREAT !!! And, a year later, the green latex migrated through the gold and looked awful. I mean shamefully awful. Now, with more experience, I put down a latex primer like Jay Cooke's then a layer of OneShot chrome yellow base coat. THEN do the sizing and gilding. Yes, the loose gold will float and stick to everything around. But, the touch-ups are well worth the trouble in the long run. Good question,,,,,, and, I'm sure there will be much asorted input on this one.
-------------------- John Smith Kings Bay Signs (Retired) Kissimmee, Florida Posts: 817 | From: Central Florida - The Sunshine State | Registered: Jan 2000
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This was done on HDU with latex and 23k gold patent leaf.....
After rolling on two coats of green satin latex paint (no primer), I applied OneShot Imitation Gold Lettering Enamel to the letters and the inline border. After it dried, I applied LaFranc oil size, waited for proper tack, and applied the leaf. Clean up was minimal.
I've only gilded over latex once ... and had a failure with it. But I don't believe it counts, as it was also over concrete. If you want details, just give me a call, and I'll be happy to share.
Personally, I think that gilding over one shot, after doing a thorough sanding, produces a smooth finish, and thus a more brilliant gild.
I have rounded the edges of blasted letters, and I do like the effect. An example can be seen on my mazzeppa panel on my website.
I have yet to try TC Resin.
smiles, Janette
-------------------- "When Love and Skill Work Together ... Expect a Masterpiece"
I have gilded over TC resin(called Signshine now). The resin will offer you the smoothest possible gilding surface for the amount of time invested in my opinion.
I did just that on a sign I made for myself, and folks like that particular effect better than "flat " gold(gilded without the resin). This was my second or third try at gilding and it would have looked much better I am sure if I had had more experience gilding.
I havent aquired the ability to post pics, but if someone can graciously offer their assistance I would be glad to take a pic with my digital camera and show you the effect.
Ricky
-------------------- Ricky Simpson Simpson Signs South Central VA, USA "railroader aspiring to be fulltime SignArtist." Posts: 246 | From: VA | Registered: Jan 2000
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Ricky...looking forward to seeing your sign! I would never think to gild over latex, but then I guess I just like the way oil base paints flow out.
Posts: 3729 | From: Seattle | Registered: Sep 1999
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I normally use only latex on my sandblasted signs but I will try the TC resin and the one shot. Both of my experiments over latex have failed. The first time I put the size on too thick and that flopped so the next time (yesterday) I brushed it on thin. I sized at about 4:45PM EST and gilded at 9:30AM EST. That was almost 17 hours so I figured the size should be ready. It took the gold just fine and looked brilliant. It was almost like a mirror in the sunlight. But when I tried to lightly burnish it to see how it would do, it started rubbing off. It's like the size is reacting with the latex paint, softening it, and staying gooey.
This is only my second attempt at gilding so I'll keep trying. I'm going to try rubbing the gold and gooey size off the piece(a sandblasted HDU practice piece) with some mineral spirits and topcoating with OneShot. I think I'll try the resin on one side of it.
Thanks again!!
[ June 12, 2002, 10:56 AM: Message edited by: Wayne Webb ]
-------------------- Wayne Webb Webb Signworks Chipley, FL 850.638.9329 wayne@webbsignworks.com Posts: 7404 | From: Chipley,Florida,United States | Registered: Oct 1999
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I sent the pics to you last nite. Did you get them?
Thanks , Ricky
-------------------- Ricky Simpson Simpson Signs South Central VA, USA "railroader aspiring to be fulltime SignArtist." Posts: 246 | From: VA | Registered: Jan 2000
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i believe glenn answered the question well. it all comes down to "tooth"
i have produced sandblasted redwood signs this way. the key is between the layers of latex, lightly sand, then 1shot imitation enamels, size, then lay the leaf.
i have signs out there of this type for over 5 years, no sign of breakdown between the gold lettering and it's latex background. plus no weeping of the background with a semi-gloss latex.
-------------------- Ricky Simpson Simpson Signs South Central VA, USA "railroader aspiring to be fulltime SignArtist." Posts: 246 | From: VA | Registered: Jan 2000
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It takes some practice to get it down correctly to the edge as you can see I didnt quite get it to the edge on some of the letters as it was my first time using the resin. From a distance its not that noticeable though.
The last time I used it I was a little more patient and got the resin to the edge better. A letter that has a rough edge will not produce the desired effect, also. The resin will find its way to any edge imperfection.
Also , by adding a few drops of 1-shot to the resin you can create beautiful glass like letters in the color of your choice that are tough as nails.
Thanks to Dave Sherby for sharing a great product !
And thanks to all of you heads that are willing to share to help me realize my dreams of being a better sign artist .
Letterville rocks! Great job Steve and Barb!
-------------------- Ricky Simpson Simpson Signs South Central VA, USA "railroader aspiring to be fulltime SignArtist." Posts: 246 | From: VA | Registered: Jan 2000
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