posted
I always mess up when I pounce because I use spray adhesive on pattern and it clogs up pounce holes what's your technique? I have hand pouncer. Also do you you use regular chalk or do you use other? Does it make much difference?
-------------------- Ivan Otero Gecko Graphics Naugatuck, CT gotero@snet.net Posts: 50 | From: Naugatuck,CT, United States | Registered: Jan 2001
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1. It clogs up the holes 2. doesn't let the pattern quivver
Use tape to hold it in place and pounce with black or white pounce powders (available from your sign supply dealer). Hansee makes a nice pounce pad that you fill with powder...keeps your hands cleaner....I have 1 for each color.
[ June 01, 2002, 05:23 PM: Message edited by: Si Allen ]
-------------------- Si Allen #562 La Mirada, CA. USA
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Brushasaurus on Chat Posts: 8827 | From: La Mirada, CA, USA | Registered: Nov 1998
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posted
Just put a couple of pieces of masking tape to hold it in place. Put a couple of index marks--one each side-- so you can relocate it if you have to re-pounce.
Baby powder if pouncing to a dark surface, Blue carpenters snap line chalk or powdered charcoal on a light surface.
If you perforate your pattern with a hand held wheel, lightly sand the back side of the pattern to open up the holes a little bit.
To prevent erasing your "print", especially if you have more than one line of copy, either use a mahl stick, or edge tape a piece of newspaper or plotter paper, and cover the lines below the one you are working on.
If pattern is hand drawn, that is one thing, but if you generate it on a computer, you can plot it in reverse, perforate from the plotted side, sand the other side. Point is that the "points" will then be towards you, and will catch more powder, and you get a better "print" on your surface.
[ May 31, 2002, 09:24 PM: Message edited by: Bill Preston ]
-------------------- Bill Preston Fly Creek, N.Y. USA Posts: 943 | From: Fly Creek, N.Y. USA | Registered: Jan 2000
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I had feeling you were gonna say that, I guess the reason I spray it is because I need it to stay tight when cutting it with jigsaw but I guess it makes sense to pounce after pattern is used for cutting. Thanks for a quick reality check.
-------------------- Ivan Otero Gecko Graphics Naugatuck, CT gotero@snet.net Posts: 50 | From: Naugatuck,CT, United States | Registered: Jan 2001
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posted
If you're cutting with a jig saw there are several possible ways that are more efficient.
If you only need to cut one copy, just glue the paper down on the board and cut. If you need more coppies, make more patterns. You can rub charcoal sticks on the back of the pattern and put it over another piece of paper and use it as carbon paper.
You could pounce the pattern onto the board and then give it a light spray of fixitive. We often use the cheap laquer hair spray, but there are odorless options.
If you have a computer you can cut a mask and apply the part you want to keep and just cut around it.
You can apply transfer tape and pounce pattern on it and cut. This makes it easier to see sometimes on wood that has light and dark grain.
When you use your pounce wheel, put a piece of felt under the paper. Sho card works well also. Sand the back side lightly. Never use red chalk powder!
-------------------- The SignShop Mendocino, California
Making the simple complicated is commonplace; making the complicated simple, awesomely simple, that's creativity. — Charles Mingus Posts: 6714 | From: Mendocino, CA. USA | Registered: Nov 1998
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A pounce pattern may not work too well for jigsaw work, in that the powder may blow away as you cut.
If something called pencil carbon paper is still available, you could tape your pattern down, then slide a piece of the carbon paper between the pattern and the work surface. Redraw on top of the pattern, and the carbon paper will transfer the picture, lettering or whatever to the surface, and it will stay put as you cut.
-------------------- Bill Preston Fly Creek, N.Y. USA Posts: 943 | From: Fly Creek, N.Y. USA | Registered: Jan 2000
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I got one box left of it and cannot find it anywhere...
Let me know if you have a supplier on this.
Another round trip on doing this project is to buy as cheap as you can get Vinyl and cut,then lay it down and cut with Jig/Scroll Saw... Saved file for future work.
Are we still having Fun?
-------------------- Stephen Deveau RavenGraphics Insinx Digital Displays
Letting Your Imagination Run Wild! Posts: 4327 | From: Lower Sackville, Nova Scotia, Canada | Registered: Jan 2000
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posted
The main purpose and advantage to using a perforated pattern and pounce powder is for creating multiple copies of the same design.
If you're only using the pattern one time and cutting with a jigsaw, then there's no need to perforate the pattern.
Draw the pattern, use your spray adhesive, apply it to the material you have to cut and then cut it.
If you're using the pattern more than one time, then you can perforate it using the directions given above. I always got the best results from patterns I drew in reverse and perforated from the bottom surface to the top surface. Sanding the "points" will open the perforations more.
Sometimes you can place registration marks on the paper so that you don't have to measure every time you use the pattern.
-------------------- EmpY Mayo Pardo #138 South Elgin, IL. Posts: 436 | From: South Elgin, IL | Registered: Nov 1998
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Perforated patterns... I read, I think from Pat King, that baby powder has some oils in it that will interfere with lettering paint.
Regarding tracing, Saral paper, available from Michaels art stores on the west coast, in white, blue, yellow, carbon, and red, has no oil, sharp and clean for tracing....
John / BIG TOP Graphics
-------------------- John Lennig / Big Top Sign Arts 5668 Ewart Street, Burnaby, British Columbia, Canada bigtopya@hotmail.com 604.451.0006 Posts: 2184 | From: Burnaby, British Columbia,Canada | Registered: Nov 2001
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i find baby powder...works great(even if it has oils, i keep my brushes in 10w)and the solvents in mineral spirits will move the oil. i use TEMPRA PAINT POWDER for the black powder....it is super fine, bit always will go thru the holes....i find the carpneter chalks to pull moisture from the air....and you reall gota smack it to get it to go thru holes..
-------------------- joe pribish-A SIGN MINT 2811 longleaf Dr. pensacola, fl 32526 850-637-1519 BEWARE THE TRUTH.....YOU MAY NOT LIKE WHAT YOU FIND Posts: 11582 | From: pensacola, fl. usa | Registered: Nov 1998
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I have a electric pounce machine that works GREAT (after you shock the *@#%* out of you a couple of times). There is nothing better than the smell of burning paper! A couple of tips: Never use any type of metal straightedge, Never touch the end of the pouncer, it bites!, if you are using pencil or charcoal to draw the image, make sure you don't rub your hand across the drawing, the charcoal residue on your hand likes to conduct electricity.
I just use an old sock with blue chalk or powdered charcoal.
-------------------- Michael Clanton Clanton Graphics/ Blackberry 19 Studio 1933 Blackberry Conway AR 72034 501-505-6794 clantongraphics@yahoo.com Posts: 1736 | From: Conway Arkansas | Registered: Oct 2001
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I use cheap hairspray over the powder after pouncing and it keeps it from blowing away.
(and, for you guys that saw it in my paint corner, I bet you thought it was for my HAIR!)
-------------------- John Smith Kings Bay Signs (Retired) Kissimmee, Florida Posts: 816 | From: Central Florida - The Sunshine State | Registered: Jan 2000
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will those electic ones take off warts?????hehehehehehehe ever been to a dermatoligists office? they have a simlar thing on the wall and asked once what it was for..and he told me they use it to burn off warts...
-------------------- joe pribish-A SIGN MINT 2811 longleaf Dr. pensacola, fl 32526 850-637-1519 BEWARE THE TRUTH.....YOU MAY NOT LIKE WHAT YOU FIND Posts: 11582 | From: pensacola, fl. usa | Registered: Nov 1998
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