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» The Letterville BullBoard » Old Archives » Priming Sign Foam

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Author Topic: Priming Sign Foam
Ivan D. Otero
Visitor
Member # 1924

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Just wondering what are some of your favorite primers for sign foam.

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Ivan Otero
Gecko Graphics
Naugatuck, CT
gotero@snet.net

Posts: 50 | From: Naugatuck,CT, United States | Registered: Jan 2001  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Steve Purcell
Visitor
Member # 1140

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I use Chromatic 1010 water borne acrylic for everyday work.

Thumbs down on the PB oil base high build.

I like PPG's high build primer the best. Awesome, smooth sanding, flashes off in minutes. But you have to spray it, so it's not very practical for small stuff.

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Steve Purcell
Purcell Woodcarving & Signmaking
Cape Cod, MA

**************************
Intelligent Design Is No Accident

Posts: 900 | From: Cape Cod, MA | Registered: Oct 1999  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Glenn Taylor
Visitor
Member # 162

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I quit priming it. I just use regular exterior latex paint for the background and go from there.

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BlueDog Graphics
Wilson, NC

www.BlueDogUSA.com

Warning: A well designed sign may cause fatigue due to increased business.

Posts: 10690 | From: Wilson, NC, USA | Registered: Nov 1998  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Cam Bortz
Visitor
Member # 55

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We have also quit priming. HDU accepts any type of paint; the only factor being how smooth a finish is required. Depending on the job we use acrylic latex or 1-shot, and build up the background with several coats.
Currently we have a carved 15lb. HDU job in the shop being painted with black 1-shot. Four coats
have produced a reasonably smooth and acceptable finish. If the job requires a background color more likely to fade, such as dark blue, we use acrylic latex from Benjamin Moore. My only complaint with acrylics is the need to use a lot more paint to cover and fill completely.

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"A wise man concerns himself with the truth, not with what people believe." - Aristotle


Cam Bortz
Finest Kind Signs
Pondside Iron works
256 S. Broad St.
Pawcatuck, Ct. 06379
"Award winning Signs since 1988"

Posts: 3051 | From: Pawcatuck,Connecticut USA | Registered: Nov 1998  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Felix Marcano
Visitor
Member # 1833

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Sherwin Williams Pro Block.

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Felix Marcano
PuertoRicoSigns.Com
Luquillo, PR

Work hard, party like a tourist!

Posts: 2274 | From: Luquillo, Puerto Rico, USA | Registered: Nov 2000  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
captain ken
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Member # 742

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I was discussing this at Mass Mayhem with Mike Zee, he is also dumping a whole lot of 1 shot on unprimed hdu, doing a demo piece he says " Hey check it out, thats only 5 coats".... Five coats? I said thats a lot of paint and a lot of time & personally I was not impressed with the finish. I would save time and money by using Jay Cooke primer on the first 2 coats, and 2 coats of finish
(Ronan Bulliten)
Also, another theroy I been playing with:
1 coat of fiberglas resin
1 coat of automotive primer
2 coats of automotive single stage urathane finish

this gives you a smooth as glass finish and hard as a rock with a long life expectance

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Ken McTague,
Concept Signs
57 Bridge St. (route 107)
Salem MA 01970
1-978-745-5800
conceptsign@yahoo.com
http://www.pinheadlounge.com/CaptainKen

---------------------------------

"A wise man once said that, or was it a wise guy?"

Posts: 2425 | From: Salem, MA | Registered: Apr 1999  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Jack Davis
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Member # 1408

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Capt.,, How do you sand that Jay Cooke primer. It is the worst sanding primer I have ever used. It also released and peeled up from the (cleaned) HDU and cost me approx. 2 days of redo. I use the Coastal FSC88WB (waterbase) primers with very little problem though.

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"Don't change horses in midstream, unless you spot one with longer legs" bronzeo oti
Jack Davis
1410 Main St
Joplin, MO 64801
www.imagemakerart.com
jack@imagemakerart.com

Posts: 1549 | From: Joplin, MO | Registered: Mar 2000  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Wayne Webb
Resident


Member # 1124

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Jack, I had the same problem with "balling up" on the sandpaper and the peelup on a $5k sign! I also went to the FSC88WB. Also, taking advice from some here on the BB, I started rinsing off my HDU under a strong stream of water in addition to my blowing it off with an air hose. It gets dust that the air fails to.

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Wayne Webb
Webb Signworks
Chipley, FL
850.638.9329
wayne@webbsignworks.com

Posts: 7404 | From: Chipley,Florida,United States | Registered: Oct 1999  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
captain ken
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Member # 742

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I never clean it just cut it, brush it off with a 9" brush and prime it twice, then I put one coat of finish on sand and one more coat, if I want a smooth glass finish I use the automotive urathanes
hmmm.... if the stuff is urathane foam, what better to stick to it but urathane paint!

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Ken McTague,
Concept Signs
57 Bridge St. (route 107)
Salem MA 01970
1-978-745-5800
conceptsign@yahoo.com
http://www.pinheadlounge.com/CaptainKen

---------------------------------

"A wise man once said that, or was it a wise guy?"

Posts: 2425 | From: Salem, MA | Registered: Apr 1999  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Ivan D. Otero
Visitor
Member # 1924

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Well you guys helped alot. Five coats does seem to be alot. As far as glass finishes, a good coating of One-Shot over a good priming is plenty glossy for me. I Appreciate your replies as always you guys/gals never let me down Thanks!!

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Ivan Otero
Gecko Graphics
Naugatuck, CT
gotero@snet.net

Posts: 50 | From: Naugatuck,CT, United States | Registered: Jan 2001  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
   

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