posted
i've got a new customer with a $650 budget for a 12'x2' sign -- i thought it would be great to make this curved out from the wall, as in the drawing below. i'd like to hang the sign from the overhang, rather than wall-mount.
can this be done by making sort of a sideways "D"? (in other words, strap/tie the ends of the sheet material together). can i just use .080" aluminum or maybe plastic sheet? it seems simple, but when i get down to how it actually would work, i'm not so sure.
posted
Scooter, Joey's PVC approach will work. One of the PVC manufacturers may have literature on forming shapes.
The other way is to work with plywood and slot the back so that it will take a shape. If you have watched This Old House, at some point you have seen Norm slot a plank and wrap it around something. Vic G
posted
Scooter...you might want to reduce the curve...it will make it a lot more readable (too much curve and you won't be able to read all the letters at once.
If you want something that will last I suggest you use .063 aluminum (it comes readily in 4' x 12' sheets.
You can cut the curve desired from any material you see fit ...but if it were me I'd sheer the sheet in half then sheer one half in half and base the curve on 12"width of material...using the remainder as the facia.
You might want to shorten the face slightly so the materials match in length when you assemble.
Place each curve in about 3" from the edge (top and bottom)
Start in the middle and bend the material to fit the curve and start welding from the center and work your way back and forth stich welding every 3 inches or so (about 3/4" long)
You will most likely have to tie the two(webs) together in two or three spots to reinforce the face. (a couple of 2" straps of .063 would probably handle it)
If you can't visualize this drop me an e-mail and I will fax you a sketch.
-------------------- "Werks fer me...it'll werk fer you"
[ July 03, 2003, 10:30 PM: Message edited by: Ron Helliar ]
-------------------- Ron Helliar Marysville Sign 11807 51st Ave. NE Marysville, WA 98271 (360) 659-4856 Posts: 263 | From: Marysville, WA USA | Registered: Feb 1999
| IP: Logged |
posted
I agree with Ron. That the easy way to do it and it will make a really nice job, easy install. Bring an extra piece , if you have it, (scrap 2 ft or so, any width) of dibond for the machinist to set up with. It shouldn't take more than 10 minutes and shouldn't be too expensive.
-------------------- Mike O'Neill
It has yet to be proven that intelligence has any survival value. - Arthur C. Clarke
posted
That is correct. Dibond's reps came to my shop to demo how easy it is to form a smooth curve with Dibond. They took a piece and hand wrapped it around a barrel lying on its side. A 12 foot piece would require a few arms and legs or mechanicals. It really looks nice though. Jack
-------------------- "Don't change horses in midstream, unless you spot one with longer legs" bronzeo oti Jack Davis 1410 Main St Joplin, MO 64801 www.imagemakerart.com jack@imagemakerart.com Posts: 1549 | From: Joplin, MO | Registered: Mar 2000
| IP: Logged |
posted
diabond will work or also 3/16 aluminiumwill work, I resently did a job that was a info booth and the ends wer radius half circles, we made the whole thing out of aluminum, lettered the signs the covered the signs with transfer tape and rolled them at the sheet metal shop next door. One thing is aluminium that thick wont bend a return on the ends so figure your installation out before hand too.
-------------------- Ken McTague, Concept Signs 57 Bridge St. (route 107) Salem MA 01970 1-978-745-5800 conceptsign@yahoo.com http://www.pinheadlounge.com/CaptainKen
---------------------------------
"A wise man once said that, or was it a wise guy?" Posts: 2425 | From: Salem, MA | Registered: Apr 1999
| IP: Logged |
posted
On a more economical note, we used to cut two pieces of 2x12 to length, cut matching curves (usually a 10" radius). Then set the boards curve up on the table and nail down the metal skin from the center out and around the bends. A few blocks can be mounted vertically between the 2x12's for strength and mounting.
-------------------- The SignShop Mendocino, California
Making the simple complicated is commonplace; making the complicated simple, awesomely simple, that's creativity. — Charles Mingus Posts: 6713 | From: Mendocino, CA. USA | Registered: Nov 1998
| IP: Logged |
posted
let me recap -- there seems to be three workable ideas here:
1. (Rick's suggestion) use wood as a form, cut the wood to create the arc, and attach thin aluminum skin to the wood, curving as you go. (I suspect that fiberglas board, masonite, or PVC could work just as well as the aluminum, if you cross-brace the two wood forms).
2. (Ron's suggesion) have a machine shop with a rolling press form the arc from 3mm dibond.
3. (Joey's suggestion) heat-form PVC.
Victor's idea of slotting plywood sounds time consuming and ends up with a heavy sign, so i'm tossing that one out. (also, i suspect finishing the edges would be more difficult, and i'd always be afraid the thing would crack at a weak spot. i might try it if somebody knew exactly what plywood, how deep and how wide to cut it, etc... too dangerous for a beginner like me to play around with).
#3 is attractive, because the final piece would be light and easy to hang, but i'm wondering if i'd have to build a form to heat it over? sounds like it would work if i had a bigger torch.
i like #1 because i could do it all myself (!) and it uses materials i'm familiar with (wood and aluminum).
#2 sounds like more out-of-pocket expense, but also ends up with a very clean, simple, and elegant solution with minimal prep or finishing needed.
i've never used Dibond -- what is it? would i need to do anthing to it other than cut, form and letter? does it need an edge cap or any special treatment?
thank you for all the wonderful suggestions!
-------------------- :: Scooter Marriner :: :: Coyote Signs :: :: Oakland, CA :: :: still a beginner :: :: Posts: 1356 | From: Oakland (and San Francisco) | Registered: Mar 2001
| IP: Logged |
posted
Scooter, Here's a link http://www.alusuisse-comp.com/. They are a merchant here and you should be able to find a wholesaler near you. Dibond is a great substitute for plywood or when aluminum .080 is too weighty and .063 is still to light. Incredable dimensional stability. I don't use any edge moulding but I do use a deburr tool to knock the edge down. Cuts, routes, v-grouves like a dream. It's not going to replace wood but it sure comes in handy for upperscale work.
-------------------- Ron Helliar Marysville Sign 11807 51st Ave. NE Marysville, WA 98271 (360) 659-4856 Posts: 263 | From: Marysville, WA USA | Registered: Feb 1999
| IP: Logged |
![[Cool]](cool.gif)
![[Big Grin]](biggrin.gif)
Printer-friendly view of this topic