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» The Letterville BullBoard » Old Archives » Best way to join MDO??

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Author Topic: Best way to join MDO??
Peter
Resident


Member # 1062

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I have to make a 4x12 painted wood sign to go against a wall. I'm going to use 3/4 MDO and planned on joining a 4x8 with a 4x4. I was going to join the two pieces by screwing/gluing 2x6x8 wood planks on the back of the sign, across the seams. Is this a good way to do it?

The outside edge of the MDO will be covered with plastic edge capping. What should I do about the seam between the 4x8 and 4x4 - wood putty the edges? Put Gorilla glue in there? Put wood putty in there and sand it down to try and hide the seam? ( I told the customer a seam might show and she has no problem with that)

thanks!

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Pete M.
Jet Signs
Farmingdale, NY
www.jetsignsoflongisland.com

Posts: 348 | From: Farmingdale, NY | Registered: Sep 1999  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Robert Larkham
Visitor
Member # 2913

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Peter-

They make an "H" molding for this purpose. It is like a double sided channel molding which will accept both pieces of MDO. I have used it in the past and it works great. It is a tight fit and can be tricky to get on.

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Rob Larkham
Sign Techniques Inc.
Chicopee, Ma

Posts: 607 | From: Chester, Ma. | Registered: Apr 2002  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Duncan Wilkie
Resident


Member # 132

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Peter,
We usually make a "sandwich" consisting of a back panel bonded to a face panel with offset seams. Screw and glue the backer from behind. In this case I would use two layers of 11mm MDO.

We have also used biscuits and outdoor glue
Cheers.

[ April 30, 2002, 08:04 PM: Message edited by: Duncan Wilkie ]

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Duncan Wilkie
aka signdog
http://www.comsign.ca
Edmonton, Alberta, Canada

Posts: 4351 | From: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada | Registered: Nov 1998  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Steve Purcell
Visitor
Member # 1140

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Spice across the seam with 3/4" mdo, which will move at the same rate as the panel.

Rip the edges at supplementary angles to avoid a butt joint.

Glue up with West System, lightly filleted.

[Eek!] oops, I meant splice.
Filleting is a thickener for the w.s.
scp

[ May 01, 2002, 05:07 PM: Message edited by: Steve Purcell ]

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Steve Purcell
Purcell Woodcarving & Signmaking
Cape Cod, MA

**************************
Intelligent Design Is No Accident

Posts: 900 | From: Cape Cod, MA | Registered: Oct 1999  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Peter
Resident


Member # 1062

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sandwich...biscuits...spice...filleted...

I see a trend here - are you guys posting during lunch??
[Razz]
thanks fellas!

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Pete M.
Jet Signs
Farmingdale, NY
www.jetsignsoflongisland.com

Posts: 348 | From: Farmingdale, NY | Registered: Sep 1999  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Bill Preston
Deceased


Member # 1314

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Hi Peter,

FWIW, I wouldn't put the seam off-center-- it is sort of a visual clinker. Even though you would have to cut two full panels, I would use 1/2 inch good both sides MDO, and cut them to four foot by six foot. Wood putty and acrylic latex all the edges, prime and paint the panels before assembling to pressure treated 2x4s on the back.

On a fire house sign a few years ago, I fastened the panels to the back frame with round head brass screws evenly spaced, put a piece of 2x4 behind the center seam, brass screwed both panels, and just let the screws be part of the design. Sure, they tarnish, but they don't rust and streak.

Most thing about the 3/4 MDO is, I think you will wind up with a sign that is a lot heavier than it needs to be.

On the pressure treated back frame just paint the same color as the face, but without priming. Thin the paint some and let it act more like a stain.

Hope this is of some help.

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Bill Preston
Fly Creek, N.Y. USA

Posts: 943 | From: Fly Creek, N.Y. USA | Registered: Jan 2000  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
   

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