posted
An Industrial Painting Company has asked me if I could create a stencil or cut vinyl for this job. This image is to go on 2 fuel oil storage tanks. The images are to be 20' high & 40' wide......that's Humeugus.
Painting seems to be the logically way to go.
If so, how would you do the layout for the image? stencil?......pounce pattern?........lay a grid and transpose the image from measurements….. like make 1" = 12".
How about the billboard approach......and what is the billboard approach?
Would anyone do this with vinyl or is that just to crazy?
You people that do huge murals could probably shed some light on this…….right?
So…….. what would you recommend?
-------------------- John Martin Robson Pendragon Signs & Graphics Yellowknife,NT,Canada
if it's not one thing.....it's two things Posts: 261 | From: Yellowknife, NT, Canada | Registered: Aug 2000
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Do you own or can you get access to a digital camera?
Download the pic and hit Corel or PhotoShop with it. With the sketch, you can type up an agreement, contract, what ever is needed.
When you get the job, there's always the old fashioned way, use a combo of crude measuring devices such as yard sticks and tape measures and lay it out on the tank with a grease pencil. This one looks easy enough to eyeball...but that's just me.
I'd love to see the newer technical options for resolving your dilemna.
posted
Paint would be the way to go here John! Take into account the curvature of the tank. Grid method is fastest and easyest,layout DIRECTLY onto tank. An aluminum strip 1"wide,10'long held down on BOTH ends should give you the curve of the tank! Once drawn (distortion too much for projector) roller coat entire area with "Spray Lat"liquid rubber. Several thick coats should do. Hand cut with exacto knife,pull out area to be painted(creating stencil) Roller coat with color!let dry,pull off remaining rubber background. This is a good money making job(done several) because of its size and curve.
p.s. Use that aluminum strip as a guide to cut by for all your straight lines. flaws in your rounds can be fixed at end of job using a brush.
Hope this helps
-------------------- PKing is Pat King The Professor of SIGNOLOGY Posts: 3113 | From: Pompano Beach, FL. USA | Registered: Nov 1998
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posted
Pat, Spraylat? Monte Jumper, mentioned the use of it, a month or so ago, but didn't expand on the way it works. Your short discription of it makes it sound like an artists brush-on frisket, which would be expensive in the area size that you describe. Is spraylat the alternative for signmakers for larger projects, and what types of surfaces can it be used on? Jack
John, I would agree with painting it. Cut it edges with a brush and feathering . Then roll the inner parts of the copy, at least until I find out about this spraylat. You will definitely have to have a large mask to handle the blend on the logo. I would consider blending with a roller (practice) the two colors as much as I could and then even up with an airless sprayer with both of the paints. I would use 2 airless guns at the same time. (not together but one on deck). A 2 foot masking (maybe that Spraylat) around the area should work for this, with an airless. Use the correct tips and plan to move the arms quickly, as an airless really delivers the material. I think any other sprayrigs outdoors would be a mistake with a white or light background. Choose a non windy day. Jack
-------------------- "Don't change horses in midstream, unless you spot one with longer legs" bronzeo oti Jack Davis 1410 Main St Joplin, MO 64801 www.imagemakerart.com jack@imagemakerart.com Posts: 1549 | From: Joplin, MO | Registered: Mar 2000
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posted
Jack Spray Lat is normaly sprayed on clear pan faces,each color,cut and sprayed using translucent paints. By roller coating on thicker layers to be cut and peeled. The paint being applied will be heavyer,thicker,and last longer than the brush method. hope this helps
-------------------- PKing is Pat King The Professor of SIGNOLOGY Posts: 3113 | From: Pompano Beach, FL. USA | Registered: Nov 1998
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posted
This thread is soooo cool! Now this is what this place is about! Thanks to all you vets for showing us rookies the way!
-------------------- John Cordova Gitano Design Studio Albuquerque, NM Posts: 268 | From: Albuquerque, New Mexico, USA | Registered: Nov 1998
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posted
Yes, vinyl would definately be crazy. Looks like the letters are gonna come in around 6-8 feet tall. Anybody with any wall experience should be able to layout this one on site. 1 1/2 inch to the foot is a good scale, every 1/8 = an inch. Sprayalt spray mask is great stuff. A few things to remember, first mask off the area then apply the Sprayat, this will give you a nice edge when you go to peel it off. Put a couple of heavy coats on, the paint breaks this stuff down some, removal can be a chore if it's not thick enough. I don't think you can get it too thick but you can dang sure get it too thin. DO NOT use this stuff if there is ANY chance of it raining, if it rains you will truly learn the definition of "nightmare" . I don't climb so I would pass on a job like this, if I were to do it though, I'd just lay it out, use a pattern for the O and the round parts of the letters and use masking tape and roll most of it. If you aren't experienced at this type of work, my suggestion would be to search out a wall dog, sub it out and go along as a helper, you'll make a few bucks and get an education at the same time.
-------------------- George Perkins Millington,TN. goatwell@bigriver.net
"I started out with nothing and still have most of it left"
posted
i have also used spray lat. great product. if i might recommend another masking frisket... StencilRite, sometimes called tuff back or stickyback. apply to surface then kiss cut masking then roll paint.
i recently used this technique on a large moving van.
posted
I have a job very much like this on the drawing board right now John. You don't say if you intend to paint this or the paint contractor intends to,...I would assume vinyl is way out of the question as far as cost and practiacallity. That being the case something this large either needs patterns or someone with the capabilities to freehand the job on location. With a design that large I personally find patterns way too time consuming. I use a scaled layout 1"=1' broken down into a 4' grid. Once on location in the lift(luv those push button ladders & scalffolds!) I snap lines & layout the grid in light blue china markers & chalklines. A tip here,.. I tape one end of the chalkline to the surface then move to the other end and snap the line then just yank the line loose from the tank(makes it possible for one person to snap lines with less bucket movement). As I draw out each grid in order from one top corner to the other I ex the layout in each square of the grid on the layout and the surface. this does two things,...it gives me 4 four sq ft triangles which make it easier to interpret lines and shapes from the enclosed triangle rather than a square. The triangle shape lets the eye & mind triangulate the lines alot quicker than a square due to one less side of the enclosed shape. The other is that once the work has been layed out I have a reference to what parts I have and have not drawn, due to the exed out 4' square. If you make sure your sketch is to scale and the grid you layout is exact the process is rather simple for any journeyman signpainter. Lotsa luck on any "saftey manuals" ya have to write for this procedure as here in the states osha requires a documented approach in case of mishap on petrochemical facility maintenance.I guess they want something left to reference if a mishap occurrs as not much is left to refer to if something goes wrong,hehehehehehe, oh yea,no smoking, sparks or open flames from exhaust on the lift,....you get the picture?
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at $4 a sq.ft. just for the letterin..nice $3200 job.......then add in the cost of rental lift.
-------------------- joe pribish-A SIGN MINT 2811 longleaf Dr. pensacola, fl 32526 850-637-1519 BEWARE THE TRUTH.....YOU MAY NOT LIKE WHAT YOU FIND Posts: 11582 | From: pensacola, fl. usa | Registered: Nov 1998
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