posted
I am approaching the paint/stain process of a 5' X 9' Cedar sign and thought I would ring off a question to you about it.
I thought that I could put a stain on it and NO PROTECTION however there are some people that think otherwise. People have told me to use Thompsons Water Seal, Urathane and such while others have told me to NOT use Thompsons, Urathanes and such. I got this product that is made by FLOOD CO. called CWF-UV penatrating oil. Have you heard of this? It is a cedar color exterior.
To cut this short, what would you use and what would you not use.
posted
Corey, In short I would not use a facial sealer on any woods that naturally house tannin in its cells, redwoods, cedars, etc. I would use only stains for preserving color and possibly the penetrating oil type like you speak of (maybe) Oil base stains have proven themselves over the years.
Any sealers which would confine the natural tannin that seem to need the air to breath have disproved themselves. All efforts to disregard this track record, at least that I have witnessed, have failed sooner or later. Penetrating sealers (the ones that soak deep will at least not peel off with light colored air pockets behind the scaling that would occur.Oddly enough, in a contain environment like indoors, it could work forever. The way that moisture works in woods with tannin is the problem.
One question you might ask yourself.... Why do I want to seal this item? It will probably look worse in the short/long run, and also it won't help preserve its lifespan. Jack
-------------------- "Don't change horses in midstream, unless you spot one with longer legs" bronzeo oti Jack Davis 1410 Main St Joplin, MO 64801 www.imagemakerart.com jack@imagemakerart.com Posts: 1549 | From: Joplin, MO | Registered: Mar 2000
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posted
If you are looking for the background to be dark, straight linseed oil will do just fine. I made a sandblasted sign for myself in 1988, and soaked it - laid it flat, poured raw linseed oil on it and left it for a week. The background turned a very dark brown, and stayed that way ever since - no other varnishes or sealers or "protection". I have repainted the flat areas (lettering and border) maybe twice in 14 years, always with 1-shot. The sign is still up, in its current location since 1991, and still looks good. After 14 years I'll let that type of finish take the pepsi challenge anytime.
-------------------- "A wise man concerns himself with the truth, not with what people believe." - Aristotle
Cam Bortz Finest Kind Signs Pondside Iron works 256 S. Broad St. Pawcatuck, Ct. 06379 "Award winning Signs since 1988" Posts: 3051 | From: Pawcatuck,Connecticut USA | Registered: Nov 1998
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posted
We use oil stains on sandblasted backgrounds regularly. There is sleight noticable fading over the years, but the wood remails solid and stable.I usually put some additional dryers into it so I can handle it without staining my hands after a few days. I live in a small community, so I see the stuff I do regularly and have many sandbalasted signs that have had zero maintenance in the past twenty five years and still look good. I also live where redwood grows, so perhaps since it belongs here we might appreciate learning to use more indigenous materials.
-------------------- The SignShop Mendocino, California
Making the simple complicated is commonplace; making the complicated simple, awesomely simple, that's creativity. — Charles Mingus Posts: 6718 | From: Mendocino, CA. USA | Registered: Nov 1998
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So you would just use a stain and no coating of anythin on top of it? (that's how I would like to do it...stain only). Just concerned with it being unprotected. People have been telling me that I need to protect it but I have found nothing that I can trust( or that will keep me from re-finishing it yearly).
What "dryers" would you add to your stain?
I bought some stuff from Glidden Paints that is called "Cedar Oil Treatment" but am still leery on using it from my stain and protectant. If I can JUST use a stain, please tell me.
Rick Wrote:
We use oil stains on sandblasted backgrounds regularly.
I usually put some additional dryers into it so I can handle it without staining my hands after a few days.
posted
Stains are made to NOT be coated. That's the whole idea of stain vs paint. A stain soaks into the material, changing its color, whereas a paint is a film that remains on top of material. I've also had good luck with a product called Penethin, which is an oil stain for cedar. If you want a particular color, make your own stain out of oil paint and Penetrol. None of these should be topcoated with any sort of clear, as the last thing on earth you are going to want to see is a clearcoat flaking from the exposed grain of a sandblasted sign.
-------------------- "A wise man concerns himself with the truth, not with what people believe." - Aristotle
Cam Bortz Finest Kind Signs Pondside Iron works 256 S. Broad St. Pawcatuck, Ct. 06379 "Award winning Signs since 1988" Posts: 3051 | From: Pawcatuck,Connecticut USA | Registered: Nov 1998
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posted
Thanks Cam! I work with a guy who used to sell stains. He has got me paranoid by stating that stains don't ever dry and the sign'll look like shat if I don't put something over it. I try telling him (in a nice way) that the opinions on the BB I trust more than his but, had to be sure.
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