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» The Letterville BullBoard » Old Archives » Oak Cabin Sign

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Author Topic: Oak Cabin Sign
William Calame
Visitor
Member # 1740

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Hello Letterville, Have a solid oak oval to be a Cabin sign. Would like to use one shot and clear I'm by the jersey shore and it's rough on finishes. Any ideas on sealing and clear coat, what have you guys and ladies been using. Thanks again to all out there, you have always been a great help.

YOUR NEVER TO OLD TO LEARN, ROUNDBILL@AOL.COM

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WILLIAM CALAME
ROUNDBILLS SIGNS AND GRAPHIXS
SEBASTIAN FLORIDA 32958
7326741047
ROUNDBILL@MSN.COM

Posts: 12 | From: SEBASTIAN FLORIDA | Registered: Sep 2000  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
John Smith
Resident


Member # 1308

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I would invest in some POR-15 Pelucid. Keep the remainder of the can refrigerated until your next project.

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John Smith
Kings Bay Signs (Retired)
Kissimmee, Florida

Posts: 817 | From: Central Florida - The Sunshine State | Registered: Jan 2000  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Rick Sacks
Resident


Member # 379

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John, refrigeration helps? I've had a few cans harden in a well sealed can on the shelf. Seems to be good stuff, except for the short shelf life.

I have a sign in front of my shop, carved mahogany, that I used a two part automotive clear on thirteen years ago. The clear is still rock solid and the mahogany has bleached from the red it started as to a blond color. The sign is south facing and exposed to sun and rain all the time.

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The SignShop
Mendocino, California

http://www.mendosign.com

Making the simple complicated is commonplace;
making the complicated simple, awesomely simple, that's creativity. — Charles Mingus

Posts: 6718 | From: Mendocino, CA. USA | Registered: Nov 1998  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
John Smith
Resident


Member # 1308

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There are all kinds of clears on the market today. I have used POR-15 products for well over 10 years now. When I was restoring antique cars, I would saturate all the rusty places, floorpans, door bottoms, etc. with this stuff. It turns into a rockhard substance and stops all furthur oxidation. After finding out that it will have a very short shelflife when opened, I contacted the POR-15 techreps and they said to only take out what you need for the project, clean the lip well, close can tightly and refrigerate. I have a half of a half pint in the frige now and it is still good after 2 months of being opened. If this was on the shelf, it would have jelled up by now for sure. My humidity hovers around 80-90% year round and is very conducive to curing urethanes and silicons.

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John Smith
Kings Bay Signs (Retired)
Kissimmee, Florida

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Delzell
Visitor
Member # 1965

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Thanks John!

I needed to know how to store POR-15 Pelucid when I open it as warm weather is coming and I have a project to do.

And you answered a question I have been thinking about on rust. Will take care of three projects when I open the cans. Looking forward to hopefully this being the last time I have to seal the porch railings.

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Debbie

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John Smith
Resident


Member # 1308

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Debbie, this is one of the drawbacks of POR-15 products. The colors are not UV resistant. This is why the clear pelucid only came into the sign world 2 or 3 years ago. It also was not UV resistant. I have not checked the color specs lately, but, if the black is now UV resistant, that will end your painting wraught iron for many years!! Either call them or visit their website and check out the specs. The POR-15 products are designed to accept any final topcoat. The longivity of the topcoat depends on the quality of the brand you use. The POR-15 black or clear pelucid will last forever and will never rust through your topcoat. POR-15 stuff

Oh, yeah .. . . a very strong word of caution:
POR-15 products can NOT be removed from concrete or brick surfaces !!!!! Use leakproof dropclothes and GLOVES.

[ April 07, 2002, 07:24 PM: Message edited by: John Smith ]

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John Smith
Kings Bay Signs (Retired)
Kissimmee, Florida

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Delzell
Visitor
Member # 1965

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John,

Thanks for the concrete warning. I will keep that and gloves in mind.

Luckly my railings and posts are natural wood so there should be no problem. Plus I have a large shade tree that protects it from sunlight.

The rust problems I am having is on the van in spots and one spot in the bath tub. Will try the clear on them.

Thanks for the help,

Debbie

[ April 11, 2002, 08:25 PM: Message edited by: Delzell ]

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Debbie

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Joe Cieslowski
Resident


Member # 2429

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OK.....Just my opinion here...First the wood...oak..kiln dried? Goin outside perminent?.....I don't care what you put on it except polyethileen [sp?] glycol (and ya ain't gonna do that!!!!!!!)...Please let me know how it works out.....Thanks.
Joe,
Makin Chips and Havin Fun!

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Joe Cieslowski
Connecticut Woodcarvers Gallery
P.O.Box 368
East Canaan CT 06024
jcieslowski@snet.net
860-824-0883

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Del Badry
Visitor
Member # 114

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i cant believe Pierre hasnt put in his two cents worth.....

must be gone!

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Del Badry
philmdesign
Sylvan Lake, Alberta

Posts: 636 | From: Sylvan Lake, Alberta | Registered: Nov 1998  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Delzell
Visitor
Member # 1965

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Yes Del, I was wondering the same thing. He must be really busy [Big Grin]

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Debbie

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bill riedel
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Member # 607

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Hey Rick, how about the name of that clear you used. Thirteen years is good enough for me.

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Bill Riedel
Riedel Sign Co., Inc.
15 Warren Street
Little Ferry, N.J. 07643
billsr@riedelsignco.com

Posts: 2953 | From: Little Ferry, New Jersey, USA | Registered: Feb 1999  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Joe Cieslowski
Resident


Member # 2429

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Bill, What were the specifics of the job you made refrence to?
Joe,
Makin Chips and Havin Fun!

--------------------
Joe Cieslowski
Connecticut Woodcarvers Gallery
P.O.Box 368
East Canaan CT 06024
jcieslowski@snet.net
860-824-0883

Posts: 2345 | From: East Canaan CT 06024 | Registered: Nov 2001  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
   

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