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I've got a nice new client, a non-profit health clinic, and part of me design for their signage system is to have a 4' high band of color go across their facade. (they have a small red awning, so i want to "extend" the red from both sides to give the building some impact).
here's the deal. i was going to paint the brickwork red, but the building owner doesn't want his bricks painted. my next thought is to paint some PVC sheet (it wouldn't weigh much) and fasten to the wall with screws/anchors.
any other simple, low-cost solutions? (its a non-profit, so they can't afford a bigger awning). is the PVC a bad idea? Alumilite or something else? This is out of my expertise, so I appreciate suggestions.
-------------------- :: Scooter Marriner :: :: Coyote Signs :: :: Oakland, CA :: :: still a beginner :: :: Posts: 1356 | From: Oakland (and San Francisco) | Registered: Mar 2001
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Scooter, I think you have been mis-informed in regards to the 'Non-Profit' clause. It only means non profit after all persons have been paid and just judging by the vehicles some drive can tell you a little something of their salaries. Don't get all wrapped up in the word 'Non-Profit'
-------------------- HotLines Joey Madden - pinstriping since 1952 'Perfection, its what I look for and what I live for'
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You said a "mouthfull" Joey, I once dated a girl who worked for "united somethin" as a bookeeper.
She told me how much the adminastrative salaries were WOW, these people were way in to 6 digit figures!!! Just as long as there is no money left over ,then technically its "non profit", guess managment was good at "using up profit". Ha ha ha ha hah
Roger
-------------------- Roger Bailey Rapid Tac Incorporated 186 Combs Dr. Merlin Oregon 97532 Posts: 3020 | From: Merlin Oregon | Registered: Dec 1998
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Yep, I had a buddy that worked for United Non-Profit. He had a clothing allowance and hefty expense account, and handsome salary. Seems like you gotta look real good and dine in the right places to get the "right people" to donate their money.
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I have used the thin (1/8" ???)alumalite fastened with GE Silicone II.
Make sure it is the #II
Duct tape it to the wall until the adhesive dries (do it on your first install of the day, go back at the end of day and remove the tape) You can also drive flat mason nails in the grout for the panels to rest on.
Make sure you use the little pins in the corrugation to keep the seams neat.
As far as budget is concerned, non-profits are some of my highest paying clients. It is amazing how little they haggle on price when it isn't really coming out of their pocket.
-------------------- Dennis Keeley Giraphics Tucson, AZ denkel@msn.com Posts: 14 | From: Tucson, AZ | Registered: Mar 2002
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Thanks for the tips, Dennis. Anybody else have some (on-topic) suggestions?
Are there any negative consequences for the aluminum panel with adhesive? i'm sure the building owner will ask me "how do we remove it when the lease is up?"
(as for the status of non-profits, i'm aware of how much these people earn and we've arranged a budget that is in keeping with their business goals -- as i would do with any client. i'm not working for free, but i'm not gilding lillies, either.)
-------------------- :: Scooter Marriner :: :: Coyote Signs :: :: Oakland, CA :: :: still a beginner :: :: Posts: 1356 | From: Oakland (and San Francisco) | Registered: Mar 2001
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Hey Scooter, Here's what I would do... I haven't tried it with Diabond but have done it with alumilite. drill holes in the back side of the alumilite through only one side of metal, then pop rivet small corner backets from the hardware store to the back, set the brackets along the top and bottom of the panels, inset about 1" then mount a piece of angle stock or wood the same width as the brackets to the wall with tapcon screws or anchors then slap the sign up over the angle and screw into it from the side, down and up into the angle through the brackets.
It will raise the panels off the surface a bit but it will hide all the fasteners.
-------------------- Ken McTague, Concept Signs 57 Bridge St. (route 107) Salem MA 01970 1-978-745-5800 conceptsign@yahoo.com http://www.pinheadlounge.com/CaptainKen
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"A wise man once said that, or was it a wise guy?" Posts: 2425 | From: Salem, MA | Registered: Apr 1999
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Sometimes the city requires a mechanical fastner system. Not just glue. Also If you try PVC with screws, it will expand and contract. Don't try it. Use Aluminum, maybe in a track. John Arnott
-------------------- John Arnott El Cajon CA 619 596-9989 signgraphics1@aol.com http://www.signgraphics1.com Posts: 1443 | From: El Cajon CA usa | Registered: Dec 1998
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I think that I would also go with the Alumalite or Di-Bond. PVC scares me a little here. It DOES expand and contract. You may wind up with a wavy panel after a while.
-------------------- Jeff Vrstal Main Street Signs 157 E. Main Street Evansville, WI 53536 1-608-882-0322 Posts: 670 | From: Evansville, Wisconsin | Registered: Sep 2001
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How many feet on each side? If it's not too long have some awning cloth sewn into pole pocket banners. If the looks your after is to "extend" the look of the awning then exact color match of the awning cloth, with the same non-gloss texture may look good. Also the kinetic effect of ripples in the wind will all tie in to the awning, for a much lower cost then an awning.
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Scoot, The easiest method would be Dibond or aluminum over wood CCA batts that you could screw to the brick with Tapcons. You could also use a galvanize U that you can get from building supply, or galvanized metal studs. Just drill and screw. When it is removed down the road, there would be hardly any damage to the building. It is fast and makes the panel easy to install without drawing dents into the panel trying to screw it directly to the brick.
-------------------- "Don't change horses in midstream, unless you spot one with longer legs" bronzeo oti Jack Davis 1410 Main St Joplin, MO 64801 www.imagemakerart.com jack@imagemakerart.com Posts: 1549 | From: Joplin, MO | Registered: Mar 2000
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Scoot, Actually after thinking about it for a few minutes, I decided that I would probably get some of the awning material that matches what they have, and stretch onto panels (like a unpainted canvas) Much cheaper than dibond and would look well matched to the awning unless it has faded a lot. Attach with L brackets at the top and bottom. You could also break them up into 4x4s or so and space them a little to give another effect. You could even mount them off of the surface a little to give more 3D, Jack
-------------------- "Don't change horses in midstream, unless you spot one with longer legs" bronzeo oti Jack Davis 1410 Main St Joplin, MO 64801 www.imagemakerart.com jack@imagemakerart.com Posts: 1549 | From: Joplin, MO | Registered: Mar 2000
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I agree with those suggesting to use the awning fabric. You could use a Staple Stich extrusion to form panels that would be very light weight and really mimic the look of the awning at a much lower cost. you could hang an eight foot long panel with 3-4 "Z" brackets, pretty simple. GOOD LUCK!
-------------------- Tom & Sharon Giampia Creative Image Design Port Chester, NY Posts: 285 | From: Port Chester | Registered: Mar 2001
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thanks folks! i think i'll have the awning folks price and bid the install (probably cheaper than if i do it, and i'll make my $$ off the design fee without having the installation headaches).
-------------------- :: Scooter Marriner :: :: Coyote Signs :: :: Oakland, CA :: :: still a beginner :: :: Posts: 1356 | From: Oakland (and San Francisco) | Registered: Mar 2001
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posted
silicon we use it on bricks all the time great stuff had some up for years
-------------------- Ian Wilson Signmaker Retired 3 Panorama Drive Toowoomba Queensland Australia may all your troubles be little ones. The man that never make a mistake never makes anything. Posts: 656 | From: Toowoomba Queensland Australia | Registered: Nov 1998
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