posted
Well, I have done my first sandblast job on Corian...very exciting to see it work.
My findings: I need a larger compressor. I also need an abrasive that will cut better. What would you suggest is best for this...aluminum oxide or silicone carbide, or is there better?
It seems as though there is a bit of bounce in the Corian, acting like a resist, a bit.
I found that Hartco S310 (the thin one) resist did the job very well...stayed put..no need for heavier (what will sharper abrasive do to it?)
I also had a bit of trouble with my paint job (while resist was still on). Got it too thick...and was gummy...took it off while it was tacky..thought that was the best time, right?
I'm going to the city tomorrow and would like some of your suggestions before I go, if possible.
posted
Corian is basically cured urethane, often with fillers and additives. Because it has a hard surface, most blasting material bounces off. I have blasted with aluminum oxide at 100 psi and 11 cfm with some success. Pulsating helps as well as angling the tip from side to side. As a side note, we use an industrial diamond tipped hole saw to drill coriam for housing holes.
-------------------- Kent Smith Smith Sign Studio P.O.Box 2385, Estes Park, CO 80517-2385 kent@smithsignstudio.com Posts: 1025 | From: Estes Park, CO | Registered: Nov 1998
| IP: Logged |
posted
Just got thru lettering several trucks for the local corian dealer here & they suggest routing the stuff as like Kent said, most abrasives just bounce off in the blasting process.It isn't good for blasting purposes much past the frosting stage in practical blasting techniques.
-------------------- fly low...timi/NC is, Tim Barrow Barrow Art Signs Winston-Salem,NC Posts: 2224 | From: Winston-Salem,NC,USA | Registered: Nov 1998
| IP: Logged |
posted
I have a friend that does it all the time. Says it blasts well. I don't know what he is using, but I would use aluminum oxide, as it will stay sharp and will not round out like sand. It is generally the best cutter of all blast media.....He does not blast real deep ( maybe an 1/8") but he stains a shadow into the cut which gives it a real neat effect. He makes cutting boards from scraps he has left over from his fixture company and gives them to clients. I cut the patterns for hime from doubled 3mil vinyl and set my blade deeper. Works well. He puts the design on the corian and then weeds it down. He says its easier. Jack
-------------------- "Don't change horses in midstream, unless you spot one with longer legs" bronzeo oti Jack Davis 1410 Main St Joplin, MO 64801 www.imagemakerart.com jack@imagemakerart.com Posts: 1549 | From: Joplin, MO | Registered: Mar 2000
| IP: Logged |
posted
We make plaques out of this all the time. I use regular silica sand and Hartco mask. We cut anywhere from 1/8" to 1/4" depending on the size of the text.
What kind of paint did use Bernice? We use Gripflex which is a laquer. Waiting till the paint is completly dry helps.
We use a clearcoat over the entire surface when it's finished to avoid needing to polish it every couple of years.
The stuff is great to work with sands easily and cuts well with the right tools. We slice the sheets on the table saw using a 80 tooth blade, router coves etc. on the edge, and cut other detail work with a jigsaw using double edge blades from Bosch.
-------------------- Dennis Veenema The Sign Shop Dresden, Ont. but what do I know anyway...I've only been doing this for 20 years! Posts: 368 | From: Dresden, Ont.,CAN | Registered: May 1999
| IP: Logged |