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» The Letterville BullBoard » Old Archives » Your recommendations for masking on and for enamels??

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Author Topic: Your recommendations for masking on and for enamels??
Jack Davis
Visitor
Member # 1408

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I have used 3M and Mactac cuttable mask films. I find them both too aggressive for a slick surface, and the 3M leaves a reaction with OS enamels and makes a dull appearance that needs polishing. It seems to make a lot of difference on how rough or slick your surface is. Info on any types of masking supplies that you like, would be appreciated. Thanks for your replys, Jack

[ March 30, 2002, 07:26 AM: Message edited by: bronzeo ]

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"Don't change horses in midstream, unless you spot one with longer legs" bronzeo oti
Jack Davis
1410 Main St
Joplin, MO 64801
www.imagemakerart.com
jack@imagemakerart.com

Posts: 1549 | From: Joplin, MO | Registered: Mar 2000  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Rick Sacks
Resident


Member # 379

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Jack, we use the CalMask, but it also has a very agressive adhesive. The few that have a lesser adhesive seem to leak more. We have this paint curing lamp and it heats the surface and we find the mask comes off real easily when its warmed.

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The SignShop
Mendocino, California

http://www.mendosign.com

Making the simple complicated is commonplace;
making the complicated simple, awesomely simple, that's creativity. — Charles Mingus

Posts: 6718 | From: Mendocino, CA. USA | Registered: Nov 1998  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Jeffrey Vrstal
Visitor
Member # 2271

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I usually use Gerber Mask. They have a #1 and #2 tack, # one being less aggresive (I think). Anyway, I find that to be too much sometimes. I also have seen the problem that it causes on the paint surface... I think that is because the paint has not dried "enough". It would take quite a while for some of those paints to fully cure. Seems that when I try to rush a little is when I experience that situation. I have noticed that it seems to disappear a little, and usually all the way if you clear the sign.

Warmer temps seem to lessen the tack of the mask material. At least it seems that way on vehicles for me. I like to try to get it off without the darn thing ripping or falling back into the fresh paint.

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Jeff Vrstal
Main Street Signs
157 E. Main Street
Evansville, WI 53536
1-608-882-0322

Posts: 670 | From: Evansville, Wisconsin | Registered: Sep 2001  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Brad Ferguson
Resident


Member # 33

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This could simply be tape tracks from the paint not being fully cured, as mentioned. I bet if you use the hardener for One Shot it won't happen as much. The hardener speeds up the curing.

Brad in Kansas

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Brad Ferguson
See More Signs
7931 Wornall Rd
Kansas City, MO 64111
signbrad@yahoo.com
816-739-7316

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Tim Barrow
Deceased


Member # 576

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I have to agree with Brad here,..If you are getting impressions in the paint it hasn't fully cured.It may be dry to the touch but this only means the paint is dry on top and still green underneath. Unless you exercise some patience this problem will never go away. Another solution may be patterns and hand lettering ,but this will leave an even nastier impression if you don't exercise enough patience to let the paint fully cure on top and underneath the dry upper layer.I tell my customers ,...High Quality,...Low Price,...Speedy Delivery,...you can only pick 2 as you ultimately will have to scarifice one of the 3 to get the other 2. However I also refuse to offer a speedy delivery at a premium price & produce a substandard product.

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fly low...timi/NC is,
Tim Barrow
Barrow Art Signs
Winston-Salem,NC

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captain ken
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Member # 742

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I just bought a roll of what I consider the best mask yet, I used em all in the past but the Oracal 813 spray mask is awesome it has a good tack and itpeels like a breeze, the added bonus is that its transparent tinted blue which makes it easy to line up and even hand cut on the surface, very versitile. If I think a mask is gonna have too much tack I lightly go over the surface with a white pounce pad the light layer of baby powder makes it peel real easy.

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Ken McTague,
Concept Signs
57 Bridge St. (route 107)
Salem MA 01970
1-978-745-5800
conceptsign@yahoo.com
http://www.pinheadlounge.com/CaptainKen

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"A wise man once said that, or was it a wise guy?"

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Monte Jumper
Resident


Member # 1106

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Anytime we mask anything here we use Tranferite masking and hand cut the stencil.I never use gerbermask or any of the others I have found them all to be doomed to failure.

Once bit twice shy!

Besides if you use the computer to make the pattern you can hand cut nearly as fast as most plotters and your not standing there watching the plotter while you wait.

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"Werks fer me...it'll werk fer you"

Monte Jumper
SIGNLanguage/Norman.Okla.
jumpers@itlnet.net

Posts: 3185 | From: Norman,Okla.U.S.A. | Registered: Sep 1999  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
roger bailey
Merchant


Member # 556

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Mix more hardner in the paint.

Just my 2 cents, 5% won't do it.

Roger [Roll Eyes]

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Roger Bailey
Rapid Tac Incorporated
186 Combs Dr.
Merlin Oregon
97532

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Jack Davis
Visitor
Member # 1408

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Roger, Why do you think that? 2% makes a lot of difference in curing. After a lot of shoots, 10% feels like a real max, and maybe a manufacturer preference at 30.00+ per quart.

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"Don't change horses in midstream, unless you spot one with longer legs" bronzeo oti
Jack Davis
1410 Main St
Joplin, MO 64801
www.imagemakerart.com
jack@imagemakerart.com

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old paint
Visitor
Member # 549

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try some automotive a/e with hardner for backgrounds....this works awesome, is longer lasting, higher gloss and drys (in maui) in a couple of hours...spray it, 2 costs and your done...

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joe pribish-A SIGN MINT
2811 longleaf Dr.
pensacola, fl 32526
850-637-1519
BEWARE THE TRUTH.....YOU MAY NOT LIKE WHAT YOU FIND

Posts: 11582 | From: pensacola, fl. usa | Registered: Nov 1998  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
roger bailey
Merchant


Member # 556

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I was paintin cars (and lots a other things)when these systems came out,that was a lot of paint jobs and years ago.

I used more then 10%, no ill effects.
Sometimes you have to stop lookin at the cost of materials, and pay more attention to the amount of lost time and re-do costs when things happen (like what happened to you)

How much labor time and "new" materials will this whole thing cost you ??

Roger [Confused]

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Roger Bailey
Rapid Tac Incorporated
186 Combs Dr.
Merlin Oregon
97532

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Jack Davis
Visitor
Member # 1408

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Roger, Using hardener to its limits, has proven faulty in a lot of cases, and much more often than when we use it conservatively. Your recommendation for use is at its highest recommended mix. If you are referring to the problems that I have in the other post "painting woes",,,, it is not a drying problem, or a curing problem (at least time related). It is just poor adhesion, and maybe one brought on by the hardener itself. That is one reason I have cut back on the use of it. Something is wrong, I know that, but more hardener is not going to fix it. I don't even think it is at all time related, as the problems occur 6 months later also.

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"Don't change horses in midstream, unless you spot one with longer legs" bronzeo oti
Jack Davis
1410 Main St
Joplin, MO 64801
www.imagemakerart.com
jack@imagemakerart.com

Posts: 1549 | From: Joplin, MO | Registered: Mar 2000  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
   

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