posted
I’m still not getting the quality that I’m looking for.
I’m in the process of completing 3 signs, all with a common theme. They are painted 5/8” MDO g2. I got one fellow to cut all the sign panel shapes, router, fill edges & sand. Then I took the panels to a body shop for painting. The surfaces are fine, but the edges are still showing through some………..like the grain and little pits.......this is not acceptable.
I’m looking for a panel with clean surface, edges and backing…………..one continuous smooth clean surface………………What’s the secret here?
Does it require more sanding, more care in filling, more paint………….
I’m a little ****ed off here…….cause I paid top dollar for this work…………but it lacks quality...and I'm not sure who's responsible for the lack of it...........in the end I am of course.
Any ideas what I should be doing from here on in?
I yearn to be able to deliver exceptional quality………….I know it can be achieved………I just need to know how.
all comments are welcome.......flamers need not apply.
-------------------- John Martin Robson Pendragon Signs & Graphics Yellowknife,NT,Canada
if it's not one thing.....it's two things Posts: 261 | From: Yellowknife, NT, Canada | Registered: Aug 2000
| IP: Logged |
posted
I personally do not use any plywood anymore. The quality is gone as far as im concerned. for bigger signs..I build a frame..usually use treated 2x4 or 2x2. then make faces on baked enamel/aluminum. I let the customer paint the frame if he wants to save some money.. I like to leave the wood in the weather for a while before painting this is easier and faster then doing all the steps to plywood. I used to seal edges with epoxy..2 coats..and sand smooth then prime and 2 top coats enamel..thats 2-3 days ta watch paint dry...then...a few years later the wood blisters because ther'e voids and they pop... a quick fix for your present situation...get some edge cap and glue it on. good luck... Body shop type paint is no good for use on wood..it will not last recommend Jay Cooke primer..then oneshot lettering/not bulletin enamel for coatout lettering enamel is better...color lasts longer....add some hardener to add life
[ March 04, 2002, 02:41 PM: Message edited by: Michael Boone ]
posted
Hiya John, I just went thru the same problem. The MDO looked good when finished but it wasn't great. My solution was to sub out the background panel to a cabinet maker. I had him laminate the front & edges of the substrate. The back of the sign will just be painted. This is an interior sign tho. I would probably go with Mike's suggestion on the aluminum. If you want to get real fancy, you can bend the aluminum around the edges of the wood frame. Havin' fun, Checkers
-------------------- a.k.a. Brian Born www.CheckersCustom.com Harrisburg, Pa Work Smart, Play Hard Posts: 3775 | From: Harrisburg, Pa. U.S.A. | Registered: Nov 1998
| IP: Logged |
posted
I am with Micheal here....why use plywood??
All my panel signs are made with 2mm aluminium we bend all sides 25mm to give rigidity. In the main its Alcan Signicolor. Comes in standard factory colours or we laminate with vinyl, or powdercoat, then apply lettering or handpaint. Always smooth doesn't warp rot etc and, works fast, dead easy to erect without showing screwheads.
posted
I use aluma core and frame it with pvc and use pvc post
-------------------- Jimmy Chatham Chatham Signs 468 stark st Commerce, Ga 30529 Posts: 1766 | From: Commerce, GA, USA | Registered: Nov 1998
| IP: Logged |
The signs are interior ( menu boards)……….they are irregular in shape, many jogs and cuts. I used what I’m most familiar with, I wanted something with depth, aluminium has none, and it still would require the same work………….cutting, edge finishing, & painting.
Perhaps I could of used plastic produces like Sintra or Intecel. Maybe HDU, which I’ve never tried.......but it is all hindsight now.
I guess I’m not hearing what I want to hear.
HOW DO YOU ACHIEVE QUALITY EDGES ON MDO BOARDS THAT ARE SMOOTH JUST LIKE THE FINISHED SURFACE ITSELF…………ESPECIALLY WITH ROUNDED OR IRREGULAR SHAPES & CUTS.
THIS MUCH I DO KNOW…………ROUTER, FILL, SAND, PRIME, SAND AND PAINT………….BUT IM STILL NOT ACHIEVING THE QUALITY THAT I OR THE INDUSTRY DEMANDS
HOW IS THIS BEST ACHIEVED!
I’m not shouting…………I’m just speaking up.
[ March 04, 2002, 04:53 PM: Message edited by: John Martin Robson ]
-------------------- John Martin Robson Pendragon Signs & Graphics Yellowknife,NT,Canada
if it's not one thing.....it's two things Posts: 261 | From: Yellowknife, NT, Canada | Registered: Aug 2000
| IP: Logged |
posted
John...Based on what you said...That the edges still showed some pitting and some "grain"..I would say that a second filling/sanding/re-priming/re-sanding ..after the original priming...was what was required. The problem you may have had was in using a woodworker to do the cutting sanding and filling and then a bodyshop to do the painting. Personally, I would have had the woodworker do the cutting/routing and then let the bodyshop do the edge finishing...especially since these are interior signs. The bodyshop would have made the edges as smooth as the surfaces..THAT is what they do. Woodworkers don't normally require the type of quality finish you wanted...they LIKE to see the "grain"!!!! LOL
I can achieve a finish on MDO and it's edges that is the equal of any automobile finish. However, I have found that this is not always necessary, especially on exterior signs that will be viewed from even 10 ft away. Of course interior menu boards do require a more perfect finish.
Here is some stuff that I sprayed..The edges are as smooth and shiny as the surface.. These were Intecell letters so the edges started out as pitted as MDO....It just takes time and care. Hopefully the reflection of the grass shows up OK on the second pic.
[ March 04, 2002, 05:17 PM: Message edited by: Dave Grundy ]
-------------------- Dave Grundy retired in Chelem,Yucatan,Mexico/Hensall,Ontario,Canada 1-519-262-3651 Canada 011-52-1-999-102-2923 Mexico cell 1-226-785-8957 Canada/Mexico home
posted
Sometimes the quality you are looking for can not be bought easily. You might have to do some 1st hand quality control to get what you want. Otherwise, I'd save the time and money and use the aluminum or PVC.
posted
John, If you are using it inside, I'm sure that you could get good results with the high build primers that are made for HDU. They are easy to sand and will eventually leave you with a smooth surface with 3 or 4 coats on those edges. Don't use the Jay Cooke stuff, as it don't sand worth a damn along with other problems. Use a brush and your bare fingers for application. It might even work for outdoor application, but I would be afraid of the moisture soaking through into the plywood.
-------------------- "Don't change horses in midstream, unless you spot one with longer legs" bronzeo oti Jack Davis 1410 Main St Joplin, MO 64801 www.imagemakerart.com jack@imagemakerart.com Posts: 1549 | From: Joplin, MO | Registered: Mar 2000
| IP: Logged |
posted
I'll second Grundy's opinion here, the woodworker was NOT the one to have do the finishing. If you make it clear to the body shop guys just what you are after in a finished product I'm sure you will get it. If you bring them something that is supposedly ready to spray they're just gonna pull the trigger.
-------------------- George Perkins Millington,TN. goatwell@bigriver.net
"I started out with nothing and still have most of it left"
![[Wink]](wink.gif)
![[Roll Eyes]](rolleyes.gif)
Printer-friendly view of this topic