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» The Letterville BullBoard » Old Archives » Gold on iron?

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Author Topic: Gold on iron?
stein Saether
Resident


Member # 430

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Is there any other way to make a gild
on iron then to clear it with size??
Just wonder.
Stein Sæther
Gullskilt AS
www.gullskilt.com

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Stein Saether
GullSkilt AS
Hollaseterveien 356
7200 Kyrksæterøra
Norway
EUR

Posts: 1204 | From: Trondheim Norway | Registered: Nov 1998  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Bruce Bowers
Resident


Member # 892

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Steins...

I would prime with Sil-a-thane and then paint with lettering enamel. When the paint is just about dry I would gild then. I have done this before with great success. OK, not on iron but other things... [Wink]

Have a great one!

--------------------
Bruce Bowers

DrCAS Custom Lettering and Design
Saint Cloud, Minnesota


"Things work out best for the people who make the best of the way things work out." - Art Linkletter

Posts: 6469 | From: Saint Cloud, Minnesota | Registered: Jun 1999  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Steve Purcell
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Member # 1140

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I've had to gild iron, it will fail eventually.

Just prep, prime & paint the best that you can, and it should last awhile. How long depends on your region.

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Steve Purcell
Purcell Woodcarving & Signmaking
Cape Cod, MA

Instagram: Purcell Woodcraft

**************************
Intelligent Design Is No Accident

Posts: 902 | From: Cape Cod, MA | Registered: Oct 1999  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
David Fisher
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Member # 107

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Steins,
I made a freestanding candelabra about 8 years ago and did a distrssed gild on the feet using schlag gold (sp?)
I don't know if this will suit your purposes but the method I used was as follows, bear in mind that it was a distressed gild (faux aged) so if the technique is of any use to you then just remove the steps where the aging is added. The piece is also kept indoors so that would obviously have a pronounced effect on the life expectancy.
After the piece was formed, I gave it a thorough run over with the angle grinder fitted with a sanding disk to remove all burrs, surface rust, mig wire tailings etc.
I then sprayed it with "pot belly black", the paint used for coating slow combustion stoves.
The legs were sized and the gild applied much earlier than usual.
Once the gild was applied I let it tack off for a while longer and then dragged my thumb over it to form cracks and other imperfections.
Another coat of pot belly black was applied which then had a turpentine soaked rag pulled over it, leaving the imperfections with a glaze of black through them.

That was some time ago now and the gild is still quite bright even for schlag, I would imagine real gold would still be just as lustrous as the day it was applied or close to it.
No signs of rust or other deterioration as yet.
HTH,
David

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David Fisher
D.A. & P.M. Fisher Services
Brisbane Australia
da_pmf@yahoo.com
Trying out a new tag:
"Parents are the bones on which children cut their teeth
Peter Ustinov

Posts: 1450 | From: Brisbane Queensland Australia | Registered: Nov 1998  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Rick Sacks
Resident


Member # 379

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Steins, I have encountered problems with electrolysis from the dis-similar metals.To overcome this it is necessary to build an insulator between them. The easiest way is with several coats of paint before the gold size goes on. Should last a long time. Ciao

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The SignShop
Mendocino, California

http://www.mendosign.com

Making the simple complicated is commonplace;
making the complicated simple, awesomely simple, that's creativity. — Charles Mingus

Posts: 6876 | From: Mendocino, CA. USA | Registered: Nov 1998  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Jon Aston
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Member # 1725

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Dumb Question:

Wouldn't SignGold be a good alternative for this application?

--------------------
Jon Aston
MARKETING PARTNERS
"Strategy, Marketing and Business Development"
Tel 705-719-9209

Posts: 1724 | From: Barrie, ON, CANADA | Registered: Sep 2000  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
   

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