posted
Suelynn,its not turpentine in Tack Rags,its a resinated varnish and an anti static additive,and if you can find the right kind of varnish its difficult to get the ratio right so that you don't wind up with A)hard flat sheet of cheesecloth B) one thats too sticky and makes a grand crappin mess by actually sticking in places to the surface you wipe and breaking off into bits you have to sand off later C) one that doesn't work at all b/c it isnt sticky enuff . Also remember that even if you're rolling latex you may use some type varnish thats incompatible with that or with oil base paints,urethanes,whatever then you have a grand sized mess to deal with after the fact,not to mention what a pain its gonna be trying to store those things in a "clean way" so they don't weld themselves together,sit there and collect dust while you're not using em,stuff like that. Any commercial paint supplier (house paints) should be able to order you the bigger size and at prob $15(us) or so a box its cheaper in the long run that way.
-------------------- Gavin Chachere Plotter in the garage,New Orleans La.
"Sgts Shugart and Gordon again request permission to rope down to crash site two" Posts: 1223 | From: new orleans.la. | Registered: Mar 2000
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I would shy away from linseed oil on a cloth because any trace of it left behind might mess up the drying time of whatever oil-based primer you would use, and as far as water-based primer is concerned, it might not stick at all.
Maybe one of Roger's products sprayed on a paper towel would work better, or compressed air through one of those trigger gadgets.
-------------------- Bill Preston Fly Creek, N.Y. USA Posts: 943 | From: Fly Creek, N.Y. USA | Registered: Jan 2000
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posted
This may be the wrong post for me to answer but I can't think of one reason why anyone would want to make their own tack rags and actually use them in the sign business. I truly understand painting aspects and find that Gavin, a person who deals with paints everyday of his life, who BTW always gives 110% of his answers correctly to the questions on the BB. His answer is more like what exactly a tack rag is made with, and why you should be buying them rather then trying to save a few pennies while opening up a can of worms in the way of contaminents that can totally ruin your substrate to begin with. Signmakers should be using sign supplies from suppliers who deal with what it is we all use.
With the influx of new additions from companies like Rapid-Tac who BTW sell their products to body shops where tack rags were once used are now using Rapid-Prep and chemical-free paper towels. But then again these body shops also have spray booths that are also contaminent free.
HAVE A NICE DAY
-------------------- HotLines Joey Madden - pinstriping since 1952 'Perfection, its what I look for and what I live for'
posted
Thanks for the informative reply Gavin. Sounds like I better just stick to what I've been buying.
Roger and Joey,
It really isn't the expense that is a factor in my question. The hardware store in my town doesn't even carry tack cloths, so I have to stock up whenI go to the city. I have only been able to find the small ones, so I end up wadding two or three together.
I thought I had read something once about keeping homemade ones in a can with some sort of mixture in it. Then you could sort of keep "refreshing" the cheescloth. I just thought it sounded convenient.
I'm not working with a painted finish right now, I'm filling and sanding edges of raw mdo. I don't think a water-based product would remove all the dust that I need to remove before priming.
Thanks for the input guys,
Sue
-------------------- "It is never too late to be what you might have been." -George Eliot
Suelynn Sedor Sedor Signs Carnduff, SK Canada Posts: 2863 | From: Carnduff, SK Canada | Registered: Nov 1998
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posted
The "tac rags" I always used(or have seen) were folded up at least three times, into a "hand size shape". spose you could re fold to a larger shape, how bigs yer hand?? He he he
I would always un-fold when they were pluged-up, turn in side out, re-fold to expose fresh portion
I'm thinkin 10 or 15 cents apeice, maybe online from "body shop suppliers".
Roger
-------------------- Roger Bailey Rapid Tac Incorporated 186 Combs Dr. Merlin Oregon 97532 Posts: 3020 | From: Merlin Oregon | Registered: Dec 1998
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posted
Sue, there sure are alot of self professed experts floating around here. Many woodworkers make their own but it seems to be too much trouble for the cost to me, but if you really are interested :
The Home Cabinetmaker by Monte Burch:
To make your own tack cloth, dampen a cloth with water and wring out all excess water, then pour a bit of turpentine on it and wad and roll the cloth around to assure that it is well coated with turpentine. Wring out any excess. Then pour a bit of varnish on the rag and place the rag in a plastic bag. Knead the rag in the bag until the entire rag is well soaked and even yellow brown all over. Now place in a glass jar with a lid on it and allow it to "age" for about a day.
To use the tack cloth, merely wipe it lightly over the wood surface to remove all dust, dirt, sanding dust, and debris just before the application of the finish. Don't handle the wood with your bare hands once this operation has been done or you will leave fingerprints that can prevent a good finish. Keep turning the tack cloth to provide a clean surface, continually picking up material. Don't allow the tack cloth to rest on the surface or you will leave a spot that won't take finish well.
-------------------- Jim Upchurch Artworks Olympia WA Posts: 797 | From: Olympia, WA | Registered: Nov 1998
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posted
At one time I used to build certain items made from hardwoods. I would make my own tac rags using the above method. It works great because i used the exact same products to make a tac rag that i used to make a finish. Hence, no contamination. But, i cannot make a tac rag from acetone and vinyl. So, i use rogers stuff.
-------------------- Leaper of Tall buildings.. If you find my posts divisive or otherwise snarky please ignore them. If you do not know how then PM me about it and I will demonstrate. Posts: 5274 | From: Im a nowhere man | Registered: Jul 2001
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posted
Welllll, everytime i've ever met a self proclaimed expert whose been more than willingto tell me what exactly it is i don't know they've done stuff like given half an answer then quoted someone else after the question had been answered in an effort to make themselves not look like they didnt get in over their head in the first place. When you see me post on this or any other forum you'll notice i never post or add anything in unless i have a definitive answer,not a scientific wild ass guess (SWAG).What a lot of people may not know is that i deal with all day,every day.....so when a problem or a question that i reply too pops up,that one post i may have already heard that very complaint or question 100x's b4 and probably even duplicated it in an effort to nail down a larger problem. I do not jump into every post like some and proclaim what it is i know,i help when i can,if i can. If i don't know or i cant find out,i dont answer.
-------------------- Gavin Chachere Plotter in the garage,New Orleans La.
"Sgts Shugart and Gordon again request permission to rope down to crash site two" Posts: 1223 | From: new orleans.la. | Registered: Mar 2000
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posted
Gavin, you said turpentine wasn't used in making tack rags. I respectfully disagree as does the author of numerous woodworking books. If expertise and facts are your interest then I sure you will appreciate the information. Why get defensive ?
-------------------- Jim Upchurch Artworks Olympia WA Posts: 797 | From: Olympia, WA | Registered: Nov 1998
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posted
i've used application tape that they give away free at the conventions....3" wide cut4-5" long. Easy to store, convienient disposal, no residue left, FREE! How about those lint removal gadgets? Just a thought. Joe, Makin Chips and Havin Fun!
-------------------- Joe Cieslowski Connecticut Woodcarvers Gallery P.O.Box 368 East Canaan CT 06024 jcieslowski@snet.net 860-824-0883 Posts: 2345 | From: East Canaan CT 06024 | Registered: Nov 2001
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posted
Thanks again for the replies guys. I think I'd better stick with the store-bought model!! I can just see me leaving fingerprints all over everything! Thanks for finding that article for me though, Jim. I was beginning to think I had dreamt it up!
I wish I could find them for 10 or 15 cents each. I pay about 3.00 here, $2.00 each if you buy them in bulk. Not exactly free! I think I'll talk to my auto body friend.
Have a great day.
Sue
-------------------- "It is never too late to be what you might have been." -George Eliot
Suelynn Sedor Sedor Signs Carnduff, SK Canada Posts: 2863 | From: Carnduff, SK Canada | Registered: Nov 1998
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posted
Well for what it's worth I'll add my "2 cents". We never use tack rags for many of the above listed reasons. There is a great risk in my opinion that the material in the rag will not be compatiable with the finish. For HDU (signfoam) I prefer 120-140 psi of shop air that is clean and filtered. Wear a dust mask! I'm not convinced that any tack rag will get all the dust off of HDU.
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