If you haven't seen it, try http://216.147.13.160/drquill/p4.html and know the Ford emblems will come off, the tag stays and there will be no outline, unless I can locate my dagger and flourish the edges with a lil pinstriping and feathers or sompn. I love this job!

It was suggested I post here to gain knowledge about a technique i know absolutely nothing about.

Rumor has it, that an acrylic/laquer technique will give me these benefits:

Dries in minutes
Lasts longer
More vibrant
Blends smoother
Easier to apply
Is the choice for those who do this for food and/or money

That would mean a quick turn around resulting in more money in less time! Woo hoo!

I've practiced this mural from scratch over and over, so I could cut down my steps in the final execution. I have this fantasy I can hit the shop, slap the van around with some of Roger's Rapid Prep, and come out on the inside of 24 hours and be, at the very least, ready to clear...if not totally done.

More consideration, the van was tapped on the back end enough to start a crack in the paint comin off the lip over the recessed tag area, I don't want to put sompn on there that will make this worse. (No, it was on there when i got it)

I heard that a good coat of clear to begin with helps the paint blend better. Having done silk screen work, should I put what's known as a "white underlay" down as well, for more vibrancy? The van is a hunter green, and I don't want a muddied version here.

More Questions:

What do I need?

Where do I get it? (I prefer to utilize the supplier's page to help support Letterheads if possible)

...make sure I don't do... (fill in the blank, please!)

...make sure i do ... (blank here too, hehehe)

What are the compatability issues i need to be aware of?

Preferred drying/curing times with what combined what?

(Am I making any sense? If I understood most of what I was asking I wouldn't be here LOL.)

Can I use Pelucid to clear with, or will it depend on what? (I won two half pint cans at Pat King's Soup Splat and if it'll work, I'd love to give it a go!) I'll need some authentic tips and tricks if I use it.

What's the best to clear with, as far as fading and what not are considered?

I had originally thought I could whip this out with 1-Shot (been a quill operator for 28 yrs in May of this year, so I'm used to it, mixing, etc.)

But if I can learn sompn that will help me get there faster and look better when I do, by all means, don't be shy!

Thank you for all your time, even if you simply determine I'm nuts and click this away hehehe. But especially for any help, advice and URLS's I could read to understand this better before I have to order some of Roger's Graffiti (sp?) remover.

[ February 11, 2002: Message edited by: Joe Rees ]

Acrylic lacquers for all colors (for all the reason's you mentioned above), with an acrylic urethane clear. Ok, I know for sure there are tons more types of modern clears out there. I honestly don't think it makes a bit of difference. The lacquers you're going to use it over are impervious to any kind of reaction with even the hotest clears. But the lacquers are a joy to work with. I could get every color needed with 5 colors (black, white, blue, red & yellow) by using them transparently like inks or watercolor. Lots of thinner to keep them flowing, and adjust the film thickness by a combination of nozzle pattern, air pressure and closeness to your work.

The trick is choosing a blue, yellow and red that are as pure as possible without any white or black in them - totally transparent, like mixing tints. In fact, mixing tints may be just the ticket. The black and white will be opaque, but you can even get lots of shading with them by using them thinned out. Cool thing about lacquers is they don't care how thin they are. They still dry as rapidly as the thinner will flash off.

I would spray a base layer of white like you mentioned. Then switch to black to shade in all details as if it were a black and white photograph. Then start with the 3 primary colors, building them up transparently - everywhere there's green you'll need a layer of blue and yellow. Anywhere red goes over yellow will turn orange. You know, basic color wheel stuff. When all colors are built up to their right tones, a final round of white highlights.

Everything will look very dull and mottled till the clear goes on - that's the magic, when all the layering becomes evident and it seems you can look down through deep layers of colors. Now you're cookin'!

Like I say, there's other system's today, I just don't have any experience with them. I know this one rocks and it's very quick working, never waiting on things to dry, and very forgiving of mistakes. If your airbrush spits out a goober, you can finger sand it out in 5 minutes and blend in an invisible patch.

also to prep before painting- clean with soap and water first, then a wax and grease remover. sand with 1000 grit wetsand, or really good with a grey schtchbrite pad. The surface has to be dull like satin or something. then clean again with wax and grease remover, or if the tail gate is plastic, use an alcohol cleaner so there wont be any static cling for dust bunnies.

Its best to spray a coat of clear laquer (if your using laquer colors) over the sandscratches so the overspray from the colors dont show the scratches, also use a tack rag a lot if you see dry overspray building up. I think its tough to find laquer colors anymore, with all the epa rules, if you cant, ureathane base colors are the next best thing, and there is intermix clear that is just like clear laquer. You can also use spray can clear laquer for that.

Yea, i also like using black and white first to do almost all the work, then add translucent colors, then white again for highlights. Also, i like using a little slower drying thinner than what the temperature is, makes the paint flow better, doesnt dry too fast, and wont clog up on the tip nearly as much. Every now and then, put some more clear laquer/intermix clear on just so it all doesnt get too dry, fuzzy or rough. Be carefull not to spray it on too heavy or it can move the colors some. you will also see how much depth its gettin when puttin the clear on, sort of magical to see the artwork sort of come to life.

After your happy with how it looks, put enough clear laquer/intermix on to protect it and to be able to scuff it so you can apply a clear that has hardner in it, I use acrylic ureathane. If I was you, I'd leave that part up to a pro if you can. Theres many more factors involved then, including the issue of using isocinates, harmfull stuff!!!!

Once you jump in to it, you will calm down and it will be like childs play.

As mentioned above, don't spray too wet, and get a "mid temp or slow' thinner (maybe even some retarder)to keep from having a bunch of dry overspray.

You will also like the finish when using the urethane clear(alot like sprayin lacquer)but you don't have to sand it and rub-it-out after yer done.

And yes, clean before and after sanding the van with Rapid Prep (non petrolium product) no need for soap and water/alcohol.

I would ;
1-clean with R.Prep
2-sand with "wet or dry #600 grit",clean again (right before paintin)with R.Prep
3- if you use the "tinting colors" be sure the paint store puts in the dryers/bonding agents.

Have fun(you will once you get started and get the feel)!!

[ February 12, 2002: Message edited by: warpaint ]

Joe Rees, the suggestion to post here was by one who said the same as you, "This technique is 20 years old, yet is the bomb if you can get the paint anymore. If nothing else, someone who knows about the newer stuff can steer you in a more reliable and expedient diection/fashion."

I too was shocked that newer techniques and materials were not detailed out, but it's plain to see the lacquer gig was loved by many, for it to be the favorite after 20 years of newer technology...wow! that says sompn!.

George, I plan on taping off the van with the hatch up and then across the top, so there is less tape lines to work up to. Basically from the body line under the windshield wiper down, or would you suggest taping off the window, seal and wiper, as well and just clearing out the whole hatch? The pin striping around the edge, I see just inside the edge of the mural with a little flourish to direct the eye if needed to balance the visual travel. I've been secretly working on a pinstripe version of my eagle logo to work into the bottom right or top right corner, ever so discreetly, as a signature/logo thingie...<sheepish grin>

(insert maniacle laboratory laugh here)

Rick, I never practiced this with white/black then translucent colors. I did see it in a step-by-step for marble-like painting. It sounds fun though!

Michael, what are ya trying to say here, wear a respirator? hehehe. No problems. I have been spraying acrylic paint through my airbrush and made the mistake of not wearing my mask, once. After another stint of pnumonia, I learned that one well. In some cases it's not necessay to take the scenic route to understanding! Thank you for caring!

Old Paint, after reading all the posts, I'm wondering if I shouldn't keep searching through information for a more innovative way to get this done. I'd love to hear more about the House of Kolor products. Or anything else that is less toxic to use...but can blend the color so I can get a decent feel of water in my mural. I do appreciate the suggestion to use the retarder, it could save my airbrush from a horrible death!

Roger, don't worry, I used your Rapid Prep before lettering the sides of the van. And I will be happy to use it for the rear panel as well. I'm curious, I'm leaning toward using the Pelucid as the clear, Pierre told me it stops steel bits, so I'm thinking, from fiber glass to steel proof, what more can a safety conscience gal want? He made it sound so easy to apply.

I did use some angel hair to sand it out with though. I really need to hit the hardware store here, lost all my sand paper in the move too, hehehe. I'm guessing here that wet sanding gives a better tooth for the paint? with a smoother surface than angel hair will? maybe without the visible circular scratches the angel hair leaves? (angel hair = sos pad, sans the soap)

Hay David Fisher, love the lacquerholic tag there! It's your ute that caused me to wonder about the correct finish to strive for. I loved it! I don't get to see too many projects like this here, as most are executed in another medium...ahem. I've got these boring, socially aceptable, letters down the side of the van and it looks so plain. Plus the copy insists that I do Awnings, Banners and Walls. I'm merely trying to take the bread and butter work and swing it around so they know I prefer to do what you see on the back end.

David Thompson, I may laugh one day in the future, reading all this again, but I really am not familiar with all these terms. Urethane, laquer, temps, etc. I feel like the guy in the movie Blast from the Past, when he saw a color television...not a tube model hehehe. I'm still fascinated by the airbrush...I only picked it out/up a couple of years ago. I haven't practiced as much as I should have. So I'm just drawing blanks here with alot of the advice...kinda like learnin how to make biscuits, what does the dough feel like when the ingredients are measured correctly...hehehe.

So, I saw the term water based...is this an option with my situation? what would this entail, and would it pelucidable?

Thank you ALL soooo much for helping me to understand this a bit more. I am very grateful for everybody's patience. So far, no one has made me feel stupid! That is a wonderful encouragement for me. ...yup, Old Paint, I know it's easy for you, it's my van on the line, phwhahaha!

I'll be checking back in tonight to see what else I can learn. Joe Rees, this is exactly why I was so happy when you directed me to this site all those years ago! I dreamed a site like Letterheads exsisted, and thanks to Steve, Barb and everybody here, I might make sompn of myself one day! From the bottom of my compressor, Thank you!

The flip side of that... Stef gets a new airbrush this Spring!

quote:

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I'm guessing here that wet sanding gives a better tooth for the paint?

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[ February 13, 2002: Message edited by: Jim & Chris hetzler ]

I was curious...earlier when I was thunking about doin this in 1-Shot...I wondered if I tossed a coat of white down and then airbrushed the other colors over it, (whilst the white was wet) would that cause the airbrushed colors to stay put? Would it muddy up or sit right? Has anyone tried this before?

Rick, I might starve by then...I need to get sompn on the van that makes people want to drop everything and call me ASAP!...as in yesterday! hahaha!

I like the above idea to ravage left over paint at a body shop...'cept could I go wrong there? ...getting "old" paint? How would I know if it was?

I'm thinking that practicing on sompn first might save me some heart ache...like on some panels that have been finished like a car has...how would I go about this?

Whew, so I'm not nuts? I would clear the 1-Shot right? I could spray the Pelucid on as a clear and it would work?

Is it that the 1-Shot wouldn't blend as well? Is the drying time the only real issue here, or is the quality of the auto paints really that much better? Does anybody have any similar examples to show me the difference in the two?