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I always seal the edges of MDO with Alex II latex caulk w/ silicone after 2 coats of primer. I saw this method in a Butch Anton video a couple years ago. So far, I've had no problems. Does anyone else seal their edges this way, another way, or not at all, just paint?
-------------------- Mike"Spud"Kelly zipperhead design Westminster, MA Posts: 367 | From: Westminster, MA | Registered: Mar 2001
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I use 100% silicone, and then cap with vinyl J Channel-- The kind that you use with vinyl siding, I comes in a bunch of different colors and is cheap in price (3 bucks for 10 feet) If you miter the corners it gives your sign a "framed" look
Jason
-------------------- Jason Davie 193 Front Street Deposit, NY 13754
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ditto here, a little silicone bead and plastic moulding w/ mitered edge looks 'finished' Oh, they make a hand tool for the mitered cuts, goes alot faster.
-------------------- Ed Harris Designs&Signs Lexington, TN
"Give me chastity and give me continence, but do not give it yet." -- Saint Augustine" Posts: 213 | From: Lexington, TN USA | Registered: Feb 1999
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-------------------- Pierre St.Marie Stmariegraphics Kalispell,Mt www.stmariegraphics.com ------------------ Plan on knowing everything before I die and time's running out! Posts: 4223 | From: Kalispell,Mt 59903 | Registered: Mar 2000
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Exterior wood filler. Almost all my signs are shaped, and this has worked for me for years now. I put it on with my fingers, smooth it out , let it dry,and then sand to a smooth finish. Never could get the hang of the caulk. Couldnt get it smooth as I wanted it.
-------------------- Maker of fine signs and other creative stuff. Located at 109 N. Cumberland ave. Harlan, Ky. 40831 606-837-0242 Posts: 4172 | From: Ages-Brookside, Ky. Up the Holler... | Registered: Jul 1999
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Few of our signs have flat edges to accept those moldings. I've used wood fillers and caulking and West Systems epoxy and in six months the edges are cracking on all of them. I have not tried the aluminum yet...that is a great idea! It will expand more than paints or epoxies I'd assume.I'll try it.
-------------------- The SignShop Mendocino, California
Making the simple complicated is commonplace; making the complicated simple, awesomely simple, that's creativity. — Charles Mingus Posts: 6806 | From: Mendocino, CA. USA | Registered: Nov 1998
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I'm with John. I used exterior wood filler and a rubber glove. I work the filler into the edges, let it dry and sand. I do this before any priming or block out. I like the "feel" and get better results. I never could get silicon smooth enough. Wood filler is like putty and has a nice feel to it. I can seal a 4 x 8 flat 3/4 MDO sheet with a 1/4 cove in about 10 minutes. Wood filler dries to sand in about 10 minutes. Sanding is an other 10 minutes and bam, ready to prime and coat in 1/2 hour.
Posts: 466 | From: Jackson Wy | Registered: Jan 2002
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I've been using a combination of wood filler followed with paintable silicone caulk for quite a while. Keep a bucket of warm water handy, dampen your fingers as you go with the filler, let dry, sand, then do the same thing with the silicone caulk taking care to get the caulk off the faces with sloppy wet fingers, prime, paint usually 2 coats, and finish.
The caulk works best for me when I put the tube in a caulking gun, squeeze out a little on a finger, release the caulk gun ratchet gadget so it doesn't keep pushing the caulk out, apply and smooth with the wet fingers. Worked for me for quite a while.
West system material is UV sensitive; wet sand when dry to get something called amine blush off, then prime and paint per usual.
-------------------- Bill Preston Fly Creek, N.Y. USA
Posts: 943 | From: Fly Creek, N.Y. USA | Registered: Jan 2000
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Tite Bond two Woodworkers glue. I have posted this before and been blasted. To those who blasted me, I have had absolutely NO FAILURE. Get it at any hardware store. It is waterproof, paintable and dries in about five minutes. I put one coat on then sand with very fine sand paper. Then put on a second coat. It soaks in and STICKS to the wood ( it's glue, it's made to stick to wood! ). Total process takes a 1/2 hour. No long dry times. Just start painting. I didn't invent this. I was taught it by an older sign painter. The stuff is inexpensive also.
-------------------- Rob Larkham Rob Larkham Signs & Lettering 21 Middlefield Road Chester, MA. 01011
413-354-0287 Posts: 517 | From: Chester, MA | Registered: May 2001
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Rob, I must have missed that post. I have been using Titebond II and have great confidence in it. Didn't know I could use it as an edge sealer. Gonna try it in just a few minutes on a shape I have cut and sanded. Our humidity is high here so I think I will really like this. Thanks for the tip. Love easy solutions!
-------------------- Kathy Joiner River Road Graphics 41628 River Road Ponchatoula, La.70454
Old enough to know better...Too young to resist. Posts: 1891 | From: Ponchatoula, LA | Registered: Nov 2000
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After sanding the edges, I put on two coats of w/b primer. When dry(about 1/2 hr), I put down a bead of Alex II and take my squeegee that I notched out a 3/4" square on one side, 1/2" on the other, and just "run it down". Dries in about 15 minutes. Sometimes Home Depot runs a special on the stuff(4 tubes for $3.99). Rob, I use Tite Bond II in the shop. Never thought of using it as a sealer. Definitely must try it. Thanks for the tip.
-------------------- Mike"Spud"Kelly zipperhead design Westminster, MA Posts: 367 | From: Westminster, MA | Registered: Mar 2001
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