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Author Topic: Questions About 1 Shot
George Cooper
Visitor
Member # 2668

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A few newbie type of questions that I would really appreciate some help with:

1) How and with what do you remove cured (> 1 year) 1 Shot lettering enamel that was painted onto the acrylic clear coat on a car without harming the clear coat?

2) After painting with 1 Shot lettering enamel, how long should you wait before shooting acrylic clear coat over it?

3) How do you find local distributors for the full line of 1 Shot products?

Thanks for any help!

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George Cooper


Posts: 2 | From: Charleston, SC | Registered: Jan 2002  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Tim Barrow
Deceased


Member # 576

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(1) Very carefully,....first I would try some polishing compound ,....maybe try putting a little solvent on the rag that the polishing compound is on & then slowly but surely remove the paint being careful not to rub thru the clearcoat.
(2)Unless you use hardener in the oneshot,...don't even try to put an automotive clear coat over the one shot. Many will tell you it is possible, but I would not advise this for the novice.Even if you use hardener you will need to "dust" a coupla coats on & let them dry before putting on a full wet coat.First and foremost wait until any paint you want to clear over is totally cured.
(3) There used to be a place on Rivers st./ave.? in Charleston that sold oneshot, I can't quite remember the name but it was beside a piggly wiggly & was some sort of hardware & paint store, you can check your yellow pages & one of the local sign painters in your area can probably tell you.

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fly low...timi/NC is,
Tim Barrow
Barrow Art Signs
Winston-Salem,NC

Posts: 2224 | From: Winston-Salem,NC,USA | Registered: Nov 1998  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Steve Barba
Visitor
Member # 431

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George-

1- I have used Oven Cleaner to remove One-Shot. The way that I do it is spray the stuff on the rag, in a small amount, then dab it on the paint. It has to sit for 15-20 min before anything happens, and most of the time has to be re-applied. Wash off thouroghly with soap and water. If the One-Shot has been on for a period of time, you might encounter a ghosted image, which will have to be rubbed out and then re-waxed when yer done. (you probably wont get all of the image off, but it will look alot better)

2- Whenever I have to clear One-Shot, I wait 6 weeks. The clear must be applied "dry" until you get full coverage. After the dry coats are applied, then clear as normal. Timi has a better way of doing this, and I need to find out what that is.

If I know that I'm going to clear something- I just use base coat/clear coat, much easier.

3- Dunno- I've been buying my stuff locally since I started. I would suggest the all knowing internet to find someone locally.

Hope this helps

--------------------
"B0LT" on the chat room thing.

steven.barba@yellowjackets.bhsu.edu
605-720-7669


Posts: 768 | From: Sturgis South Dakota | Registered: Nov 1998  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Steve Barba
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Member # 431

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TIM- U beat me to it! LOL

[ January 24, 2002: Message edited by: Steve Barba ]



--------------------
"B0LT" on the chat room thing.

steven.barba@yellowjackets.bhsu.edu
605-720-7669

Posts: 768 | From: Sturgis South Dakota | Registered: Nov 1998  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Bill Preston
Deceased


Member # 1314

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Hi, George,

Easy-Off works OK on a factory applied baked finish. On a repaint that has air dried, it is asking for trouble in that the oven cleaner goes after everything. Wear kitchen type gloves-- this stuff burns. Be very careful using it on the "big rigs"-- I am not sure that they are a baked finish. George Perkins should know about that.

Clear coating is something I've never seen a need for when using one shot. Probably the exposure to chemicals would dictate the need or lack of it.

Can't help you on sources for ome-shot in your area.

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Bill Preston
Fly Creek, N.Y. USA


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Mike Murray
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Member # 840

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(1) If it's the original factory finish, oven cleaner will work (be sure to test a SMALL area first though). If it's not the original finish, then see Timi's post.
(2) I always use the same hardener that the clear uses mixed in with the Oneshot and try to wait at least 12 hours before clearing. Dust the first two coats then give the "wet" coats.
(3) Try asking other shops where to buy.

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Mike Murray
Murray Signs
Freeport IL

Posts: 193 | From: Freeport IL USA | Registered: May 1999  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Don Hulsey
Resident


Member # 128

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Just a couple of notes on the EZ OFF. Test an inconspicous area first, then do a small test in each area. I tested the back of a cab once, then started removing lettering, only to discover the cab was original paint, the passenger door was a repaint. Big mess.

Also, when working on the biggies, watch the fuel tanks, steps wheels, and other items. This stuff destroys aluminum finish.

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Don Hulsey
Strokes by DON signs
Utica, KY
270-275-9552
sbdsigns@aol.com


I've always been crazy... but it's kept me from going insane.


Posts: 2312 | From: Utica, KY U.S.A. | Registered: Jan 1999  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Linda Silver Eagle
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Member # 274

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I used easy off.

I don't know about the clear, but if nothing else pans out local-like...there's always the suppliers link on Letterheads Page...oneshot.com.

Have fun learning.

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Linda Welborn
Aigle D'Argent

678-292-3102

http://www.precious101.com


Posts: 2501 | From: GA | Registered: Nov 1998  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
George Cooper
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Member # 2668

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Thank you one and all. I very much appreciate the time that you took to help me.

George Cooper

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George Cooper


Posts: 2 | From: Charleston, SC | Registered: Jan 2002  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Ryan E Young
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Member # 2325

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shot has its place but if you are going to clear over it use House of Kolor Striping paint. Any automotive paint store can get it for you. It is the best stuff for that kind of application.

--------------------
Ryan Young
Indocil Art & Design
indocil@comporium.net
803-980-6765


I highjacked Letterville!!
Winter Muster 2004

Posts: 904 | From: Rock Hill, SC | Registered: Sep 2001  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Chris Lovelady
Resident


Member # 2540

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if you cannot find 1-shot local i might recomend call this distributer..has more that just paint decal material, screen supplies, and so much more!!

Tubelight
1800-432-8526

good luck....i have use denatured alcohol but of course alway test first!!!!

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"We have been making house calls since 1992"

Chris Lovelady
Vital Signs

NOW WITH 2 LOCATIONS!
Tallahassee, Florida
Thomasville, Ga.

www.vitalsignsllc.com
1-850-893-0674


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Michael Boone
Deceased


Member # 308

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If you use Easy Off..
Make sure to wear gloves,goggles,and protectice clothing.
This stuff is nasty and it will turn yer fingernails brown and loosen yer skin....
Dont use in the wind.....
Use it outdoors...

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Michael Boone
Sign Painter
5828 Buerman Rd.Sodus,NY 14551

Posts: 3223 | From: Sodus,NY,USA | Registered: Dec 1998  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Preston McCall
Visitor
Member # 351

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Strop a single edged razor blade against a wet windshield a few times to get off all the burrs. Then add a slightly soapy water or even carnuba wax to the area and very gently, using a good razor blade holder, begin to slice it off some at an angle and think "slice" not "chisel". Amazingly it can get quite a bit off this way, first and break open the surface of the 1shot enough to then use lacquer thinner cut 10% with mineral spirits (if the paint is not a repaint and if the orange peel is very low). Remove any stubborn left-overs with a mix of rubbing compound and carnuba on an old t-shirt. Gently! Follow up with McGuiars 3 & 7 with a lamb's wool bonnet wheel and final stroke it in the direction of the wind going across (on a door it would be horizontally, therefore) it with #7 on a t-shirt.

With fire red 1 shot over white, there can be a ghost. Repaint is necessary using sealer.

I only mention this technique as with extreme care and careful work it can significantly help, but you have to watch out about gouging the finish beneath and use plenty of light and even some bifocals. Helps to have the work area up high enopugh so you are very comfortable. Once you get the technique down, it can speed things up much better than using weakened methyl chloride or easy off.

I had 30 two year old Crown Vics sent to my restoration shop years ago that had to have a company name removed over various firemist finishes and we used this technique quite happily. We had it down to a science by about the third one. The easy off is alot more tricky to use successfully than you can imagine. It does eat the substrate and especially metallics.

--------------------
Preston McCall
10305 Eby st.
Overland Park, KS
66212
text: 5056607370


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Robert Lenz
Visitor
Member # 387

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George,

Usually brake fluid and some comet will work for me.

--------------------
Rob Lenz (paintm)
Lenz Signs
Osage, Iowa (USA)
lenzsign@osage.net
ICQ 38922548


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Mike Kelly
Visitor
Member # 2037

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As others have mentioned, use Easy Off ONLY on factory finish. I learned the hard way. I have used this method a number of times: 1)Tape the top of a piece of plastic wrap(Saran Wrap type) along the bottom of the paint to be removed. This will help keep the Easy Off from dripping down further than needed as well as keeping the fumes at a minimum. 2) Carefully spray Easy Off, trying to keep it on the 1-Shot as much as possible. 3) Pull up the plastic and cover the Easy Off and let sit for about 10 minutes. After 10 minutes, try to scrape the paint with your finger over the plastic. You can see how well it's working through the plastic. When soft enough, remove plastic and wipe with paper towels. What doesn't come off will be soft enough to to remove with mineral spirits or polishing compound. Rubber gloves and goggles are definitely in order here. Good luck.

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Mike"Spud"Kelly
zipperhead design
Westminster, MA

Posts: 367 | From: Westminster, MA | Registered: Mar 2001  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Monte Jumper
Resident


Member # 1106

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I've never I repeat ...never...damaged an automotive surface using this method.This is how they did it before there was someone brave enough to use oven-off.

Mix denatured alchohol with mineral spirits 60/40
keep the area you wish to remove wet with this solution and start rubbing (try to stay on the lettering only.It takes some elbow grease but it doesn't damage anything either.

Sometimes I mix rub a mixture of this solution and cake Bon Ami just to get a little abrasive action going.

Clear coating non hardened One Shot is a cinch if you don't let it cure too hard.I usually clear over it about 5 hours after the oneshot is applied...mist coat once let it set up...repeat, let it set up...then clear it heavily one ...two ...three coats. My reasoning has always been, if it isn't cured hard it can't wrinkle (and it never has)

"Hey ,werks fer me it'll werk fer you"

For suppliers...contact One Shot they distribute to everyone inccluding God and will be happy to give you a list of thse closest to you.

[ January 27, 2002: Message edited by: Monte Jumper ]



--------------------
"Werks fer me...it'll werk fer you"

Monte Jumper
SIGNLanguage/Norman.Okla.
jumpers@itlnet.net

Posts: 3185 | From: Norman,Okla.U.S.A. | Registered: Sep 1999  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Stephen Deveau
Visitor
Member # 1305

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Monte

There is something about One Shot Clear!
Bonding Agent.


--------------------
Stephen Deveau
RavenGraphics
Insinx Digital Displays

Letting Your Imagination Run Wild!


Posts: 4327 | From: Lower Sackville, Nova Scotia, Canada | Registered: Jan 2000  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
   

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