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I have two large panels plus 4 smaller ones on my latest carved/gild project. I am trying to shortcut errors, as they multiply very rapidly. Let me pre-empt this by saying that I want a very smooth, slick, auto finish panel. My problem in the past are areas that have been sanded slightly thin on the primer/fillers take on a duller finish than their surrounds. You can't always see these areas very well when prepped because they are microscopic. Most areas with serious sand-throughs are easy to see. I use one shot and taking a long time to dry, causes a late soak in of the enamel in the slightly porous areas leaving these "flat" looks. My typical fix is to sand and re-shoot which does the trick but takes a major extra step. Does anyone seal their filler/primer before shooting the enamel? What type of finishes do you use? (one's that will give the super smooth shiney surface) Thanks for your comments, Jack
-------------------- "Don't change horses in midstream, unless you spot one with longer legs" bronzeo oti Jack Davis 1410 Main St Joplin, MO 64801 www.imagemakerart.com jack@imagemakerart.com Posts: 1549 | From: Joplin, MO | Registered: Mar 2000
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Why not paint with something like an acrylic urathane?? Prep with a primer filler to smooth the eggshell finish of the HDU. Paint, color sand and buff. You probibly won't get a better finish!
-------------------- Mark Neurohr "Ernest" Paintin' Place 141 Sunnyside Road Kittanning, PA 16201
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Jack, check out Steven Deveau's "tips and tricks" post a short way down the list. Sounds like a good idea. Haven't tried it yet, but plan to this week.
-------------------- Mike"Spud"Kelly zipperhead design Westminster, MA Posts: 367 | From: Westminster, MA | Registered: Mar 2001
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Bronxeo, I've almost totally converted over to HDU, as far as I'm concerned it's a lot better than wood, for so many reasons. But when it comes to carving it is totally the best. As for finishing, I've tried lots of way, and the way I do it now is once I've finished my carving, I give it 3 good coats of FSC-88WB. Don't sand inbetween coats. If you use a fan to help in the drying process you can give all 3 coats in a day. Covers up a multitude of sins. After the last coat let it dry overnight, and in the morning wet sand it. Get a bucket of water, drop a couple of drops of detergent in and go for it, sand it real smooth, you will be surprised what it will look like when you're done. You're carved areas won't need much sanding, and watch that you don't over sand. Once you're finished rinse it off real good and put it in front of the fan, let it dry real good and give it 2 coats of one shot with enamel hardener. This whole process takes some time because of the paint drying times. Make sure you wait 24 hours between the one shot coats. Do all of the rest of your painting that you have to do, but hold off on the gold leaf. Let everything dry for about 2-3 days so it is all good and dry. Then bring it to your local body shop and let them put on 2-3 coats of automotive clear, when you get it back go and do your guilding. There are times when I will do my leafing then clear coat over it all, but that does cut down on the shine of the gold by about 20%. Hope this works for you, it seems to work for me. Takes a little time because of the drying, but it puts an awesome finish on your project, and all the customer can do is sit back and tell you what a good job you did. If you price it right all the extra work will be worth it. Don't give your work away, let them realize that they have a one of a kind. Hope it works for you, it does for me. There are times where I will use vinyl instead of painting in some areas and it seems to be working fine as well with the clear coat over. Have fun, Ed Cimaglio
-------------------- Ed Cimaglio Hedgesville, WV Posts: 13 | From: Hedgesville, WV | Registered: May 2000
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Ed, That is almost exactly how I am doing it now. I just want to get rid of the double paint job, but perhaps I can't. Generally spraying will allow for this, but the enamel drys so slow for subsequent coats.
Mark, What exactly is acrylic urethane. It isn't a waterborn product is it? I seem to remember using it to shoot a Firebird once. Can you elaborate on its caracteristics. Thanks, Jack
-------------------- "Don't change horses in midstream, unless you spot one with longer legs" bronzeo oti Jack Davis 1410 Main St Joplin, MO 64801 www.imagemakerart.com jack@imagemakerart.com
Posts: 1549 | From: Joplin, MO | Registered: Mar 2000
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Hey Jack, A technique I use a lot is to apply a second coat just as the first one is tacking up (about an hour). If brushing, that second coat can be a little tricky to get laid on without pulling up the first coat. It can be done, but it's much easier if you're spraying. Mix enough paint in advance with hardener and thinner to do both coats, it'll hold for an hour ok. If you've got it particularly 'hot' with hardener I've been told sticking the spray gun in a refrigerator will keep it from kicking. Sometimes I can even go for a third coat if I have enough mixed in the cup.
Note for spraying - the first 'tack' coat has to be put on dry. Too heavy and it will show your white primer underneath where it breaks over the rim. And if you try to put your second coat on too soon it will STILL show white around the edges.
SONGPAINTER Original Sign Music by Sign People NOW AVAILABLE on CD and the proceeds go to Letterville's favorite charity! Click Here for Sound Clips! Posts: 1974 | From: Orleans, MA, Cape Cod, USA | Registered: Nov 1998
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