It cannot be done. There is no known glue to bond the sheets together. You can use the 3-M bond tape to apply the sheets with great sucess.
If you are looking for a stronger board and are thinking about applying 2- 4mm 0r 6mm sheets. Why not order in a 10mm or 12mm sheet to do the job from your supplier!
-------------------- Stephen Deveau RavenGraphics Insinx Digital Displays
Letting Your Imagination Run Wild!
Posts: 4327 | From: Lower Sackville, Nova Scotia, Canada | Registered: Jan 2000
| IP: Logged |
posted
Use silicone or a construction glue like the one used for wood panels in a house. We call it "No Nails" in OZ.
If you can, bond the sheets together with the flutes at right angles to each other. You will end up with a strong, very rigid panel, better than a single sheet of the equivalent thickness.
posted
Just checked in and ...wow...you guys are 'really' helpful with all of your replies.
Steven, I need to make a table top display that folds in two places, like what is needed for trade shows, etc. Center panel is 22"x42" with two side panels 20"x42" that opens up and stands on a table. I need to make it stronger so that one can take it on their travels.
I don't have the time to order this in a heavier weight...don't know where I can get it nearby. I always envy you people in the cities who can just 'hop over' for supplies.
Jon...thanks for reminding me about putting the flutes the other way for added strength.
I have one of those tools that slits the flutes on one side only, and realize that three slits next to each other for each bend takes some of the stress of a single slit (am I making sense?)
Now, I'm not sure if I am able to double the sides that fold in (we'll see...depends on how it folds together)
Also, I know that the sheets are 48" wide and I need the flutes to go vertically, so that's another reason that I need to double it...so that I can splice it at the back of the center panel and put the double center panel to the front.
No graphics are needed on the reverse side of these panels.
Thanks to all of you for your kind help.
[ January 09, 2002: Message edited by: Bernice Tornquist ]
I have made double-ply and even triple-ply coroplast by two methods. Contact cement and exterior grade two sided carpet tape. Both methods are quick and worked great for exterior use. It's a little tricky lining up two sheets if you use contact cement so I put a third sheet in between the two cemented sheets, line them all up and usually with the help of a assistant, slide out the middle sheet lengthwise while applying pressure to the remaining sheets so that they adhere. If you have any more questions email or call me!
-------------------- Happy Signing...... Marty
M.F. (Marty) Happy Signmaker Since 1974 Happy Ad Sign & Design Regina SK, Canada S4N 5K4 306-789-9567 happyad@sasktel.net www.happyad.ca
Last time we talked, I looked up Nipawin on a map. You don't exactly have three or four supply houses within ten miles like we do here.
I'm with Steven on this one - 3M VHB with cross grain, if time is the issue.
Another alternative might be to make the sign from one layer of material and then make a custom shipping carton to move it around.
The carton is nothing more than two pieces of masonite 1" bigger all around than the display. Use coroplast drops in the margin to protect the edges. Or if masonite is too heavy, make the carton from coroplast. Hold it together with a couple of adjustable straps from a camping store or camera shop. Vic G
-------------------- Victor Georgiou Danville, CA , USA
Posts: 1746 | From: Danville, CA , USA | Registered: Dec 1998
| IP: Logged |
posted
Bernice, I found that the product Ultraboard (1/2") is great for these kind of displays. (Not good for much else, but perfect for this.) It is a 1/2" thick sheet of foamcore with a plastic face front & back.
Out of a 4'x 8' sheet, I cut one piece 48 1/4" wide and two pieces 23 7/8" wide, and then cap them around the perimeter with 1/2" MDO or signboard trim (with the deep channel) using construction adhesive. Then I use (2) 48" piano hinges to attach the end pieces to either side of the middle piece. They will fold over onto the face of the center section and lay flat. Then you apply graphics to the display, and use half of the 1" x 48" x 96" cardboard box that the Ultraboard comes in for a protective sleeve for the finished product. If you can get the Ultraboard or a similar product, try this.
If you still want to glue the plasticor together, I can personally vouch for the clear construction-grade silicone. I checked the two jobs again today that I did this way - one three years ago, one six years ago - and they are both holding strong. They also are boxes, with only edges attached. So I'm sure that entire flat surfaces in an indoor application would make an even greater permanent bond.
posted
Have you tried "gorilla glue"? That stuff sticks anything! Last time I glued a volkswagen bus with ten gorillas holding twelve cases of bananas upside down on the tree, it held them until Jane got there! No kidding, this stuff holds anything.
-------------------- Deb Fowler
"It's kind of fun to do the impossible - Walt Disney (1901-1966) Posts: 5373 | From: Loves Park, Illinois | Registered: Aug 1999
| IP: Logged |
posted
Bernice- I have used Gorilla Glue in the past (and yes, it's a good product) but I switched to a product called Lexell (it's clear and comes in a tube). I use it on all coroplast construction. It's terrific. When I needed to take a piece apart and couldn't, I called the manufacturer to find out what I could use to break it up- the guy just laughed and said there wasn't any known way to remove it. I get Lexell at a local Ace Hardware.
-------------------- Linda Schmidt Vital D'Signs Greers Ferry, AR signlady@ozarkisp.net Posts: 160 | From: Greers Ferry, AR | Registered: Sep 2001
| IP: Logged |
Printer-friendly view of this topic