posted
Ok. I do get all the wacky ones...so here's the gig. I have a couple round mirrors that need to be lettered and airbrushed. I was wondering about the prepping of this mirror even with the airbrushed parts. What would grab to glass best? White one shot, XIM etc? I believe I should at least wet sand the masked image area also correct? The image area will be on the mirror and wrap on the frame so I think a urethane coat can cover the entire (image only) area. What are your opinions? As always, your input is sincerely appreciated and will post pics of these when they're finished. Maybe even a "How I did it" kind of thing. LOL
------------------ Robert "Bobby" Salyers Airbrush & Graphics Studio Clearwater, FL airbrushnow@email.msn.com
He put in your heart certain wishes and plans, in my heart he put other and different desires. Each man is good in his sight. It is not necessary for eagles to be crows.---Sitting Bull
Posts: 505 | From: Clearwater Florida USA | Registered: Feb 1999
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posted
I used to get a lot of mirrors to do for car show folks. Just clean them real good and One Shot works fine. I always hated doing them, you bout go cross eyed from watching the image of the brush coming at you, plus most of the ones I got to do were silvered on the back side and your lettering would end up hanging up in the air so to speak. Unattractive and hard as hell to read, but it would never fail come show season to get a couple each year.
------------------ George Perkins Millington,TN. goatwell@ionictech.com
"I started out with nothing and still have most of it left"
posted
when painting on glass, I always add 15-20% Lukas 3 hours size to the best oil paint. Sits forever! Resently I have experimented with latex on glass, then when dry,I applied a rich coat of size. fast and good
Why cant we go back to just bashing architechst and designers and quickie sticke stupids.??Letterheads must stay united
------------------ Stein Sæther GullSkilt AS Trondheim
1-Shot sticks to glass real well. You might want to clear over the airbrushing unless you do it "wet on wet". Neither Frog Juice nor 1-Shot UV clear sticks to glass very well, so don't use it as an undercoat.
------------------ Jerry Mathel Jerry Mathel Signs Grants Pass, Oregon signs@grantspass.com
Posts: 916 | From: Grants Pass, OR USA | Registered: Dec 1998
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another possibility would be to do the work in reverse on the back of a glass panel and then take it to a mirror resilverer. just looked in the st pete yellow pages and there's a shop on 9th street north that does resilvering. silvering is charged a straight per foot, and will probably be around 9 to 12 bucks per sq.ft., as i recall. ( i haven't done this for about 5 years and it was in a different part of the country, so this is just a ballpark)
the effect will be like those fancy mirrors the liquor/beer distributors get for bar walls.
------------------ Don Coplen aka "SaintPete" Coplen Designs St.Petersburg, FL dcoplen@mindspring.com
13.7¢ a day to support this site that does so much for so many? Count me in! Another proud supporter of this great site and all it stands for!
posted
I'd be inclined to do as Don suggests. Do the work in reverse and get it silvered.
It always looks better than floating letter on top.
One thing to be aware of, silvering will attack certain types of paint. Enamels (One-shot) will need a backing of epoxy or bitumen. You can also letter with 2-part auto paints. Water-based will fail.
I fyou want to paint on the front, you certainly don't need to do any sand-blasting, unless you specifically want that type of finish.
posted
Blast the area you'll be painting off the back side. Like George said, it'll drive you blind and it's hard to read on the front of the mirror. With the painting on the back you don't have to be concerned with it ever getting damaged.
------------------ Larry
Elliott Design McLemoresville, Tn.
If you can't find the time to do it right, where gonna find the time to do it over?
Posts: 486 | From: McLemoresville, TN. USA | Registered: Nov 1998
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