I just replaced it with the polypropelene cutting mat you see offered through SpeedPress/Grimco, etc. It is quite a bit thicker and supposed to be somewhat "self-healing".

Couple of questions:

Joey, glass sounds very intriguing...I never thought about that. Seems like it would be easy on xacto blades too. Does it cause any problems with transfer tape wanting to stick to it too aggressively or not?

Ray, mdo....inexpensive and durable...do you have any problem with premature dulling of xacto blades or loose debris from occassionaly cutting into the wood?

If you decide on a glass top, make sure your table is level and flat, use plastic spacers in low spots. Cover the glass edge with striping, even though the edges have been roughed up at the glass shop and will not cut, it is still abrasive enough to ruin your clothes from repeated rubbing.

I just built a 2x6 wood frame, stuck a shop-lite in it, then bought a used glass shower door that already had the hardware stripped off it for $5.

I've tried breaking it using forces that would be experienced in my business without any luck... that tempered glass is strong stuff.

I use it for weeding, taping, masking and when I turn on the light it's a great light table. The backside of the glass is textured to diffuse light and the side I use is totally flat and smooth.

I have 1/4" upsom board over 5/8" plywood on my lettering benches (great for cutting and push pins)

I have changed them out only once in 15 years and they are just about ready to do again.

Then we tried one of those polypropelene mats. We found them to score easily and not be self healing as claimed, although they were easy on the blade tips.

Then after using my wife's green OLFA mat that she uses in her sewing room, I knew what I wanted. There was an abundance of outfits selling tham in small sizes, but I found a company in Washington that bought these larger than 4x8 sheets and cut them down to the small sizes and did the printing of all the lines and rulers. They sold us the monster sheet and it's been working great for many years. No noticable wear. It is double sided so I could flip it someday, but this thing might outlast me.

Pierre, I'm surprised that you didn't tell everyone who is concerned about broken glass to use Pelucid. I typed that in as a joke, but now I'm wondering. Will it harden enough in an indoor situation? How difficult would it be to get it smooth enough on say a 4'x8' table?

I'm using formica for now. Bought it because it "matched" the decor in the shop. It has a very slight texture. I simply ignored the facts and went with the "woman thing", esthetics. Bummer.

[ January 06, 2002: Message edited by: Kathy Joiner ]

The surface isn't good for tape to stick to and is getting rough from cutting.

Glass scares me, I'm too clumsy...those mats Rich spoke of would be cool. Are they expensive?

For now, I guess I'll go with a sheet of MDO like Si.

Question for you glass users:

Does the glass edge work well for running a T-square on it? Any safety issues with the edge?

Thanks!

i built a small (rolling) work/utility table for using the power tools at (away from the "clean" table for the vinyl). I also use this table for mixing paint and the like. i had some left-over "graffiti control" vinyl that i covered the table with to make paint spill removal easier. its too soon to judge how well it works, but i figure it will be a great way to judge the effectiveness of the vinyl.

as for a cutting surface, i go with the glass. if you find you're scoring the glass then you need to:
a. change your blades more often
b. use less cutting force.

I cut Rubylith all day long with X-acto #11 blades for three years. I've learned that most people don't change blades often enough.

There wont be any safety issues if the glass edge is finished off cleanly.

The old shower door I use has rounded edges on it, just like a set of glass shelves or any other glass item sold for home furniture.

I also havent had any problems with any blades cutting, scoring or scratching the glass. Ya need a diamond-tipped blade or bit to cut glass and I cant think of any Utility blade or X-acto that has a diamond edge on it.

Use tempered glass and it wont break, plain and simple.. under normal conditions, at least. I've sat on my glass table.. I'm a big'un and the glass is supported only around the perimeter by 2x6 lumber.

If you think you can apply more than 300 pounds to your glass top, yer either as big as me or yer stackin stuff on it that maybe you shouldnt.

Trust me guys, if you cut vinyl, you will love these tools. You might find them in the "scrapbooking" section of the craft stores, or in a sewing store.

I took some pics of it along with my plotter cabinet, but just when I need it, my scanner is acting up. Might have to take it out back and put it to sleep.