posted
I'm jonesin' to put a fade on vinyl, something I've never done before. I've been doing some research on previous posts and chatted with some of you on MIRC. I'm finding that there's a great deal to learn on this subject and that everyone has their own way of doing things.
Here are some of the details: The vinyl lettering will be applied to the sides of a sailboat. It will be exposed to the elements, saltwater and will be partially (and hopefully temporarily) submerged when 'hard to weather.' The capital letters are 12" and the lower case are 7" high, 50" wide. The vinyl is 'medium blue' and I want it to fade from blue at the top to white at the bottom.
What are your opinions regarding airbrush vs spraying Krylon?
My airbrush is a Paasche VL...I've never used it and I know, there's lots to learn. I'm wondering if I should just try the Krylon for now, to get this job out the door and play with the airbrush later.
What about Prep? Cut first/paint first? Weed first/weed after painting? Scuff between coats? What about the scratches after scuffing? How long between coats? Should I mask the top portion off, will this cause a definite line between blue and white. (that I don't want) At what angle do I hold the sprayer and should my substrate be vertical or horizontal for best results? Clear coat?
Any advise on what NOT to do?
Thanks for your advise, I can't wait to get started!
Cher.
------------------ Cheryl Lucas a/k/a "Shag" Vital Signs & Graphics, Etc. Cape Coral, Florida VSignsNgraphics@aol.com
Posts: 987 | From: Cape Coral, FL USA | Registered: Aug 2000
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posted
Hi Cheryl... I haven't used krylon personally but a lot of folks do and achieve good results. I did see one case where Krylon was used and when the premask was pulled off it pulled some of the paint off too.
My method of choice is using Automotive basecoat/clearcoat. The base coat is the color coat and it is basically a type if acrylic lacquer. It dries quickly and is relatively harmless as far as fumes are concerned. (ALL paint fumes and overspray in the air are harmful but this product is less so than others.)
The clearcoat, which is what produces the shine is a catalized urethane and it can be harmful if the fumes are inhaled, so make sure you work in a well ventilated area, and wear proper breathing protection. (The same advice would apply to Krylon too).
my method of approaching a fade on vinyl is...
cut the graphic, but don't weed it.
set the graphic on a table for spraying.
"LIGHTLY" wipe the vinyl with a solvent like prepsol, to get rid of any finger prints. (DON'T "flood" the vinyl with this stuff, just dampen a cloth or paper towel with it and wipe off any fingerprints).
Spray your fade with the basecoat color.
Go have a cold Coors Light while the basecoat dries. (Only one beer though!)
Spray the graphic with a light "dust coat" of clearcoat.
(have another beer)
Spray a second medium coat.
(have a beer)
Spray a third medium coat.
Spraying the clear in 3 stages instead of heaping the paint on in one coat is necessary because one HEAVY coat will wrinkle the vinyl like a raisin!
Clean up your equipment thoroughly, because if you don't you'll be buying a new spray gun for the next job.
(have another couple of beers)
After about 1 to 2 hours you can go ahead and weed the graphic.
(finish off the rest of the 12 pack while congratulating yourself on a job well done.
This method requires no scuffing of the vinyl and is guaranteed to not lift off with the premask.
------------------ Dave Grundy shop#340 AKA "applicator" on mIRC "stickin' sticky stuff to valuable vessels and vehicles!" in Granton, Ontario, Canada 1-519-225-2634 dave.grundy@quadro.net www.quadro.net/~shirley "A PROUD $ supporter of the website"
posted
Easier than you think. Wipe the film with a prepsol like DX440 or similar to remove fingerprints etc. Cut the copy, DO NOT WEED IT, lay it on your protected table. Use "Auto-Air" airbrush paint, mix in the bond-all and catalyst, no basecoat, color fade from the top down into your copy, wait 5 minutes, strip excess film, wait two hours, premask and install it. Clear it if you wish, DO NOT use Pelucid unless you want it absolutely permanent. Once cleared with Pelucid you will NOT be able to remove it without harming the gelcoat unless you surface spray the film only. You'll have to call me and ask about this particular proceedure. We do pre-spray Pelucid on film, but the stripping dwell time is critical. Done it for years this way with no failures.
------------------ St.Marie Graphics & Makin' Tracks Sound Studio Kalispell, Montana stmariegraphics@centurytel.net http://www.stmariegraphics.com 800 735-8026 We're chiseling every day of the week! :^)
posted
Okay, I've phoned my local automotive store and they say they have 25 kinds of paint, they don't care what I spray it through! (I told them I was gonna use an airbrush)
So, what kind of paint?
Thanks, Cher.
------------------ Cheryl Lucas a/k/a "Shag" Vital Signs & Graphics, Etc. Cape Coral, Florida VSignsNgraphics@aol.com
Posts: 987 | From: Cape Coral, FL USA | Registered: Aug 2000
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posted
Ok now you have some ideas and they all work!!! Here is mine... If you want to make a mixed colour of blue (Powder to Sapphire) and then fade it then you can buy 3-M Scotchcals clear enamel receptive vinyl.Cut your lettering style and Airbrush the blue to fade using 1-Shot paints..Do not weed but allow to dry and then add a coating of clear (Frog 1-Shot or Krylon and then weed the lettering.. Remember the material is soft so let it stand for a day or two to go back to it's form shape.. Apply to boat and give a edge seal around each letter... Second metioned application was using the Createx Auto Air paints (Just as Good) But do the same with this as you would with the 1-Shot (always clear coat your finished product) And even when you apply still give it a Edge sealing..... If you are using stock vinyl then you have to scuff with a Scotch Pad first and wipe down..Next thing I do is coat with a top coat receptive then start to airbrush it....
We all have our ways but the most important is to clear seal it and edge seal after it is applied....... Hope this helps.... Raven/2000
------------------ Raven/2000 Airbrushed by Raven Lower sackville N.S. deveausdiscovery@sprint.ca
Posts: 4327 | From: Lower Sackville, Nova Scotia, Canada | Registered: Jan 2000
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Krylon Krylon Krylon.... I always use it and it never chips ..... i use sparcal or avery vinyl and it bonds and kinda eats its way into the vinyl. Just cut the vinyl...dont weed it! .. and spray evenly and steady the whole way across the vinyl. You can even use the new high gloss nifty colors they have now (you just have to wait a little longer for them to dry !)
------------------ Ryan Ursta Ursta Graphics 27 West Shenango St. Sharpsville Pa. 16150 "letters of Recommendation"
posted
Oh I forgot to tell you . As cheryl mentioned about the time where the paint chipped off when the transfer tape was removed. Solution.. Use water soluable t tape and wet the tape soak it down good .... then peel the tape off against its self slowly! .... this will prevent chipping.
Krylon is a cheap way of adding $$$ to a job also
------------------ Ryan Ursta Ursta Graphics 27 West Shenango St. Sharpsville Pa. 16150 "letters of Recommendation"
posted
I normally use whatever paint I can get cheap at the time..
I'll use Createx (regular airbrush colors), Create AutoAir, Waterbased Acrylics from WalMart that only cost 40 cents US$, Krylon..
And just a couple days ago I used a new kinda paint.. It's Automotive Touch-Up paint sold at WalMart under the brand name "Dupli-Color". These paints are designed to match the colors of cars as they rolled off the factory line. I was able to do an EXACT color match of a decal to the vehicle it was going on, and the paint cost me $2 while I got $35 MORE for the decal!
I shot this paint through my Paasche VL, onto vinyl and the paint seemed to be pretty friendly to the vinyl. I then used Krylon Crystal Clear over it.
I always cut before painting and weed after clear coating.
I use Denatured Alcohol (found at Wal Mart, same stuff as fingernail polish remover really) and wipe down the vinyl before spraying on the color, to remove fingerprints, dust and other contaminants.
You can scuff the vinyl with steel wool but do it BEFORE you run it through the cutter. After scuffing, wipe off the dust from the steel wool pad cause ya dont want it gettin in your cutter.
If you use steel wool to scuff the vinyl you wont have to worry about any scratches being visible through the paint, it's such a light scuff it's hidden easily. Any scuffs on the vinyl where you didnt apply paint will disappear when the clear is sprayed on.
I usually keep my vinyl held vertically when I'm painting. It helps to keep dust from settling into fresh paint and it's easier on your back cause you arent huching over your work. Besides that, if the work is laying flat, when you try to hold the airbrush perpendicular to the work, the paint is gonna run right out of the color cup onto your work. =)
I have an assortment of different sized cardboard scraps that I use as "easles". I can spend a day cutting a bunch of vinyl, then tape each job to its own cardboard easle. The next day I can get the airbrushing done on all the jobs and it's easier to handle when all the work is fastened to its own stiff board. I stack all the boards according to colors I'm gonna be spraying then as I spray each one, I use push-pins to stick it to the wall until it dries. If they need second coats of paint, I've already got 'em secured to the wall and I can just "buzz" right through them all quickly.
If you've never used your airbrush before, you might want to use a can of Krylon on this job. Airbrushes are pretty easy (and fun!!) but they might take a little getting used to, and you dont wanna be experimenting on a job unless you have time to burn on it.
I've got 3 paasche VL's, each one setup to spray different fluids and I've got about 20 of the 1/4oz. color cups for fast color changes. =) Fun stuff!
------------------ Mike Pipes Digital Illusion Custom Graphics Lake Havasu City, AZ http://www.stickerpimp.com
Posts: 8746 | From: Lake Havasu, AZ USA | Registered: Jun 2000
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posted
Lately I've been doing using krylon ... spray it into an uncoated paper cup (spray close to the side so it drips to the bottom)... then pour into airbrush cup ... when done run a cupfull of laquer thiner to clean airbrush. Scuff-n-stuff-n-clear as mentioned above. so far great results
posted
You can use whatever you want. You can use Createx auto air and One shot UV or frog juice./// You can use urethanes and most any flexable clear/// I'd rather thin one shot with the reducer, do your thing, then clean gun with mineral spirits. One shot lasts a long time. I get a better gloss when using reducer with a drop of kerosene. You'll need no clear. Make sure to backflush your gun well when cleaning! ;o) there's my big ass 2cents!
------------------ Robert "Bobby" Salyers Airbrush & Graphics Studio Clearwater, FL airbrushnow@email.msn.com
He put in your heart certain wishes and plans, in my heart he put other and different desires. Each man is good in his sight. It is not necessary for eagles to be crows.---Sitting Bull
Posts: 505 | From: Clearwater Florida USA | Registered: Feb 1999
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posted
Well Airbrush Bobby I like to say I'm with you even though the 1 Shot smells alittle bit more then the water base paints it still gives you the best effects... But you have to admit that you still need to clear for time sake!!! and the additive of the Edge sealing will help in the water over time!!!
Raven/2000
------------------ Raven/2000 Airbrushed by Raven Lower sackville N.S. deveausdiscovery@sprint.ca
Posts: 4327 | From: Lower Sackville, Nova Scotia, Canada | Registered: Jan 2000
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posted
I used medium blue Krylon to spray a gradient on white HP Calon, then applied to a navy blue background/outline, no clear finish. It's been on 2 sides of a sailboat for 4 years and still looks great. If it will be immersed, however, I'd recommend clearing it.
------------------ Sonny Franks Atlanta
"The best things in life aren't things"
Posts: 4115 | From: Lilburn, GA USA | Registered: Feb 1999
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The Krylon will look blotchy at first, until you weed it. Spray on the Krylon, 12" where you want it to be solid, then further back where you want it to fade. Do a few coats, wait a few minutes in between, because Krylon will soften the vinyl if you put it on too heavy. After you do the fade, Spray with Krylon Clear, wait a few minutes to dry, then weed. Tip; Rub a pounce bag lightly over the vinyl to see the cuts, then wipe it all off with a tack rag, the powder will stay in the cuts, and won't effect the paint job. Do a few samples before you tackle the real job. Call me if you need any additional info. (941)514-3022 Home. (941)643-2769 Shop. Cheers.
------------------ Robert Thomas Creative Signs In Beautiful Naples, Fl.
Posts: 965 | From: Bonita Springs, Florida USA | Registered: Feb 2000
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posted
Cheryl, first off ya gotta be sure you are using the Krylon "Crystal Clear", and also make sure it's the version labeled "High Gloss". I think there's a less glossy version of the same stuff. The last can I bought was labeled High Gloss, and it was on the same shelf with other cans that werent labeled. Not knowing for sure, I grabbed the labeled can. =)
The Krylon does seem to need a heavier application to get a nice gloss finish.
Like I mentioned before, I use the Krylon when in a pinch, but normally I use Frog Juice. FJ takes less spraying to get a higher gloss although it is 3 times the cost of Krylon.
------------------ Mike Pipes Digital Illusion Custom Graphics Lake Havasu City, AZ http://www.stickerpimp.com
Posts: 8746 | From: Lake Havasu, AZ USA | Registered: Jun 2000
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