posted
ive got a project with a lot of small letters on it. six signs (all the same) are going to be silkscreened. the seventh has slightly different wording. I want to use the same screen ink, since its custom matched for the client's PMS number. my first thought was to make a stencil and screen the 7th sign too, but that seems like a lot of work. would it make sense to use paint-mask vinyl?
my understanding is that i could cut the mask, transfer tape, apply, THEN weed (since its lots of small letters), and then roll the screen ink on. my question is "will the ink get under the mask?" (spraying is not an option here).
-------------------- :: Scooter Marriner :: :: Coyote Signs :: :: Oakland, CA :: :: still a beginner :: ::
Posts: 1356 | From: Oakland (and San Francisco) | Registered: Mar 2001
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posted
Scooter, as with any unfamiliar process, make a trial run with the materials in question. What may work under someone elses conditions, may not work for you and vice versa. It is very possible to do the project just as you described the steps. The ink will not lift the edges of the paintmask. That is what it is designed for. The good thing about oil based inks that you can wipe it off with thinner before it dries. Just make a trial run on a similar substrate with the same ink to test your application methods. Oh, and post your results here afterwards !!!
[ December 13, 2001: Message edited by: John Smith ]
[ December 13, 2001: Message edited by: John Smith ]
-------------------- John Smith Kings Bay Signs (Retired) Kissimmee, Florida Posts: 817 | From: Central Florida - The Sunshine State | Registered: Jan 2000
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Yes, it should work Scooter. I use ink and paint mask like that all the time.
The only problem you might strike is the ink being applied too thick with a roller and sometimes you will get ragged edges when removing the mask.
Two possible solutions to this are 1 .... remove the mask before the ink is fully dry. 2 ... dilute the ink with thinners and apply one or two light coats with a brush.
posted
Scooter No is your answer....... A good mask. Geber/3-M will handle this project...
The only thing about this is to make sure your surface is super clean and nothing traps between your mask an surface.... A good squegee on the edges helps stop bleeding.
Same as any mask/painting of other paints..
Allow to tack up and then start to remove masking.
But remember that vinyl paints need almost to a full cure or when you remove the mask you will have a spider web effect as your removing it.
Roll the coat with a little small amount of solvents. Not to heavy on your coating. And not to much solvent as it will start to burn the masking.
Sample projects are always the best!!!!!!!!!!
[ December 13, 2001: Message edited by: Stephen Deveau ]
-------------------- Stephen Deveau RavenGraphics Insinx Digital Displays
Letting Your Imagination Run Wild! Posts: 4327 | From: Lower Sackville, Nova Scotia, Canada | Registered: Jan 2000
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posted
How bout' using larger screen with both sign images. You could screen both with one pull if you wanted to, or you could tape it off and re-register for 2nd sign.
-------------------- Rich Stebbing RichSigns Rohnert Park CA 707-795-5588 Posts: 755 | From: Rohnert Park, CA | Registered: Nov 1998
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thanks guys! i just wanted to be sure i wasn't trying to do something "unusual". i'll do a test before i get into it too far. (if it doesn't work, i can always go back to the silkscreen).
Rich, that's a good idea, except the effort to make the screen seems greater than the effort to mask the ink... plus, i don't really want to wrassle with a 5' x 3' screen if i don't have to.
-------------------- :: Scooter Marriner :: :: Coyote Signs :: :: Oakland, CA :: :: still a beginner :: ::
Posts: 1356 | From: Oakland (and San Francisco) | Registered: Mar 2001
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Once I had someone suggest trying to use vinyl attached to the underside of the screen, reverse cut of course, never worked for me.... But I did use a lot of rubylith, and amberlith, and a green lith of some kind. Some adhere with water, and some with lacquer thinner, and some have their own specific adhering fluids. Ask your screen print supplier!! They are reverse cut on your own plotter. Laid on a smooth surface, film side up. Lay the screen over this, then wash from the squeegee side with a rag saturated JUST enough. Cover with some newspaper, and use a brayer with just the right amount of pressure, when you see the image in the paper, lift it off, a fresh piece of paper and repeat till the image is faint. Set a fan in front of the standing screen to dry. When you see the lith go pale in color, test a corner, and when it peels easily, peel the whole of the clear film. Ready to print, as sharp as the cut image. Use water adhering films for lacquer inks, and lacquer films for water based inks. Takes some testing of method of adhering tho. Too much pressure and wash fluids and the film melts. But is quick to do if you don't want to have to use a dark room and stuff. I used this for short runs, just had the second copy near the first. Cover what your not using on the first part from the inside, some tapes stuck to the film side may pull the film off when you open it to use. Make some small tests. If you persevere, it will work well for you.
Cheers Mate, JPBill
-------------------- Bill'n'Annie Davidson Heathcote, NSW, Aus. my Aussie wife, a Toohey's Old, my Holden Ute, Retired from the rat race!
Posts: 309 | From: Heathcote, NSW, Australia | Registered: Nov 1998
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posted
well, i'm making a small (12x18) test panel and the paint mask works great, even for the 3/4" letters. i was afraid i might have some problems with the mask pulling up with the transfer tape, but it worked fine (regular, medium tack tape). there doesn't seem to be any paint creeping under the edge of the mask vinyl. (i'm using silk-screen ink which is pretty stiff, applied with a roller, and it pretty much seems to sit where you put it.)
the only problem i had was the background color didn't stick to the white enamel aluminum ... it peeled off with the paintmask vinyl... grrrr. i guess i'll have to scuff the aluminum.
i'm glad i had this problem today, and not next week when i'm working on the big pieces.
-------------------- :: Scooter Marriner :: :: Coyote Signs :: :: Oakland, CA :: :: still a beginner :: ::
Posts: 1356 | From: Oakland (and San Francisco) | Registered: Mar 2001
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well i think that you can reduce the screen ink with the thinner or retarder to make it more roll able. this might be to thin for printing but will do just well to use in this fasion. i think that you are going in the right direction to use the stecil. ive used this alot...you sould not have to scuff the aluminum just wait for the right tack to pull up the stencil...not wet ,not dry.. ( i asume that your using spray stencil and not intermediat vinyl)Avery make a low tach stencil that works well on most every smooth surface.the Nazdar 9700 series screen ink, works well on aluminum as well as vinyl and with the additive coragated plastic i order direct from nazdar 1800-537-4606 they can give you a catologe with all the tec support on all the inks you could ever want!
use alot of the water base stencil and have had alot of success with it ..check your post on waterbased stecil i left you a step by step. e-mail me if you have any more question on the silk screen stencil or spraymask..the mask works well even with big lettering when you need good coverage..can also do some cool spay blends too.
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