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I have used Mahogany and Foam. Is there any others out there. A local guy carves some type of partical board but I don't know what it is. Just looking for the full range of materials for carving.
-------------------- Rob Larkham Rob Larkham Signs & Lettering 21 Middlefield Road Chester, MA. 01011
413-354-0287 Posts: 517 | From: Chester, MA | Registered: May 2001
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Rob, I've been using eastern white pine for twenty years.....but... you need a wood shop and some fundamental knowlege about glue-up or you are going to be in trouble. Keep it on your list for small signs. Makin Chips and Havin Fun! Joe
-------------------- Joe Cieslowski Connecticut Woodcarvers Gallery P.O.Box 368 East Canaan CT 06024 jcieslowski@snet.net 860-824-0883 Posts: 2345 | From: East Canaan CT 06024 | Registered: Nov 2001
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Rob, I think I know what you are talking about but the name escapes me now.
It is a press board and swells in the elements as well. It's not supposed to but it does. I just was looking at one about a month ago right next to a sign I was installing. All the edges had swelled and expanded.
Nothing I want to use I tell ya.
-------------------- Bob Rochon Creative Signworks Millbury, MA 508-865-7330
"Life is Like an Echo, what you put out, comes back to you."
Posts: 5149 | From: Millbury, Mass. U.S. | Registered: Nov 1998
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Rob, the particle board your neighbor is carving is probably some type of exterior siding. The one that I am the most familiar with is a pine substrate exterior siding made by Werhauser under the name "Prime Siding". Unlike the stuff made from fir, this stuff carves like butter. I have a couple of signs outdoors, made from Prime Siding, that have been out there for several years and still look in good shape, but my main use of it has been indoor carved stuff.
There is an article on laminating, carving and routing the stuff in the March/April 99 issue of Sign Builder Illustrated.
-------------------- Jerry Mathel Retired Grants Pass, Oregon signs@grantspass.com
Posts: 916 | From: Grants Pass, OR USA | Registered: Dec 1998
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Turkey. You're thinking of Turkey. That's what I like carving best.
-------------------- Pierre St.Marie Stmariegraphics Kalispell,Mt www.stmariegraphics.com ------------------ Plan on knowing everything before I die and time's running out! Posts: 4223 | From: Kalispell,Mt 59903 | Registered: Mar 2000
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OSB - Oriented Strand Board is the correct calling of it. There are "densities" involved there as well.
The wood, just like any other substance, can be sealed but I also wouldn't consider it as a first choice. It's fairly inexpensive is probably why it is chosen by some people. Last I recall I built a shed with it at $5 per 4x8 sheet. That's the cheapest but you can run that up to in price once you approach the "cabinet" grades.
If you plan on routing it use a carbide bit at minimum as you'll be mostly chewing through the adhesive bonding of the highly compressed particles (stranding).
I believe the highest price I've seen for the most expensive OSB was around $20 per three quarter inch sheet so, at those prices, I think other options would be equally affordable, unless of course you're in the hardwood areas.
-------------------- Brian Cornwell AutoMotivation Plymouth - MA - USA
"The Customer Can Have Any Color He Wants So Long As It's Black" -- Henry Ford
Posts: 120 | From: Plymouth MA - USA | Registered: Nov 2001
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Basswood is a real treat to carve, and is frequently used by decoy carvers and wildlife carvers. It's a real softwood so it must be sealed really well. Western Red Cedar is another viable alternative, and the grain is somewhat similar to Redwood, but often with more knots. Balsa Wood is also another alternative, and I believe there's a company that specializes in making up Balsa wood planks specifically for carved or blasted signs.
-------------------- Ken Henry Henry & Henry Signs London, Ontario Canada (519) 439-1881 e-mail: kjmlhenry@rogers.com
Why do I get all those on-line offers to sell me Viagara, when the only thing hardening is my arteries ? Posts: 2684 | From: London,Ontario, Canada | Registered: Feb 1999
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Pacific redwood was what I learned on, and all those pieces are still in great shape. This may be a strange one, and may not be totally practical, but here goes. I picked up a scrap of 1/2 inch Sintra a while back. I started in on it with a chisel and was amazed at the nice cuts that it takes. I haven't tried a panel yet, but for smaller projects like house numbers or nameplates and framed projects, they might work well. They would certainly need the correct finish paints before gilding, but they would require no fills or sanding. The cuts are as slick as glass. Not that I have a plan to use it, but I was amazed at the results of its carvability. Jack
-------------------- "Don't change horses in midstream, unless you spot one with longer legs" bronzeo oti Jack Davis 1410 Main St Joplin, MO 64801 www.imagemakerart.com jack@imagemakerart.com Posts: 1549 | From: Joplin, MO | Registered: Mar 2000
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I am about ready to take a carving class and have a reallllly nice piece of clear vertical grain redwood. I am happy to hear that it will work!
Posts: 3729 | From: Seattle | Registered: Sep 1999
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I don't carve, but my partner Dick Clark likes HDU the best, Sugar Pine second (we can get it locally in wide planks 5/4" thick), Western Red Cedar third (again, for availability and modest cost), Redwood and Mahogany last because of high cost and scarcity. Actually, (he says) Mahogany is beautiful to carve if you can find it.
I have seen some shops around here have used MEDEX with mixed results. Give it enough time and the best finished ones will start to swell either around the edges, the mounting holes, or right at the edges of the carving - anywhere moisture can get in. Spooky stuff.
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Joe, Does the Sugar Pine hold up well to weather? The Sintra thing is just a longshot. Something I was surprised to see decent results from. I have only played with it a little......One thing I might mention here as no one has; for centuries, carvers have been carving furniture panels out of nearly every kind of wood. Oak, mahogany, cherry, walnut, monkeypod, and even ironwood in Africa. For some reason our ancestors chose much harder woods to create in on the average. Most of this probably because they were indigenous to their areas, but hardwood none the less. Joe
-------------------- "Don't change horses in midstream, unless you spot one with longer legs" bronzeo oti Jack Davis 1410 Main St Joplin, MO 64801 www.imagemakerart.com jack@imagemakerart.com Posts: 1549 | From: Joplin, MO | Registered: Mar 2000
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Jack, I wouldn't say sugar pine is hardy. It's soft with fairly consistent grain density so it's fairly predictable for carving and fairly stable against warping, but not rot. Mostly it's indiginous to my area (New England), so it's readily available. It's considered traditional around here. We prime and paint well.
About 90% or more of all our carving ends up being HDU. We only use wood nowdays if it's spec'd for a job or requested for romantic reasons. There is still a prejudice against non-wood products for some buyers.
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