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Gotta do a big trailer. 8'high and 53' long. The graphic will be a digital print. Sides of the trailer are covered with rivets, and has two corrugations running horizontally every six inches. Any ideas on the best way to do this? Wet?Dry? Any tips for quicker easier install? There will be two of us doing the install. I'd appreciate any suggestions and help in any way. First time doing this big of an install.
-------------------- Maker of fine signs and other creative stuff. Located at 109 N. Cumberland ave. Harlan, Ky. 40831 606-837-0242 Posts: 4172 | From: Ages-Brookside, Ky. Up the Holler... | Registered: Jul 1999
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Hiya John, While Glenn's advise is sound, I also suggest this link. Rivetron I've also found it to be easier to install 8' panels by using a step ladder only. Scaffolds and other fancy stuff just get in the way. Did I tell you I hate rivets!! Havin' fun, Checkers
[ November 30, 2001: Message edited by: Checkers ]
-------------------- a.k.a. Brian Born www.CheckersCustom.com Harrisburg, Pa Work Smart, Play Hard Posts: 3775 | From: Harrisburg, Pa. U.S.A. | Registered: Nov 1998
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John...Try using Rapid tac when ya apply the graphic over rivits. In fact DON'T try it with the actual graphic, try it with a scrap chunk of vinyl. See how easy it is! See how much you swear trying to get rid of the application fluid from around the rivits so that you can make it conform to the rivits.
PLEASE report your experience.
Rapid Tac and all of their other products are GREAT. I carry Rapid Prep, Rapid Tac and Rapid Remover with me on every job. In fact I buy them by the gallon. But Rapid Tac should not to be used when applying over rivits!
Don't believe me...Try it out for yourself!
[ November 30, 2001: Message edited by: Dave Grundy ]
-------------------- Dave Grundy retired in Chelem,Yucatan,Mexico/Hensall,Ontario,Canada 1-519-262-3651 Canada 011-52-1-999-102-2923 Mexico cell 1-226-785-8957 Canada/Mexico home
posted
I read recently that no matter what you use in the positioning and/or the prep the fact will remain that "first-timers" of large-scale applications will have the most problems in the handling of the large sheets with the results better "handled" using smaller "rips" of the application.
I.E.: If you now have 4 ft. by 8 ft. graphics then you'll have a much easier time applying it in smaller pieces.
I was reading this because I have also not handled anything much larger than Aviation "N" numbers in graphical sheets of 2ft. by 4ft.
Even with 2 guys large sheets would be a tad "scary"
Best of luck . . .
-------------------- Brian Cornwell AutoMotivation Plymouth - MA - USA
"The Customer Can Have Any Color He Wants So Long As It's Black" -- Henry Ford
Posts: 120 | From: Plymouth MA - USA | Registered: Nov 2001
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Large ... no problem Rivets ... no problem Corrugated ... screwed hahaha I am by no means experienced in that aspect but ... (I'm assuming panels run up/down) I would hinge all along top- peel 6-8 inches of backing down- start squeegee-ing left to right working down- peel just a little more backing- left to right working into corrugation- peel little more- be sick of it already- go back after all done and lick the rivets- get a beer
as far as the wet vs. dry I've covered thousands of rivets on 3 different jobs so far this week and have a few hundred more EARLY tomorrow (stinking meat delivery trucks... stinking literaly) I mounted over every one dry (wrong I guess ) and used rapid prep and tac on every truck. No one here is disputing the quality of product ... just a time and place for things
-------------------- Compulsive, Neurotic, Anti-social and Paranoid ... but basically Happy
Posts: 2677 | From: Rochester, NY, USA | Registered: Nov 1998
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I think one of these days I'm gonna make an mpeg file of how to do this and then upload it. People would shoot themselves when they see how easy it should be....even with rivets. I's not one of those things thats easy to describe.
-------------------- Bruce Evans Crown Graphics Chino, CA graphics@westcoach.net Posts: 913 | From: Chino, CA | Registered: Nov 1998
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I wish I could figure out how to have someone take a video of how I do it (and from Mark's website, it is the same as he does it) and turn it into a "real player" video so folks could see how really easy it is!
-------------------- Dave Grundy retired in Chelem,Yucatan,Mexico/Hensall,Ontario,Canada 1-519-262-3651 Canada 011-52-1-999-102-2923 Mexico cell 1-226-785-8957 Canada/Mexico home
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John, if I was in your situation, I would call on someone with knowledge who has done one of these jobs in person, versus lets go for it. I'm sure you have experience in many fields but when tackling a new project with little knowledge, then you open up a new can of worms. But if we don't take risks in life how exciting can life be? Buena suerte...
-------------------- aka:Cisco the "Traveling Millennium Sign Artist" http://www.franciscovargas.com Fresno, CA 93703 559 252-0935 "to live life, is to love life, a sign of no life, is a sign of no love"...Cisco 12'98 Posts: 3576 | From: Fresno, Ca, the great USA | Registered: Dec 1998
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I just finished some trailer graphics and found it easier to remove the rivets (they unscrewed easily with a star shaped bit and a handheld battery screwdriver) After the application, the holes were simple to locate and screw the rivet back in.The vinyl should be adhered well to avoid "twisting" the vinyl. After the graphics are taped on, just remove the ones that are under the lettering. If you're completely wrapping it, remove them a panel at a time. No more rivet hassles!! (can't help much on the corrugation - other than to advise charging plenty. I also concur with the beer suggestion made in an earlier post) Good Luck.
-------------------- www.signcreations.net Sonny Franks Lilburn, GA 770-923-9933 Posts: 4117 | From: Lilburn, GA USA | Registered: Feb 1999
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Thanks to everyone on the replys. Rivets we aren't that worried about, as we've had experience with those, but the corrugations are another thing. The main logo of the graphic will be around 5 feet high, but in sections,so it won't be that hard to handle with two of us working. Gregory will be doing the printing, as the customer has used them before and wants to again. I've gotten emails from other heads also with some good info, and I appreciate all the help. Actually kinda looking forward to it, as along with being a good job, it will be kind of a learning experience, hopefully not a bad one. Both of us have done alot of vinyl applications, and some digital graphics. Anyway, thanks again for the advice and info.
-------------------- Maker of fine signs and other creative stuff. Located at 109 N. Cumberland ave. Harlan, Ky. 40831 606-837-0242 Posts: 4172 | From: Ages-Brookside, Ky. Up the Holler... | Registered: Jul 1999
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Hi again John, It took me a while to find it but here's the link to 3M's web site that has graphic application instructions. 3M instruction bulletins I beleive you would be interested in reading section 5 parts 5.3 thru 5.5. 5.4 should cover corrugations Hopefully you have a fast connection, These files are big. Good luck, Checkers
[ December 02, 2001: Message edited by: Checkers ]
-------------------- a.k.a. Brian Born www.CheckersCustom.com Harrisburg, Pa Work Smart, Play Hard Posts: 3775 | From: Harrisburg, Pa. U.S.A. | Registered: Nov 1998
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I just did a big truck two weeks ago……. lots of rivets………I wasn’t sure how to deal with them…….I’ve seen guys use torches & rivet brushes before, but I had neither of those tools. I did what Dave Grundy talked about. I took some vinyl, the same type I was applying on the job and experimented.
This is what I discovered.
Apply the graphics as you would with any other similar project……best to work with manageable sizes pieces as others have said here.
So….. apply the graphics right over the rivets………then when its on, go back and work each rivet with your finger from the outside in working in circles towards the centre of the rivet ………when there is to much tension or air in the pocket, release it with a pin then work it over again (just like releasing air in a vinly air pocket. Poke the edges of the bubble and work it out the side, NOT THE CENTRE………finish it off with a squeegee around the rivets’ edges………
You might want to try using a torch and rivet brush too.
Again……….Experiment until you feel comfortable.
Good luck…….you’ll make it work!
-------------------- John Martin Robson Pendragon Signs & Graphics Yellowknife,NT,Canada
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I've just talked to the guys from the comedy channel. They are going to be over to shoot the show and tell. Seriously, I would love to watch an application of large material over these surfaces. Mine sucks pretty bad. I tried wet and all the fluid ended up at the rivets. Cut em to let it escape and the stretch will pull them open. Dry, there is more places for wrinkles than imaginable. They all seem to look fine going down the road though and I trust that your job will be just fine. A heat gun has helped some in problem areas. Good luck. Bronzeo
-------------------- "Don't change horses in midstream, unless you spot one with longer legs" bronzeo oti Jack Davis 1410 Main St Joplin, MO 64801 www.imagemakerart.com jack@imagemakerart.com Posts: 1549 | From: Joplin, MO | Registered: Mar 2000
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) and used rapid prep and tac on every truck.
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