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» The Letterville BullBoard » Old Archives » Painting PVC

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Author Topic: Painting PVC
Janette Balogh
Resident


Member # 192

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What paint should be used on pvc material?
I tried scuffing 1st, then cleaning w/ denatured alchohol, and using one shot, but the paint can be scratched off quite easily

The job entails about 50- 12" square panels in various custom colours. I'm after a satin finish rather than a gloss also.

In the past I've used vinyl ink on pvc, ... but it's so toxic/smelly and I'm needing so very little of many various colours here.

What product(s will best accomplish my needs for this job? Can I prep the panels somehow that one shot will stick, and then use some kind of dulling finish?

Thanks a bunch for any help.
Nettie

--------------------
"When Love and Skill Work Together ... Expect a Masterpiece"

Janette Balogh
Creative Studio

janette@janettebalogh.com
www.janettebalogh.com


Posts: 5092 | From: Florida | Registered: Nov 1998  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Si Allen
Resident


Member # 420

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Nettie...1Shot doesn't bond to PVC very well. Try Deka Enamel...it is a latex acrylic (no bad smell).

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Si Allen #562
La Mirada, CA. USA

(714) 521-4810

si.allen on Skype

siallen@dslextreme.com

"SignPainters do It with Longer Strokes!"

Never mess with your profile while in a drunken stupor!!!

Brushasaurus on Chat

Posts: 8831 | From: La Mirada, CA, USA | Registered: Nov 1998  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Tim Barrow
Deceased


Member # 576

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Krylon sticks pretty good too if ya can get the right type some places have different formulas according to state epa laws.

oops didin't read all the post good,...ya may need to put a coat of satin clear over the gloss to get a satin finish.

[ November 30, 2001: Message edited by: timi NC ]



--------------------
fly low...timi/NC is,
Tim Barrow
Barrow Art Signs
Winston-Salem,NC

Posts: 2224 | From: Winston-Salem,NC,USA | Registered: Nov 1998  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Dave Grundy
Resident


Member # 103

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Nettie. I painted a bunch of 1/2" pvc dimensional letters this summer. I sanded them with 300 grit sandpaper. I used automotive catalized spot putty to fill the edges and sanded that with 300 grit. Then I sprayed them with automotive basecoat/clearcoat. This resulted in a high gloss, very durable finish. If you were to use the basecoat only OR laquer paint you would end up with a matte finish. I don't know for sure but there might even be a matte finish clearcoat available.

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Dave Grundy
retired in Chelem,Yucatan,Mexico/Hensall,Ontario,Canada
1-519-262-3651 Canada
011-52-1-999-102-2923 Mexico cell
1-226-785-8957 Canada/Mexico home

dave.grundy@hotmail.com

Posts: 8899 | From: Chelem, Yucatan, Mexico/Hensall, Ontario, Canada | Registered: Nov 1998  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Jack Davis
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Member # 1408

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Janette, I would have recommended the nasty ink that you used before. Understanding the several color deal, perhaps you could just wipe down the panels with the thinner(which will eat into the surface) Maybe that would prep for a better bond. along with the sanding. Maybe even sand first so that you get full surface etching. I have never had any luck with anything but the pvc inks that eat in myself. Method untested.....Jack

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"Don't change horses in midstream, unless you spot one with longer legs" bronzeo oti
Jack Davis
1410 Main St
Joplin, MO 64801
www.imagemakerart.com
jack@imagemakerart.com

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Glenn Taylor
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Member # 162

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My first choice would be to use vinyl ink. I've got 10 year old PVC signs out there that still look good.

I've also had good success with using OneShot after I've mixed some Frog Juice with it. I used a 6:1 ratio.

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BlueDog Graphics
Wilson, NC

www.BlueDogUSA.com

Warning: A well designed sign may cause fatigue due to increased business.


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Rob Larkham
Visitor
Member # 2105

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Nettie- I have painted it in the past and just did a sign for out doors last week. I coat the PVC with Tycote first. Then paint with Oneshot. This is what the didtributor told me to use. It seems to work. The tycote dries in about 15 minutes. A hair dryer will do it in less. If you can't find the tycote anywhere e-mail me and I will get you some.

[ November 30, 2001: Message edited by: Rob Larkham ]



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Rob Larkham
Rob Larkham Signs & Lettering
21 Middlefield Road
Chester, MA. 01011

413-354-0287

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FranCisco Vargas
Deceased


Member # 145

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Nettie with a light scuff of fine sandpaper. Wipe with lacquer thinner, or denatured alcohol. Then use Chromatic ti-coat(waterborne Primer), like you would a banner, then you can use 1-shot.
That's what I will use when I do a faux painting on some pvc pipes to look like marble columns.

--------------------
aka:Cisco the "Traveling Millennium Sign Artist"
http://www.franciscovargas.com
Fresno, CA 93703
559 252-0935
"to live life, is to love life, a sign of no life, is a sign of no love"...Cisco 12'98

Posts: 3576 | From: Fresno, Ca, the great USA | Registered: Dec 1998  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Suelynn Sedor
Visitor
Member # 442

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Hi Nettie,

I was going to suggest what Glen said, but he beat me to it. I've mixed FJ with one shot and had good results painting on glossy aluminum surfaces. I forgot to add the frog to one color, and it scratched off easily, but the rest stayed on great.

Another trick I've learned is to wipe the surface with a small amount of acetone. It really dulls the finish and gives the surface some bite. It might be worth an experiment, because I've only done this on aluminum, not PVC. If it works, it would be an easy solution.

Have a great day,

Sue

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"It is never too late to be what you might have been."
-George Eliot

Suelynn Sedor
Sedor Signs
Carnduff, SK Canada


Posts: 2863 | From: Carnduff, SK Canada | Registered: Nov 1998  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Jerry Mathel
Visitor
Member # 526

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Hi Nettie,

I wrote an article for the March 2001 issue of Sign Builder Illustrated, on building with PVC, and I did quite a bit of research on paint. The engineers at 1-Shot highly recommended Chromatic Acrylic Ticoat Primer or 1-Shot 5005 White Acrylic bonding primer, top-coated with 1-Shot lettering enamel. 1-Shot also makes their 5004 Vinyl Primer which works well for interior applications, but is not recommended for outdoor use.

Hope this helps.

[ November 30, 2001: Message edited by: jmathel ]



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Jerry Mathel
Retired
Grants Pass, Oregon
signs@grantspass.com

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Ron Percell
Merchant


Member # 399

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We always used Vinyl Ink in the past, but have switched to using the following.

Mix 40% Frog Juice, 40%-50% One Shot, 5-10% One Shot Hardener, and if your spraying add 5-10% reducer.

Good Luck!

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Ron Percell
Percell Signs
707-769-0639
Petaluma, California

Letterhead Sign Supply

Home of the MicroMeet!
Percell Signs Web Site
About the Author
Ron Percell


Posts: 913 | From: Petaluma,California,U.S.A. | Registered: Nov 1998  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Rick Sacks
Resident


Member # 379

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Dear Miss Nettie,
I prefer the TiCote and 1-Shot because I Can mix anything I want colorwise. I have all the base colors. Chromatic made a dulling agent that was a varnish and the more you added the flatter it got. I don't remember the exact name for it, but Kent would.

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The SignShop
Mendocino, California

http://www.mendosign.com

Making the simple complicated is commonplace;
making the complicated simple, awesomely simple, that's creativity. — Charles Mingus

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Janette Balogh
Resident


Member # 192

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Thanks a bunch everyone!

Since I had some Frog Juice in stock, I just did a little test adding it my One Shot.
Looks like a winner! Worked great!

I actually love the results with vinyl ink best.
Glorious finish, dries in no time, and is very durable, ... but for this circumstance, I thought another route would make life simpler.

Thanks so much for all the helpful replies & a speedy fix to my dilemma!
Nettie

--------------------
"When Love and Skill Work Together ... Expect a Masterpiece"

Janette Balogh
Creative Studio

janette@janettebalogh.com
www.janettebalogh.com


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roger bailey
Merchant


Member # 556

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You folks are bound to have adhesion problems if you keep cleaning with the likes of;

Laquer thinner?

acetone?

Alcohol?

Auto wax&grease remover?
Git hip folks, Rapid prep will NOT soak into a substrate ,only to gas off later (when your paint is tryin to cure)

You may not have the experience of some who have been painting "plastic,pvc,propylene,ethelyne,etc."

But then if you use Rapid prep, it don't matter if you had the experience or not !!

The main thing is " don't make the job any harder then it needs to be " !!

Roger

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Roger Bailey
Rapid Tac Incorporated
186 Combs Dr.
Merlin Oregon
97532


Posts: 3020 | From: Merlin Oregon | Registered: Dec 1998  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
roger bailey
Merchant


Member # 556

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One more thing;

MOLEHILLS INTO MOUNTAINS

Whatever turns you on !!!!!

Roger

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Roger Bailey
Rapid Tac Incorporated
186 Combs Dr.
Merlin Oregon
97532


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Monte Jumper
Resident


Member # 1106

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Hey Nettie I got in here a little late but it sounds lke you picked the best paint for the job.

That Vinyl ink penetrates so well it is almost vandle proof(you can't scratch it off)

I also spray it with Centari and it is every bit as good looking but can be scratched...I do like the finish however and use it a lot.

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"Werks fer me...it'll werk fer you"

Monte Jumper
SIGNLanguage/Norman.Okla.
jumpers@itlnet.net


Posts: 3185 | From: Norman,Okla.U.S.A. | Registered: Sep 1999  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Deb Fowler
Resident


Member # 1039

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Cisco has some good advice there too!
deb

--------------------
Deb Fowler

"It's kind of fun to do the impossible - Walt Disney (1901-1966)

Posts: 5373 | From: Loves Park, Illinois | Registered: Aug 1999  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
   

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