If you wish to use One Shot stay clear of their maroon (takes 3 days to dry) instead mix Bright red and Brilliant or Reflex blue...it will dry overnite...Scuff the surface well with 400 grit and add hardner, don't thin it... roller coat...dress it till bubbles quit.

You'll be happy with the results!

Take Mark up on his offer!

Another tip I got from a great young signpainter from Dixon IL is to wait a few minutes before rolling it out to let some of the solvents come to the top. Hardner seems to help the paint smooth out too.

I have had second coat adhesion problems with hardner in both coats. I talked to Kevin at One Shot and he said the hardner makes the first coat dry so hard and smooth that it's too slick for the second coat to grab on tightly. Either skip the hardner in the first coat or scuff the first coat if you use hardner in both. When I had the problem, I maxed out the hardner at 10%. Maybe at 5% as in Bronzeo's method there is enough grip.

By the way, I've never needed to double coat Alumalite, just MDO.

[ November 26, 2001: Message edited by: Dave Sherby ]

Just wanted to add a tip that was passed on to me from an experienced sign buddy. He told me after you scuff the surface of a painted aluminum product, give it a quick wipe with acetone (use sparingly) This really helps cut the gloss and bites into to factory finish, leaving a good, clean surface for the new coat to go on.

I've tried it and it works for me. Anyone else use this method?

Just to add to the confusion---- Never had any real trouble with 1-shots maroon on the fading issue-- but-- it's a 2-coater going in, background or lettering. For backgrounds, straight from the can, no hardener or reducer. Roll with foam rollers, and do the nail in the roller cage bit, or, use a dry wide foam brush to kill the bubbles. With the nail for brake thing, there is a certain amount of paint lift at the start of the pull. Haven't figured out how to get around that one, yet, but the second coat takes care of the problem.

Most of the colors seem to have their own durability and fade characteristics, even in any one particular brand. I've used a lot of Ronan bulletin in years past, and never liked it. Bad for fade, but it was the availability from a fella that used to come by every month, and I got whatever I needed right off the truck. Could never make their lettering enamel work, no matter what I did to it.

Lemon yellow-- poor covering in lettering but bulletproof in background use. Doesn't fade and seems to last forever. This is 1-shot brand now. Dark blue tends to fade, brilliant blue fades a lot less. Greens tend to hold up well. Reds are variable, but a second or even a third coat of background color and the fade resistance and durability goes way up.

I did a sign about eight or nine years ago for the local fire department, bright red background, imitation gold for the lettering, black outlines, and even now it still looks pretty darn good. This thing faces West, so there is a lot of sun exposure.

Best advice I got from an old-timer when I first started out-- "put the paint on like it doesn't cost anything." Not the one thick coat versus two thin ones, just don't skimp on it.

From an article in a trade magazine written by Super Frog: For 10 year MDO signs, use lettering enamel not bulletin color.

One Shot Hardner will work in Ronan. Hardners are similar between brands, some are "hotter" than others but they will work in various oil based paints. One Shot does not make their hardner and according to Kevin it is one of the milder isocyanates, BUT, use caution. Iso's are dangerous if not used properly. I will not open a can without wearing nitrile gloves and a respirator approved for iso's. (black and purple cartridge)

Has anyone tried the method described in the Laminators Inc. booklet titled "Outdoor Signs Made Easy - Resource Guide" ?

Inside is a formula for mixing lettering enamels with frog juice at an 18:1 ratio. (18=le & 1=fj) It actually says that 9oz of le & 1/2oz fj should cover a 4x8 with one coat. Specific instructions
are included. Their phone # is: 1-800-523-2347 & website: www.signboards.com

They are the manufacturers of Alumalite & the Omega boards.

I painted this wall (pourous concrete form, primed twice with acrylic cement sealer) about 2 months ago. It was a first test for 9 other pieces like it. I went back last week and the maroon (Ronan Bulletin) was already showing faded spots. Only a pro would recognize the descrepancies, but the paint is going downhill way too quickly.

Granted, I am in Florida and there is a lot of direct sunlight on this wall, but I know that I will be double coatng the rest of the pieces to ensure coverage.

I do like Monte's idea about mixing a maroon rather than using it out of the can.