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Pelucid or Epoxy. I havent tried Pelucid yet...but the word on the street is that Pierre is gonna send out free sample gallons..and Im waitin fer mine. It sounds like a "musthave" item for the signshop. ------------------ Michael Boone Sign Painter 5828 Buerman Rd.Sodus,NY 14551 Ontime @localnet.com
[This message has been edited by Michael Boone (edited October 26, 2000).]
------------------ St.Marie Graphics & Makin' Tracks Sound Studio Kalispell, Montana stmariegraphics@centurytel.net http://www.stmariegraphics.com 800 735-8026 We're chiseling every day of the week! :^)
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Damn Dam..It would be nice if ya created a "signature file" so we could all answer your question in a personal way. Almost every one here has their "real name" in their "signature" because we don't mind telling people who we are. Just go to the "profile" thing at the top right of the page and "create a "signature file".
To answer your question..I use acrylic latex caulking to edge seal MDO. Let it cure overnight and paint away.
(don't forget to create a signature file!!! )
------------------ Dave Grundy shop#340 AKA "applicator" on mIRC "stickin' sticky stuff to valuable vessels and vehicles!" in Granton, Ontario, Canada 1-519-225-2634 dave.grundy@quadro.net www.quadro.net/~shirley "A PROUD $ supporter of the website"
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get a tube of silicone ........ squish some out on your finger (norwegian paint brush) and smear it in all the little groves and holes. wait for it to dry.......and paint!
------------------ "surf" or "MoJo54" on mirc Cheryl J Nordby Signs by Cheryl (206) 300-0153 Seattle WA.....! I've got my Mojo working........ http://signsbycheryl.homestead.com/home.html
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I used to seal the edges with Cheryl's method, until the day I picked up a hemongous wood sliver in my finger. These days, I use a special little tool that I devised expressly for this purpose. What they are, is two flat paint scrapers, with a notch ground out of the end...one with a 1/2 inch width, and the other with a 3/4 inch width. These notches are about 1/4 inch deep. I run a bead of Acrylic PAINTABLE caulking around the perimeter of the panel, using more where there are voids or holes. Then I slip the appropriate sized notched scraper onto the edge of the panel, angle it slightly, and go around the perimeter. The tool forces the calking into any voids, and seals the edges efficiently, without the risk of slivers.
Hope this helps.
------------------ Ken Henry Henry & Henry Signs London, Ontario Canada (519) 439-1881 e-mail kjmlhenry@home.
Some days you get to be the dog....other days, you get to be the fire hydrant.
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I don't seal the edges of MDO with anything other than the three coats of paint that go on the surface. But...I don't use MDO for anything other than re-facing my two highway bulletins. For regular painted sign work, I prefer aluminum or one of the aluminum/plastic laminates.
I soured on MDO many years ago, though I came up in this trade working with it almost exclusively. I feel it just isn't worth all the work for no longer than it lasts.
Other things that I feel are not worth the effort anymore:
1.Eating crablegs.You do all the work and pay them? No, thank you. Messy. Frustrating. Next course. 2.Folding socks. All mine look alike. What's the point? 3.Winding up the cord on my vacuum cleaner. Like anybody's going to see it in the closet? 4.Arguing with my wife. You need this explained?
And, of course, painting MDO.
These things are not in any sort of order, and I will still do some of them on occasion, though I don't enjoy it.
MDO lost Favored Substrate status long ago. I used to be impressed by Signal MDO (Simpson's top grade), but it's still plywood. When I order MDO, it gets coated out and then goes directly into exile on a billboard. It gets nailed up, too. Screws are not to be wasted. It may warp to its heart's content. I will simply ignore it till repaint time in 24 months. Maybe I will put more nails in it then. If I feel like it, and if I remember the hammer.
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We use a system similar to Ken's. We put the dado blades into the table saw set to cut half inch groove. Setthe blade to a bit over half inch high, set the fence and slid a scrap of mdo over blade making the cut until there was a sharp edge on the ramp we created. We made similar ramps for three quarter inch material also. We buy the caulk in a tube, but we squirt a bit into a paper cup and add just a tad of water and stir it up, getting it a bit more spreadable. We can smear it onto the board or the ramp. When we walk around the edge, we can change the angle of the ramp to deposit more material or remove more. Was this explanation at all clear?
------------------ The SignShop Mendocino, California "Where the Redwoods meet the Surf"
Posts: 6718 | From: Mendocino, CA. USA | Registered: Nov 1998
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posted
I use trim cap myself, but, sometimes I forget to order... Try a product called "Water Puddy"(available at most hardware stores) It's kinda like wood dough but is a powder that mixes with water - a plastic based product- ready to paint in about 5 minutes. P.S. How many tubes of silicone have you used only 1/4 of... only to find 'em dry as a bone the next time?
------------------ Tommy-Bama Boy- D*SIGN*R "With each completed job...Our SALES-FORCE increases!"
Posts: 20 | From: Hanceville, Alabama - USA | Registered: Oct 2000
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hey dam.....if you know my old friend don paridise?...has a tow truck and does body work in fort kent, got a chopped top 53 studebaker....tell him my right name and that i said howdy...
------------------ joe pribish-A SIGN MINT 2811 longleaf Dr. pensacola, fl 32526 850-944-5060 BEWARE THE TRUTH.....YOU MAY NOT LIKE WHAT YOU FIND
[This message has been edited by old paint (edited October 26, 2000).]
Posts: 11582 | From: pensacola, fl. usa | Registered: Nov 1998
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posted
If you cut your signs with a table saw, then the trim cap will work. If you cut custom shapes, a filler is needed. We seldom find the tube dried with 3/4 of it remaining. 1/4 remaining might happen though.
------------------ The SignShop Mendocino, California "Where the Redwoods meet the Surf"
Posts: 6718 | From: Mendocino, CA. USA | Registered: Nov 1998
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posted
If you look in the Sep/Oct issue of Signcraft on page 56 there is an excellent article by Raymond Chapman on the very thing that you need to know. Hope that helps.
------------------ Drane Signs Sunshine Coast Nambour, Qld. dranesig@dingoblue.net.au Downunder "Those who have suceeded at anything and not mentioned luck are kidding themselves" - Larry King;)
Posts: 965 | From: Nambour, Qld. Australia | Registered: Nov 1998
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posted
Trim cap is good, but it don't do shaped stuff too well, Two Part Epoxy and a rigged putty knife like mentioned is best. It never dries till mixed, absolutely no waste.
I personally like alumalite, or lumabrite, or aluma****, but aluminum does not hold up as well in chemical plants as lumacite does. The salt air down here on the gulf coast does not like a lot of products that others love so much. Bill
------------------ Bill & Barbara Biggs Art's Sign Service, Inc. Clute, Texas, USA Home of The Great Texas Mosquito Festival Proud second year Supporter of the Letterheads Website MailTo:twobeesusa@netscape.net
Posts: 1020 | From: Lake Jackson,Tx | Registered: Nov 1998
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posted
I use alot of mdo, and I do alot of shaped signs. I very seldom do a sign that isn't shaped. I always use exterior wood filler. Stuff goes on easy with a putty knife,and sands easy too. Gives it a really smooth edge. Give it a whirl.
------------------ John Deaton III Deaton Signs&Grafix 109 N. Cumberland Ave.,Harlan, Ky. 40831 606-573-9101
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The real truth is, I quit worrying about it...I have yet to have a customer call and tell me he wants the edges repainted after a year or two of use.
However I found the quickest solution to cut edges is to coat them with automotive lacquer primer (fill n' sand grey)two qick coats with a white haired fitch) will allow you to finish coat in about 15 minutes and I have noticed these edges hold up longer than just priming with block out.
"werks fer me it'll werk fer you"
------------------ Monte Jumper SIGNLanguage/Norman.Okla.
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Years ago, I called Simpson for their recommendation on edge sealing. They recommended a product made by Imperial Paint Co.( in Oregon I believe ) I have been using it for over 15 years with really good results. It was really potent and probably toxic up til about 4 years ago, now it is water-based and lasts longer and still seems to work well. I blot this stuff on with a cheap sponge ( synthetic ) 2 coats for good signs, 1 coat for shorter term use. It goes on the bare wood edge, before priming. I have MDO signs out there that looked good for 12 years and passable for longer than that. If you want the phone # for Imperial Paint, E-mail me and I'll dig it up.
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