posted
I need help! Every sandblasted sign I have made, the stencil peels up the wood between grains. We have tried the Sign Life product, but still have not had any luck. Someone said to try spraying Super 77 spray adhesive down then put your stencil down.
I would love any input on this subject.
Thanks-a-million
------------------ Justin Booher Vital Signs, Inc. Edmond, OK 405/348-7227 "Custom Hand Crafted Signage!"
Posts: 33 | From: Edmond, OK U.S.A. | Registered: May 1999
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posted
We use FirstStep from SignLife. Let it dry thoroughly. Use Anchor medium tack stencil. No more problems with peelup.
We started out using Hartco high tack stencil and experienced the same problems. It just pulled the grain up left us with a mess. Some signs did better than others.
Are you still using the high tack?
------------------ Wayne Webb Webb Sign Studio,Inc. creators of "woodesigns" "autograph your work with excellence" webbsignstudio@digitalexp.com
Posts: 7404 | From: Chipley,Florida,United States | Registered: Oct 1999
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The biggest problem, regardless of brand, is the "high tack" adhesive. Since switching to "Medium Tack", I can even prepaint the sign blank before blasting.
------------------ ********** “During my service in the United States Congress, I took the initiative in creating the Internet.” (Al Gore, CNN’s “Late Edition with Wolf Blitzer,” March 9, 1999) **********
Warning: A well designed sign may cause fatigue due to increased business.
:) Design is Everything! :) Glenn Taylor in beautiful North Carolina
posted
We have been using the medium tack stencil. My problem might be not giving the clear primer time to dry. It does try to touch very fast. We had been wating about 4-5 hours before applying the stencil.
------------------ Justin Booher Vital Signs, Inc. Edmond, OK 405/348-7227 "Custom Hand Crafted Signage!"
Posts: 33 | From: Edmond, OK U.S.A. | Registered: May 1999
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posted
We don't mess with anything unless it at least dries overnight.
Let that first step dry a couple of days depending on humidity.
You only need a thin coat. I like to thin with a little toluene(you can use either toluene or xylene) and I just spray it on with a conventional spraygun. I get a nice slick coat that way and the thinner also helps it to penetrate the wood fibers.
You can then prepaint with either Bulletin Enamel (One Shot or Ronan) or acrylic latex enamel. We've had excellent results and longevity from the latter.
Let the paint cure for a WHOLE WEEK.
Don't let the blast pressure exceed 90 lbs.
Keep your nozzle moving accross the sign rapidly, constantly, and not too close.
I'll never go back to blasting raw wood. Never say never? haha
------------------ Wayne Webb Webb Sign Studio,Inc. creators of "woodesigns" "autograph your work with excellence" webbsignstudio@digitalexp.com
Posts: 7404 | From: Chipley,Florida,United States | Registered: Oct 1999
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posted
Drying time has a lot to do with it. When I prepaint before blasting, I use an oil base primer and then two top coats of lettering enamel. I allow a minimum of 24 hours between each coat. You have to let each coat dry THOROUGHLY before you apply the mask.
------------------ ********** “During my service in the United States Congress, I took the initiative in creating the Internet.” (Al Gore, CNN’s “Late Edition with Wolf Blitzer,” March 9, 1999) **********
Warning: A well designed sign may cause fatigue due to increased business.
:) Design is Everything! :) Glenn Taylor in beautiful North Carolina
posted
Drying time has a lot to do with it. When I prepaint before blasting, I use an oil base primer and then two top coats of lettering enamel. I allow a minimum of 24 hours between each coat. You have to let each coat dry THOROUGHLY before you apply the mask.
------------------ ********** “During my service in the United States Congress, I took the initiative in creating the Internet.” (Al Gore, CNN’s “Late Edition with Wolf Blitzer,” March 9, 1999) **********
Warning: A well designed sign may cause fatigue due to increased business.
:) Design is Everything! :) Glenn Taylor in beautiful North Carolina
posted
Justin,Use a good brand of Lacquer sanding sealer...let it rest over nite (or 4 hours on a good hot day,you know we have plenty of those)apply your stencil but don't roll it down til it has been cut and weeded, then just prior to blasting roll it down with a brayer. Call me if you have any other questions...I'd be glad to help.
------------------ Monte Jumper SIGNLanguage/Norman.Okla.
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