Here's a question for Glenn; sounds like you do screen printing, right? OK, so what is that method of screen printing where you don't have all that build-up of ink that eventually cracks (even though it's s'posed to be STRETCH ink) and the ink is as soft as the shirt and where the finest of line-work and color matching is available? And don't tell me this doesn't exist cuz I've seen really cool biker shirts done this way! Been trying to find this out for years...

Concientious guy that you are Glenn, I just know you'll have a well researched answer for me, even if you have to get on the 'net to India or sompin'!!

Actually, depending on the fabric, there are a couple different answers.

First, If the shirts you are refering to were printed in Europe, I suspect the ink used was a water-based ink. Some of your bigger screenprinting operations would use discharge inks. Lets take a black t-shirt in this case. I would discharge the dye (kinda like bleaching) out of the fabric. This would leave a near white base image. Then I would screenprint the various colors on top of the discharged area. Water-based inks, if applied properly will "dye" the fabric, thereby creating the extremely soft feel.

If the shirts you are refering to were printed in the US, then they more than likely used plastisol inks (which is probably what you are using). To get that extremely soft feel, there are some factors involved.

1) Mesh Counts: The average screenprinting shop will use a 110 to 160 mesh on a standard wooden frame. Your highend shops will use between 305 and 355.

2) Tension: The average screen with a wood frame is stretched to between 12 and 17 newtons. If an aluminum frame is used, then a tension of about 20 to 24 newtons can be maintained. If you are using a retentionable frame such as a Hix, Newman, or a Glue-on Stretch Frame, then 30 Newtons is the prefered tension.

3) Additives: Then there are things like using soft-hand and curable reducers. If you are using a low mesh count, then soft-hand is the additive of choice. If you are using a high mesh count and ultra high tension, then a curable reducer is your preference.

4) Art: One of the most overlooked factors is the art itself. A good artist will factor in such matters as fabric type and as much open/exposed fabric. Lets take the matter of printing on a black shirt. If your design has black in it, then use the color of the fabric itself. This will aid in the feel of the print.
Also, the LPI in which the positives are produced in are important. If you are using 110 to 158 mesh, then about all you can hold is 35 LPI; 45 LPI for 305 mesh; and 65 LPI for 355 mesh.

5) Fabric: You probably already know this, but printing on 100% cotton fabric will produce a softer feel than printing on a 50/50% blend. Also, printing on a dark 50/50 blend shirt presents its own problems when the dyes used on the polyester tend to migrate into the inks as the shirts are run through a dryer at 320+ degrees (the dyes turn into a gas).

6) Pressure: A lot of screenprinters think they have to apply a lot of pressure when pulling a squeegee. WRONG. All you get is a very tired screenprinter in a very short amount of time. When pulling the squeegee (I prefer to push the squeegee - it requires less effort), all you are looking to do a lay the ink on the surface of the fabric, not down into it. A sharp squeegee is needed to "shear" the ink, not push it down into the fabric.

All of these things applied properly will achieve the feel you are looking for.

I completed two jobs a few weeks ago that were probably what you had in mind. One involved printing 4 color process on Ash colored sweatshirts (it required a white base). The other involved printing 6 colors on a Lime colored t-shirts for a high school marching band.

Here's what I used....

1) A 20+ year old 6/4 manual press.
2) Retentionable screens with 305 mesh stretched to exactly 30 Newtons.
3) 80 durometer squeegees with a sharp edge.
4) General purpose inks that have been modified "slightly" to lower the viscosity of the ink.

The end result was a printed image that didn't feel like it was there. Its easier to do with an automatic press, but it can be done with a basic manual press.

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I almost forgot.....

The black biker's t's (Harley's) are usually done with "simulated process colors". Typically this involves using two whites and between 5, 9, or even 11 spot colors. Using process inks on black shirts have a drawback because of the limited color gamut. Simulated process has a much wider color gamut. Also, the vast majority of these shirts are printed on 355 mesh at 65 LPI.

[ October 22, 2001: Message edited by: Glenn Taylor ]

Lemme know what you need me to do. I'm slow right now.

Considering this is the "Letterheads on Mars" I Would probably recommend the bright green. However, for cost considerations, good looks, comfort, wearability and ease of print - I would go with my # 1 seller, natural. Natural shirts cost the same as white, look good with almost anything on them, and are exceptionally comfortable.

I would agree and disagree with a lot of what Glenn said, but since all you asked was what color shirt, I wont get into it here.

One thing I would add though - glow in the dark ink. It goes on clear so you can put it over anything on the design (well, the brighter colors at least). I like the stuff, since it makes people go 'oooohh... ahhh..."

Anyone interested in seeing the actual artwork (minus the color...)?

Someone might need to tell me how to do it, though, cuz like, I'm a neandrethal/goober/schmuck when it comes to computer stuff--gimmee a pen & leemee 'lone is my motto!

A) art is too big for a normal scanner, which I don't have one of anyway...
B) so then what?

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Robb,

Waddayamean you disagree with me about some schtuff! Don't you know that I'm always right?!

A digital camera!! D'OH, of course! My buddy Slewfoot (of Milwaukee Panel Jam fame...) has a digital camera & has put stuff on disk for me before--maybe this time he'll do it for free as a humanitarian gesture (hint hint...)!! Otherwise all I can do is FAX each and every one of you a personal copy

OK, I'll get on it right away chief!!

Adjusted as requested. I like neon green too. Love those eyes!

[ November 24, 2001: Message edited by: Debbie Delzell ]

Thanx for setting up the (non-color) art here, and thanx to Slewfoot for shooting it with his digital camera.

Now if we can figure out how to put up that COLOR mock-up I sent Jill the other day...And just where IS the Beans, anyhow?

As the "artiste" I recommend a NEON GREEN T-shirt! How's them apples, gang?

Last I heard Jill was having problems with her e-mail. She will show up soon unless it snows?

As the artist I think you should get to pick the color. Neon green looks good and may be cooler then black in August. When I had a vision of your alien I was thinking less backgound. But having seen the drawing now I like the green better. Thanks for showing the work in progress.

quote:

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Originally posted by Kissymatina:
Well Jill, I like the black but considering most people will want to wear theirs during the meet, and we both know what August is like here. ... I would say Ash or the green. PLEASE NO PINK!!!

Lemme know what you need me to do. I'm slow right now.

Going to Latrobe tonight to have a beer and tell lies with Alan Checca. One of these days the 3 of us need to hook up somewhere to have a beer and tell lies.

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