posted
getting prepared to rout a sign. considering which side to rout. looking down the piece from the end- the growth rings tail up on left & right- rout top or bottom? thanks, sunny
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Posts: 30 | From: Tehachapi, California U.S.A. | Registered: Jan 1999
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posted
Well, I hope the picture comes out - it will warp towards the open grain > ( > twp things you may do to check this is (1) alternate grain direction as you laminate if you are using more than 1 board or (2) treat both sides equally as you finish (primer and paint.
------------------ "If it isn't fun, why do it?" Signmike@aol.com Mike Languein Doctor of Letters BS, MS, PhD ___________________
You know what BS is, MS is More of the Same, and it's Piled Higher and Deeper here
------------------ ********** “During my service in the United States Congress, I took the initiative in creating the Internet.” (Al Gore, CNN’s “Late Edition with Wolf Blitzer,” March 9, 1999) **********
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posted
Oh, I forgot to mention - if you use Kiln Dried (with the KD Palco stamp on the end) it will warp a lot less than if you are using construction grade.
------------------ "If it isn't fun, why do it?" Signmike@aol.com Mike Languein Doctor of Letters BS, MS, PhD ___________________
You know what BS is, MS is More of the Same, and it's Piled Higher and Deeper here
posted
Mike, Thanks for the tips- as usual I don't fully explain everything- my question is if wood is removed from one side of the board, the integrity of the wood's warping tendency is decreased or increased. I understand your diagrams. Now which sides removal of wood (routing) is least apt to compromise the wood's integrity- (looking from the end with the rings of the grain tailing up)
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Posts: 30 | From: Tehachapi, California U.S.A. | Registered: Jan 1999
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posted
I would remove material from the side away from the warp direction. > ( Top side in this pic (if it shows). That will weaken the piece and cause it to tend to warp back toward the removal side, depending how much you're taking out. I no longer try to use 12 inch wide material for sand blasting. 10 is as much as I want to use and even less is better, and edge laminate alternating grain direction. Especially when using inexpensive woods. This way the alternate warping checks itself and the piece will average out as a straighter panel than if all the boards are allowed to warp in the same direction.
------------------ "If it isn't fun, why do it?" Signmike@aol.com Mike Languein Doctor of Letters BS, MS, PhD ___________________
You know what BS is, MS is More of the Same, and it's Piled Higher and Deeper here
posted
Just curious, Why not use verticaL grain redwood? Vertical grain redwood is far more stable and doesn't "split off" or warp like flat grain does. I have some cut out 3'' individual letters from vertical grain redwood which have been in the weather for about 12 years and not one has split or warped. They're intact.
Are you hand routing or using a CNC router? The only problem you might have with vertical grain when routing is "kick off" off the corners of letters as the bit rounds corners. This can be compensated for when hand routing but I don't know about CNC. But, if you are using a v-groove bit this shouldn't be a problem.
------------------ Wayne Webb Webb Sign Studio,Inc. creators of "woodesigns" "autograph your work with excellence" webbsignstudio@digitalexp.com
Posts: 7404 | From: Chipley,Florida,United States | Registered: Oct 1999
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posted
The only wood Palco dries in the kiln is vertical, heart grain and it is the most stable - also more expensive and getting harder and harder to find. Heart is from towards the center of the tree, if it has lighter colored (blonde) wood that part is from out close to the bark. It looks pretty in redwood, but is weaker.
------------------ "If it isn't fun, why do it?" Signmike@aol.com Mike Languein Doctor of Letters BS, MS, PhD ___________________
You know what BS is, MS is More of the Same, and it's Piled Higher and Deeper here
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