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» The Letterville BullBoard » Old Archives » Faux aged steel how to info req'd

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Author Topic: Faux aged steel how to info req'd
David Fisher
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Member # 107

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I've got myself one fugly ute (pickup?) that I am in the process of doing some panel beating on.
I've been tossing around a few ideas on what/how to paint it up when I'm finshed and I've decided I'd like to paint faux rivetted overlapping steel panels over a large part of it.
I've done plenty of spraying so the detail work I have a handle on, my question is what methods can be used to create the distressed/aged steel finish for the basis of the design?
I'm initially thinking a grey base coat with a bit of red oxide thrown in then a fine dark grey spatter glaze and a hit of slightly tinted clear over the top after the detail work is done.
Other experiences?
Rod? Mike? Anyone?
TIA,
David

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David Fisher
D.A. & P.M. Fisher Services
Brisbane Australia
da_pmf@yahoo.com
Trying out a new tag:
"Parents are the bones on which children cut their teeth
Peter Ustinov

Posts: 1450 | From: Brisbane Queensland Australia | Registered: Nov 1998  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
VICTORGEORGIOU
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Member # 474

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Have no idea how you would so something like that, but be sure you give us some pics when you are done. Sounds verrry interesting! Vic G

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Victor Georgiou
Danville, CA , USA

Posts: 1746 | From: Danville, CA , USA | Registered: Dec 1998  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Kathy Joiner
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Member # 1814

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David I'm not certain I understand what you mean by aged. Do you mean rust? As in oxidized? If so how about a strong chlorine solution.

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Kathy Joiner
River Road Graphics
41628 River Road
Ponchatoula, La.70454

Old enough to know better...Too young to resist.

Posts: 1891 | From: Ponchatoula, LA | Registered: Nov 2000  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Mike Pipes
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Member # 1573

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Why not just rivet rusty beat-up steel panels to the ute then clearcoat over the whole thing? No distressing/aging needed that way, it's already done.

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"If I share all my wisdom I won't have any left for myself."

Mike Pipes
stickerpimp.com
Lake Havasu, AZ
mike@stickerpimp.com

Posts: 8746 | From: Lake Havasu, AZ USA | Registered: Jun 2000  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
David Fisher
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Member # 107

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Thanks for the suggestion Kathy, I would like to paint the finish and I'm hoping someone has a technique to get a credible result.
David

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David Fisher
D.A. & P.M. Fisher Services
Brisbane Australia
da_pmf@yahoo.com
Trying out a new tag:
"Parents are the bones on which children cut their teeth
Peter Ustinov

Posts: 1450 | From: Brisbane Queensland Australia | Registered: Nov 1998  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Michael Boone
Deceased


Member # 308

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You need the input of a New Yorker..Upstate New Yorker...they spread tons of salt on the roads here in winter to melt snow...
Lemmie get a camera and go to the boneyard....
You will be amazed at what salt/water/air in combination does to a vehicle...
Back me up.....Bruce....is New York not the "rotten vehicle" capitol of the world?

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Michael Boone
Sign Painter
5828 Buerman Rd.Sodus,NY 14551

Posts: 3223 | From: Sodus,NY,USA | Registered: Dec 1998  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Dan Sawatzky
Resident


Member # 88

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We do quite a bit of this type of thing with our stuff. We do very little spray work, but rather do it all with brushes and other tools.

First off get some good reference pics of rust you like. Keep them handy.

For the rusty look we use bits of natural sponges dipped in the appropriate color. Dry out the sponges on some newspaper of scrap first and go at it until it looks right.

The rivets are easy... make a mask with holes of the correct size. spray on the shadows, sponge on the rust and then spray on the highlights.

I too look forward to seeing the finished pics.

-dan

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Dan Sawatzky
Imagination Corporation
Yarrow, British Columbia
dan@imaginationcorporation.com
http://www.imaginationcorporation.com

Being a grampa is one of the the most wonderful things in the world!!!


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Adrienne Pereira
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Member # 1046

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They beat me to it!! I was going to suggest asking Dan or Mike Languein about fauxing stuff like that....and yeah, Michael's correct...I've seen his truck........
A

Please post a pic of the finished job for us!

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Adrienne Pereira
Splash Signs

Port Angeles, WA
----------------
"Sure, it's colder in the Northwest, but...it's a damp cold!"

360-477-5656
splashsigns@msn.com


Posts: 4873 | From: Port Angeles, Washington, USA | Registered: Sep 1999  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Jack Davis
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Member # 1408

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About 3 weeks ago their was a post on faux rust on signs. You might dig it up trough search with a little effort. The author was wanting to simulate rust on a hanging signframe, and their was some good answers......For any of you that would like to create real rust on steel, take 1 part clorox and 2 parts vinegar, mix, and drop a nail in it. It will rust right before your eyes. Steel wool will disappear in about a minute. It is amazing. bronzeo ..... be very careful

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"Don't change horses in midstream, unless you spot one with longer legs" bronzeo oti
Jack Davis
1410 Main St
Joplin, MO 64801
www.imagemakerart.com
jack@imagemakerart.com

Posts: 1549 | From: Joplin, MO | Registered: Mar 2000  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Ryan E Young
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Member # 2325

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David What you are doing is pretty simple. I paint alot of helmets and motorcycles using this effect. I use a base coat/clear coat system using House of Kolor materials. I would suggest painting everything with a light silver, then pinstripe or tape off the gaps between your panels. I then would mix up HOK candies, I use tangerine and a root beer mix, this gives a transparent rust effect. Using the airbrush I try to imagine how water would run off of a vehicle, you can add puddles and alot of streaks gradually building up your paint. Then add your rivets and run streaks off of the rivets. This is a really quick abbreviation of the process, I would really suggest checking out Craig Fraser's book (Automotive Cheap Tricks and Special F/X). Try going to www.Coastairbrush.com they sell it. It's definately worth the money, I'm sorry I can't write in more detail, but I can't type very well, I'm more comfortable with a brush. This post took me 45 minutes, ha ha!!!

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Ryan Young
Indocil Art & Design
indocil@comporium.net
803-980-6765


I highjacked Letterville!!
Winter Muster 2004

Posts: 904 | From: Rock Hill, SC | Registered: Sep 2001  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Mike Languein
Visitor
Member # 319

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I do a little bit of this sort of thing at Disneyland. We use water base Mann Brother's acrylic paints, but any brand should work as well, or you can use One Shot & thinner but it will take longer to dry.

#2) Get a bunch of spray bottles, mix up some rust color= burnt sienna, venetian red, raw umber, black, (1 in each bottle) and one of clear water. Spray the color at the top and as it runs down keep it wet with the clear water 'til it forms the image you want; not so much streaks and rivulets as larger stains. Use a heat gun or hair dryer, and overlap rust colors. Add detail with a brush and/or Q-Tips.

#1) Have Fun...

You can get different metallic shades for the underbase with different brands and colors of "silver", aluminum, cast iron, etc. in spray cans (check out Eastwood Automotive products) or you can mix black into One Shot imitation Silver for different looks.


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