posted
I'd appreciate a brief run down on some differences between Japan and Cobalt and other dryers? When is it appropriate to use which? Are they all interchangable?
-------------------- The SignShop Mendocino, California
Making the simple complicated is commonplace; making the complicated simple, awesomely simple, that's creativity. — Charles Mingus Posts: 6806 | From: Mendocino, CA. USA | Registered: Nov 1998
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posted
Up early, aren't we. In the past I added japan dryers in enamel but felt that it wasn't really necessary in my line of work as I believed it effected the opacity. I guess I feel using the correct paint to each project cured my reasons for using just one line of paint.
-------------------- HotLines Joey Madden - pinstriping since 1952 'Perfection, its what I look for and what I live for'
posted
Hey Rick,.... In the past we used alot of colbalt driers in the bulletin enamels to make certain colors dry like background enamels. In conversations with certain paint manufacturers that is what they used to include as an additive in the fast dry background enamels to accelerate drying time. I'm not sure but I think they are no longer used all that much because the epa considers them a hazardous material in the industrial grade strength. This was not at all like the small bottles you get in art supply stores but much stronger. The one problem with driers is although they accelerate drying time the end paint film is much more brittle when using the colbalt driers.This is not good if the paint film goes on a flexible surface such as banners or somthing ya don't want cracking in the long run. Their use on outdoor billboard panels was effective if the ad only needed to be up for a year or so,but long term ads would deteriate much faster when we used the driers. As for japan driers they tend to form a skin & dry the paint film on the top layer & leave a skin. This is a situation asking for disaster such as wrinkleing etc on subsequent coats,Or vinyl application. In practical use I would avoid driers unless you have alot of experience with them as the paint companies have already added driers to the formulas in proper quantities. One more note,...if you want to accelerate the drying time of one shot or chromatic try adding some hardener. Not only does it speed up the drying time but it also makes the paint film stronger on the end product. Otherwise you might consider using an automotive finish that is sprayed to speed up production times. hope this helps ya!
-------------------- fly low...timi/NC is, Tim Barrow Barrow Art Signs Winston-Salem,NC Posts: 2224 | From: Winston-Salem,NC,USA | Registered: Nov 1998
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we have used dryers from time to time. we have switched to using the hardners from one shot instead. like timi said, it accelerates the drying time while making the paint harder. we add hardner to striping colors to be able to kick them out the door a little faster.
have a great one!
Posts: 6464 | From: Saint Cloud, Minnesota | Registered: Jun 1999
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posted
I was going to post a question last week, but hesitated and will now as it is on this line of thought. I was using One Shot black over an antique sanded down lead base railroad sign. The OS would not dry at all. Maybe/Sorta over 3 days, but was a lot wetter than tacky. After a full week I decided to use an overcoat with Japan Drier in it at max. recommended use. It accelerated the first coat to dry in about a day to where you could touch it. Does't the mfgs, put a drier in their paints and they can evaporate down after a while and/or be removed in the de-skinning process? The only other thing that was done was a coat of phosphoric acid to kill surface rusting. The white OS dried fairly well with Japan Drier in it.(about normal) Either my original drying agents were gone, or their was a chemical reaction on the surface against the black only???? I guess I should use a small dab on another surface to test it's dry ability there. Weird experience--A week with wet paint. bronzeo
[ September 23, 2001: Message edited by: bronzeo ]
-------------------- "Don't change horses in midstream, unless you spot one with longer legs" bronzeo oti Jack Davis 1410 Main St Joplin, MO 64801 www.imagemakerart.com jack@imagemakerart.com Posts: 1549 | From: Joplin, MO | Registered: Mar 2000
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posted
I have a can of liquid lead dryer from years back. Occassionally I use it sparingly when needed, and notice that it reduces the gloss. I've needed to accelerate drying on vinyl banners, and the hardener doesn't seem like the logical use on flexable material that has the enamel coating that's so sensitive.
-------------------- The SignShop Mendocino, California
Making the simple complicated is commonplace; making the complicated simple, awesomely simple, that's creativity. — Charles Mingus Posts: 6806 | From: Mendocino, CA. USA | Registered: Nov 1998
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posted
Be sure to hang that sign way up high...with all that lead in it we wouldn't want someones unsupecting child to suck on it or worse yet chew a corner off it and make 'em stupid when they get to kindergarten.
A lot of that goin around ya know...
Actually the One Shot hardner doesn't seem to make the paint so brittle as much as it adds to the "grip" of the paint. I used it on "Baby Doll" and saw it again at "duck Soup" and it looked great (still flexible too)
On the hardners I've used both and really can't say they ever made that much difference except if you add too much Japan drier to your paint it will go in the opposite direction and slow the drying. btdt
Good luck...
[ September 26, 2001: Message edited by: Monte Jumper ]
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