I hoped the first time I posted a pic of this sign would be in the portfolio section all finished, but I'm in the middle of a bit of a nightmare first and I'm hoping someone out there can help!
I've given this sign two coats of primer and two coats of One Shot and out of curiousity I stuck a piece of masking tape down on it this morning and gave a bit of a tug and this is what I found. The paint is not sticking AT ALL !!! It's been dry for almost two weeks and I can peel it off in sheets!
I suspect it's the primer (pictured) I thought I was doing something good by buying a primer specifically for cedar, which the sign-blank is, but maybe I should've just used a regular all purpose primer?
I'm thinking of switching to a water based paint now, (advised by Marg at Canadian Signcrafters Supply) but another question is- do I have to completely strip the old primer off? It was oil based. Can I just sand it a bit and continue with a water based system? (primer and paint?)
My intention is also to carve and gold leaf so I'm sure there will be many more questions to follow!! Luckily the sign is for a family member who has been VERY patient with me!
posted
I'm afraid if the one shot isn't adhering to the existing primer you will need to remove the rest of the one shot to keep from having problems in the future.No paint is any better than the paint it is on top of.I would try to remove as much of the dark green as possible. You might try pressure washing the panel if it is sealed well and the one shot isn't sticking to the primer. To remedy the adhesion problem,once any loose paint is removed,I would try another water based primer available to you,that you know the one shot will adhere well to.I personally always try to scuff latex primer between & before any coats of one shot,making sure to clean & prep any sanding dust.This is easy to do on a smooth panel but not always that easy on a blasted one.
hope this helps ya!
------------------ fly low...timi/NC is,.....Tim Barrow Barrow Art Signs Winston-Salem,NC artistsfriend.com/signs
[This message has been edited by timi NC (edited September 06, 2001).]
posted
I would be willing to bet the primer wasn't compatable with the one shot. You could contact the manufacturer for advice. I personally would clean it up really well, sand, apply another coat of the same primer, sand again and proceed using a satin finish latex house paint of the same brand.
------------------ Kathy Joiner River Road Graphics 41628 River Road Ponchatoula, La.70454 PH. (504)386-3313 casey@i-55.com
Old enough to know better...Too young to resist.
Posts: 1891 | From: Ponchatoula, LA | Registered: Nov 2000
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posted
cant see if its a water based or oil primer..this may be your problem....if its a water based primer....ive been usin KILZ oil base a lot of years and never have a problem with other paint binding to it....also you could have a bad can of green paint...was it old, or half a can...with a lot of the vehicles evaporated out of it? did you handle the piece a lot, was you sweating while handling it, body oils will cause this. and yes if it peeled in one spot..you need to remove it all!
------------------ joe pribish-A SIGN MINT 2811 longleaf Dr. pensacola, fl 32526 850-944-5060 BEWARE THE TRUTH.....YOU MAY NOT LIKE WHAT YOU FIND
Posts: 11582 | From: pensacola, fl. usa | Registered: Nov 1998
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posted
Thanks for the input. The primer that's on there now is oil based. To switch to water based, does that primer need to be completely sanded off down to bare wood again? It's no problem removing the green. It doesn't seem to have "hooked" at all! I'm sticking masking tape to it and giving it a tug and up it comes. I did the other side this morning in about half an hour!
Man, I hate that. Probably the primer just wasn't compatible. But, did you move the signblank from a cool room to a warm one (or outside) just before topcoating? This will cause condensation to form on the surface almost instantly and could cause adhesion problems. I use FirstStep by SignLife for most new signs and Sherwin Williams solid-color acrylic latex stains for priming cedar(and redwood) on raw wood or re-paints. I have never used Jay Cooke's primer on cedar but I know it works well on HDU.
You will probably have to sand the blank down first, but I would check with the paint manufacturers to see if you could prime over what you've already done. Maybe you might not have to take it down to the bare wood.
------------------ "The most beautiful thing we can experience is the mysterious. It is the source of all true art and all science. He to whom this emotion is a stranger, who can no longer pause to wonder and stand rapt in awe, is as good as dead: his eyes are closed."
Albert Einstein
Failure to advertise is a lot like blinking in the dark. Nobody, but you, knows what you're doing.
posted
Can youtake a strip of application tape and start removing the green that way rather than sanding? If you can get most all of the green off, then you can lightly abrade the surface and prime it again with a different oil primer. I don't think I'd use vinyl or latex primer over the oil unless the oil has had time for a full cure.
It would also be interesting to paint some MDO scraps with that BEHR product and then enamel and try it again.
------------------ The SignShop Mendocino, California "Where the Redwoods meet the Surf"
Posts: 6806 | From: Mendocino, CA. USA | Registered: Nov 1998
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