posted
...both sides to be painted, how do lay it down without messing up one side?
I have tried half round moulding figuring not much would touch the surface. Still get a line in those spots.
I'm afraid to use nail points because I am rolling down paint. Don't want to push it through the HDU.
This one had to be painted on both sides as it will be visible from both sides. For those who use HDU, do you normally prime and paint the back if it won't be visible?
Thanks again. I know I'm a pain in the butt!
------------------ Amy Brown AMBO Design Lake Helen, FL jabrown@cfl.rr.com
"If only my toddler was better with paint & computers!"
Posts: 3502 | From: Lake Helen, FL, USA | Registered: Feb 2001
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First off, you are not a pain in the butt!! Asking questions to achieve professional results is what this forum is for! We just think you're awfully busy and it gives us something to hold ourselves accountable for hehehe! Ambition is a good thing!
And these guys just love to offer their suggestions!
I was gonna offer that you use push pins, in lieu of nails, should it be 4' x 4' or smaller. The holes you would get can be filled in easy compared to nails...which aren't that big of a deal if you use small nails.
------------------ PEACE SIGNS Big on Murals and Tight on Camera Ready!
"With every breath, we have a choice." --Linda Silver Eagle Georgia, USA
posted
Hi Amy, This has always been a tough one for me as well. If the job isn't a big rush (yeah, when does that happen?), let the first side sit and dry for 3 days. Then lay a shop blanket on your worktable and flip the sign over, painted-face-down onto the blanket, and paint the other side.
You let it sit for at least 3 days for all the gases to escape from the paint. If you try flipping it over the day after you paint it, the paint will become "suffocated" against the blanket and weird things can happen...
posted
At the shop I used to work at, we had 2x4s that ran across sawhorses to work on.
We would use screws into the 2x4's, leaving them an inch or so out.
Then you can have the sign resting on those screw heads, and only have to touch up the round spots, instead of having to worry about poking holes into it.
I know some places will devise up something where you can actually use eye bolts into the top and hang it from something, then steady it somehow to paint it.
I always painted the backs of my signs - made it look that much more professional.
And don't worry about asking a bunch of questions... not like I ever did that...
------------------ Dana Bowers docs-gal on chat
Did you hear about the new Dial-A-Prayer for atheists? It rings and rings and rings... but no one answers.
[This message has been edited by Dana Bowers (edited August 16, 2001).]
Posts: 1556 | From: St Cloud, MN | Registered: May 1999
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posted
Hi, Amy, What works for me is this- prime or paint the first side with the board flat on padded saw horses, leaving a small patch bare on what will be the upper edge to grab hold of, and slide the board off the horses so it leans against a wall. You need two small pieces of scrap wood on the floor so the board makes minimal contact. Reach over the top edge and paint the bare patch, then lean the board against the wall with two pieces of quarter- round to keep it a little bit away. If you don't do this, and the board is touching the wall, the top couple of inches next to the wall will dry dull. The two pieces of quarter-round need a small nail part way into the "sharp edge" and towards one end. That way, the nail can rest on the edge of the board and not fall through, the sharp edge rests against the back of the board with minimal contact, and touch up is easy.While the board is up on edge, go ahead and paint the second side. If you are rolling paint, sagging should not be a problem. This is mostly for 4x8s, but the principle applies to the smaller stuff, too. As others have said, there are no dumb questions, only unasked questions. Good luck.
------------------ Bill Preston Fly Creek, N.Y. USA wpreston2@stny.rr.com
[This message has been edited by Bill Preston (edited August 16, 2001).]
Posts: 943 | From: Fly Creek, N.Y. USA | Registered: Jan 2000
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posted
If the end are not going to be seen attach 2 strips about 2 in. wide and 6 in. long to each end paint 1 side flip over and let the strips rest on the table or saw horses
------------------ Jimmy Chatham Chatham Signs 164 Poplar Rd. Commerce, Ga 30529 706-335-2348 Fax 706-335-3378 icq#11718273
Posts: 1766 | From: Commerce, GA, USA | Registered: Nov 1998
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posted
If the sign is of the smaller variety, a coupla long finishing nails can be driven into the edges of the panel and then rest those on your saw horses. Paint the front side but not the edges. Then flip it and paint the back and edges. Fill the holes and touch up.
The manufacturers recommend painting both sides of HDU with the same amount of coats regardless if the back is visible or not. Helps to prevent warpage.
Good luck Amy...
------------------ Pat Neve, Jr. Sign Man, Inc. 4580 N. US 1 Melbourne, FL 32935 321-259-1703 signman@signmaninc.com Capt. Sign Letterville Constituent constituent: "One of the individual entities contributing to a whole"
Posts: 2284 | From: Melbourne, FL, USA | Registered: Jan 1999
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posted
We often do exactly what Pat does, and, on occasion, we put two longshanked eyescrews in one side and suspend it. We have cables running the length of the carving room to hang tools and paint pots on.
------------------ St.Marie Graphics & Makin' Tracks Sound Studio Kalispell, Montana stmariegraphics@centurytel.net http://www.stmariegraphics.com 800 735-8026 We're chiseling every day of the week! :^)
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