Letterville Bull Board Letterville | Bull Board
 


 

Front Page
A Letterhead History
About Us
Become A Resident
Edit Your Database Info
Find A Letterhead

Letterville Merchants
Resident Downloads
Letterville BookShop
Future Live Meets
Past Meets
Step-By-Steps
Past Panel Swaps
Past SOTM
Letterhead Profiles
Business Cards
Become A Merchant

Click on the button
below to chat with other
Letterville users.

http://www.letterville.com/ubb/chaticon.gif

Steve & Barb Shortreed
144 Hill St., E.
Fergus, ON, Canada
N1M 1G9

Phone: 519-787-2892
Fax: 519-787-2673
Email: barb@letterville.com

Copyright ©1995-2008
The Letterhead Website

 

 

The Letterville BullBoard   
my profile login | search | faq | calendar | im | forum home

  next oldest topic   next newest topic
» The Letterville BullBoard » Old Archives » sandblasted signs?

 - UBBFriend: Email this page to someone!    
Author Topic: sandblasted signs?
Scott Patterson
Visitor
Member # 1659

Icon 5 posted      Profile for Scott Patterson   Email Scott Patterson   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Friends every time i open a signcraft i see 'em. Sandblasted signs. I love 'em. What do i need to know to get started? I think a local monument company will do my blasting. I'm thinking hdu because of the price. I want keep my price in line with my market. Any advise?

------------------
Scott


Posts: 52 | From: Lily, Ky, USA | Registered: Aug 2000  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Bob Rochon
Resident


Member # 30

Icon 1 posted      Profile for Bob Rochon   Author's Homepage   Email Bob Rochon   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Scott,

Get a good compessor, sandblast pot and some underwear with holes in it. Every time I blast, now matter how I seal up my clothes I always end up with sand everywhere. And I mean everywhere.

On a serious note, I found a Body shop in my are that lets me use his set up from time to time. My shop compressor and my little sand blaster could't blow out a candle.

But you will need a good plotter that CAN cut mask, get a few samples of HDU, redwood, cedar. Try to blast samples first. I like wood better than foam anyday. I just blasted about 40 foam signs double sided and it does go quick but if you stop the side to side motion, you'd blow a hole clean through the stuff. On foam I was told to use High tack Mask, we use Anchor Brand. But on bare wood, such as redwood you want a medium tack Also if you do blast yourself I don't think I mentioned a Hood for your head. But then you would find that one out real quick.

Have fun and dive right in, it's easier than you think.

------------------
Bob Rochon
Creative Signworks
Millbury, MA
bob@creativesignworks.com

"Some people's kids"


[This message has been edited by Bob Rochon (edited August 14, 2000).]

[This message has been edited by Bob Rochon (edited August 14, 2000).]


Posts: 5149 | From: Millbury, Mass. U.S. | Registered: Nov 1998  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Dave Utter
Visitor
Member # 634

Icon 1 posted      Profile for Dave Utter   Email Dave Utter   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
and remember, if you blast with silica sand, wear a resporator, they say silicosis is a nasty way to die at a young age.

------------------
Dave Utter
D-utterguy on chat
Sign Designs
Beardstown, Il.
utter@fgi.net


Posts: 777 | From: beardstown, illinois, usa | Registered: Mar 1999  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Dave Sherby
Resident


Member # 698

Icon 1 posted      Profile for Dave Sherby   Email Dave Sherby   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Silica sand is extremely toxic. I've been using it on redwood and HDU for several years WITH a pressurized hood. I'm still worried. I've been told by suppliers in the industry that even your clothes are toxic after blasting. You take off your hood when done and there is a swirling cloud of dust all around you. Free silica is also released into the air while filling the blaster pot.

I've built a sandblast room that I will be using aluminum oxide for blasting HDU.

There are wholesalers that will blast your sign at a reasonable cost. They'll finish the sign completely or ship it to you blasted so you can paint it yourself.

Good luck finding someone like a monument blaster that is willing to put up with your HDU or redwood dust, do it when you need it done, or do it to your satisfaction. I tried 3 different blasters and the second sign I did myself was done better than any of these "experienced" blasters.

If you want to do it yourself, and you want to use HDU, whether you use SignFoam or Precision Board, there is very good information in a catalog made by SignFoam on the minimum equipment requirements needed to get started. They will send it to you if you call 800-338-4030. Also check out the Precision Board web site. Alot of great information there and PB is a merchant here.

------------------
Dave Sherby
"Sandman"
SherWood Sign & Graphic Design
Crystal Falls, MI 49920
906-875-6201
ICQ: 21604027
sherwood@up.net


Posts: 5397 | From: Crystal Falls, MI USA | Registered: Apr 1999  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Cheryl Lucas
Visitor
Member # 1656

Icon 1 posted      Profile for Cheryl Lucas   Email Cheryl Lucas   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
About sand in your britches...

We use a lot of duct tape. Wear a long sleeve shirt, duct tape ankles, wrists, pockets and ZIPPERS!

It's a dirty job, but somebodies got to do it!

Good Luck!

------------------
VSignsNgraphics@aol.com


Posts: 987 | From: Cape Coral, FL USA | Registered: Aug 2000  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Ingrid
Visitor
Member # 179

Icon 1 posted      Profile for Ingrid   Email Ingrid       Edit/Delete Post 
If you have someone who is willing and capable of blasting for you then go for it. I use a monument guy to do mine. I could not justify buying the equipment and having all that mess for what I pay him. If you are going to try redwood and are laminating your own boards, use quarter sawn or verticle grain. Look into West system epoxy for joining. You will want this epoxy in your shop for a bunch of other applications anyway. Its uses are endless. If you don't have a plotter which will cut stencil then you can always plot a paper pattern and spray glue it to your stenciled blank and handcut or sub out the stencil cutting to anoher shop. I use sikkens cetol for my wood. Don't use varnish because it will flake off eventually. HDU is great stuff to, but use a high buildup primer and then topcoat with whatever you like to use. Have fun

------------------


Posts: 100 | From: north gower, ont., canada | Registered: Nov 1998  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
   

   Close Topic   Feature Topic   Move Topic   Delete Topic next oldest topic   next newest topic
 - Printer-friendly view of this topic
Hop To:


Contact Us | Letterville. A Community Of Letterheads & Pinheads!

Powered by Infopop Corporation
UBB.classic™ 6.7.2

Search For Sign Supplies
Category:
 

                  

Letterhead Suppliers Around the World