posted
check out the book "Professional Painted Finishes" its at the book shop http://www.letterhead.com/bookshop/index.html I just got it from our local library to see if it is worth buying. Great book covering all types of finishes from marble to graining.
------------------ Brian Stoddard Expressions Signs A few puddles east of Seattle
Posts: 790 | From: Redmond, WA | Registered: Nov 1998
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------------------ The SignShop Mendocino, California "Where the Redwoods meet the Surf"
Posts: 6718 | From: Mendocino, CA. USA | Registered: Nov 1998
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Dana Aaron
unregistered
posted
I have been doing some signs with the 'antiqued' look. Unfortunately the pics don't show the detail very well...
Since some of the signs need to go outside, I usually just paint them as I would with enamels. Then I distress them...
I hit them with a palm sander to take off the gloss. Sometimes I tip the sander to take down the paint. Then I hit it with sandpaper and take down the lettering in some areas, being careful not to make it hard to read.
Then I hit it with the hammer, scratch it with paint can opener, if small enough, flip face down on concrete floor and kick around shop... that kinda stuff.
Then I tack rag it, and hit the edges and corners with matte black kyrlon. Sometimes just spray up in air over the sign, too. Also just barely push trigger on can so it spits out paint... sorta the 'fly-speck' kinda thing.
Let dry and tack rag again. Then I hit it with some coats of satin exterior floor poly, number of coats dependent if indoor or outdoor sign.
Thats about it!
As far as faux finishes... I really like the wadded up plastic bag dipped in paint. Black paint on green or maroon background are my favorites. Plus it goes quick.
I also like that little thingie that you rock back and forth for wood graining.
Just be careful that your background doesn't distract from your copy.
HAVE FUN!!
------------------ Dana Aaron ICQ# 37949659 www.sign-a-saurus.bigstep.com
Did you hear about the Buddhist who refused his dentist's Novocain, during root canal work? He wanted to transcend dental medication.
posted
I'll be happy to furnish any info I have on the subject - I just went to the demo in Boise put on by Dennis Gerathy - who, BTW, has had several articles on the subj. in SignCraft and Signs of the Times. But - where to start???
First try and find what I already posted and ask me if you still have questions (you should) Dennis uses water based acrylic paints - I use Japans and enamels (One Shot) PLUS acrylics, now for some effects.
The first guy I ever saw doing anything like this was Dennis Jones, the pinstriper in Whittier 25 years ago - he would paint a sign on Masonite and throw it out into Whittier Blvd., for a couple hours - instant antique!
I can't think of the title of the book I have an extra of at home - somehow I wound up with 2 - sells for $45 through SignCraft, all about marbling and faux finishes, I'd like to make someone a nice deal on it.
I've been doing this for about 10 years, Dennis G. for about 8, I think. Wish I could SHOW you...it helps a lot to see it in action.
------------------ "If it isn't fun, why do it?" Signmike@aol.com Mike Languein Doctor of Letters BS, MS, PhD ___________________
You know what BS is, MS is More of the Same, and it's Piled Higher and Deeper here
posted
I've done them too, and one thing is to avoid using NEW materials! I never use plywood or MDO, but prefer old pine boards, especially old tongue-&-groove pine. I'll take a hatchet and hit the grain end to create "checking" and cracks, or even take out chunks so it looks like bits have cracked and fallen out! Make a "mildew" stain out of black with a little green, thinned with dirty brushwash thinner (for that "muddy" stained look) and get it in all the cacks and crevices.
For lettering I like Japan colors, because they dry flat (nothing "old" should ever be glossy) then sand and scatch and distress til you get the look you want. I usually use loose one-stroke letterstyles; the idea is to make them look like a "knock-out" from long ago, before helvetica and computers came along.
------------------ "A wise man concerns himself with the truth, not with what people believe." - Aristotle
When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro. - Raoul Duke (Hunter S. Thompson)
Cam Finest Kind Signs 256 S. Broad St. Pawcatuck, Ct. 06379 "Award winning Signs since 1988"
Posts: 3051 | From: Pawcatuck,Connecticut USA | Registered: Nov 1998
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posted
I forgot about David Kynaston - he also had an article out a few years ago - and I believe it was on this website - maybe it still is.
I agree with Cam - use old styles in lettering and layout. You also have to use paint. Nothing shouts FRAUD worse than a vinyl sign trying to be sold as an original antique, and I've seen them. One really old letterstyle is Helvetica. I don't know how many people are aware of it but this "Brand New Helvetica" was first introduced by American Type Founders in 1880. But because of the over working from all the computers it just doesn't LOOK old.
I use Japan thinned with turpentine - not only is it dead flat but a little scrubbing goes a long way toward aging it further. Acrylic paint is darn hard to sand down, but you can crackle it real easy.
------------------ "If it isn't fun, why do it?" Signmike@aol.com Mike Languein Doctor of Letters BS, MS, PhD ___________________
You know what BS is, MS is More of the Same, and it's Piled Higher and Deeper here
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