posted July 25, 2001 09:34 PM
I need some advice from those of you with any experience making large sculptures or figures for exterior use.
I am working on a neat mini-golf course project that will involve making all the signage, obstacles and visual effects for an 18-hole course. Many of the obstacles will be small-scale replicas of historical and regional landmarks, and I am using 13mm & 19mm PVC sheeting as a main substrate.
At least one obstacle will need to be in the form of a large sculpture, and I have never made anything like that for exterior use. I have had experience making papier maché sculptures for repertoire productions and parade floats, but not anything where a permanent outdoor application is required. I have seen similar things done, and usually with pretty poor looking (albeit durable) results, so I suppose it's not too difficult if you know what materials/coatings to use.
posted July 25, 2001 11:16 PM
Hey brad, most of that stuff is made of some soft east to form and carv material with fiberglas over it. check out the portfolio page I got some pics posted of one I just did.
------------------ -------------------------------------------------- "A wise man once said that, or was it a wise guy?"
We have been doing this very stuff for years, specializing in mini golf courses. In our experience nothing will last except concrete or welded steel. All the patrons are armed with putters and not afraid to use them!
Check out our web sites for step by step pictures and lots of examples.
Good luck with your project!
-dan
------------------ Dan Sawatzky Sawatzky's Imagination Corporation Cultus Lake , British Columbia dan@imaginationcorporation.ca
posted July 26, 2001 02:17 PM
Dan is the pro on this stuff but I have a bit to add as well.
You can get the fiberglass reinforced concrete from Home Depot of all places, just add water and you can apply over your form.
You could use fiberglass as well, I use a ton of it for mold building and custom auto parts, but the concrete is still the best bet.. not that the fiberglass wont hold up (it'll last forever and take all kinds of abuse) but the concrete is physically easier and faster to work with... plus it doesnt stink as bad and it's still fun!
------------------ Mike Pipes Digital Illusion Custom Graphics Lake Havasu City, AZ http://www.stickerpimp.com
Posts: 8746 | From: Lake Havasu, AZ USA | Registered: Jun 2000
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posted July 27, 2001 10:32 AM
How would you paint a freshly made concrete sculpture and what kind of paint would you use. I understand concrete needs a long time to cure before painting.
I hope I did this right. This is the first time I have used a bulletin board.
posted July 27, 2001 07:00 PM
The concrete mentioned before would be the toughest way as far as durability. You might also consider finding someone in your area that has a two part spray urethane machine. The same type of stuff they use for spray in truck bed liners. (Line-X is a national chain) You can do your sculptures in foam over metal sub-structure and have them coated in polyurethane real thick. It is real durable. If it will stop a .308 bullet it will stop a kid with a putter.
posted July 27, 2001 09:04 PM
Dan's stuff looks fantastic! Dan, you didn't go into detail you just said welded steel or concrete, come on man, give us some tips. My landlord is a spray foam insullation contractor, I am dying to work on some stuff with him. has anybody worked with the spray on foam? It seems to soft to carve with any detail? sign foam is soft and thats 15-18 pound what he uses 2-3 pound. check out the fish i did on the portfolio page. first real "sculpture"
------------------ -------------------------------------------------- "A wise man once said that, or was it a wise guy?"
posted July 28, 2001 03:05 AM
THe profile Steve did a while ago on our company ( look up profiles on the home page for letterville) has quite a bit more detail and tips of how we do our stuff. Signcraft did a great how-to a while back as well.
I am currently writing a how-to on spray foam/acrylic stucco for Signcraft that follows a parade float project we did with that method over a welded steel frame. Keep your eyes open for that feature as I think it has information that should be of interest to many folks who get requests for this type of work but aren't sure where to start.
We use acrylic paint -as in top quality house paint. Over the fiberglass-reinforced concrete I wait only 3-4 days of curing time. No failures yet in over 10 years of doing this stuff. I believe the secret is a quality primer (same brand) and then 2-3 coats of paint applied by brush.
The foam is easier than concrete but the detail isn't as good. I also HATE working with the foam as the dust when sanding is awfull! But there are some applications where it is the best method because of weight considerations or portability needs.
You should see the current project we have in the planning stage!!!! It is going to set the new standard for this type of thing. I can't reveal any details yet but will let you folks know as soon as I can!! The detail will be nothing short of amazing and involves welded steel, concrete, spray foam, and lots more!!! All our experience and methods will be called into play. I anticipate that the project will take at least two years to do -starting next summer. Gonna be fun!
Stay tuned!
-dan
------------------ Dan Sawatzky Sawatzky's Imagination Corporation Cultus Lake , British Columbia dan@imaginationcorporation.ca
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