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» The Letterville BullBoard » Old Archives » Pinstriping pricing question

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Author Topic: Pinstriping pricing question
Dana Aaron
unregistered


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The last motorcycle tank I did, I traded hours even up with the owner (an electrician) which worked out great.

Just got a call from my local body shop guy and he's got a tank and fenders coming in that they want paint, not vinyl. I don't have a clue how to price it.

The fenders and around the tank are the typical double line, same color. On the tank are the heavily outlined words "HARLEY DAVIDSON" and a pinstripy looking outline of an eagle, with very few details.

I figure I probably will use striping mask tape, cut a mask for the lettering and a pattern for the eagle. Not totally sure yet.

I don't have a CLUE what something like this should cost, since I don't do stuff like this very often. Nothing in the price guide as far as motorcycles. So I figured I would ask you guys for some guesses.

THANKS!!

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Dana Aaron
Sign-A-Saurus
Nevis, MN
(218)652-3839
ICQ# 37949659

Doesn't 'expect the unexpected' make the unexpected expected?

[This message has been edited by Dana Aaron (edited July 02, 2000).]


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George Perkins
Resident


Member # 156

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Dana, striping prices vary quite a bit around the country. Kinda what the market will bear type of thing. Some areas get really good prices while others are quite low. Myself for a double line in one color on both fenders and the tank I would charge $120. Without seeing the lettering I'm not gonna attempt a guess at that part.
I don't want to scare you off here but there are a few things to look out for and be aware of before you price this job. First off these pieces, and I'm assuming they will be coming to you OFF the bike, are kind of a pain to work on. You will have to spend a little time rigging something up to hold them up. The front fenders will usually stand on their own, although they wont take much "leaning" on. The rears will almost always have to be propped up by some means. The tanks ( most Harleys gas tanks are in two pieces ) are usually not symmetrical, eyeballing is as important as measuring! Lastly, I think you are going to have a hard time with the striping masking tape making the tight radii, especially on the rear of the tanks. You might have to freehand that part, no fear a small quill will workjust fine.

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George Perkins
Millington,TN.
goatwell@ionictech.com

"I started out with nothing and still have most of it left"

http://goatwell.tripod.com

[This message has been edited by George Perkins (edited July 02, 2000).]


Posts: 4321 | From: Millington, TN. USA | Registered: Nov 1998  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Dana Aaron
unregistered


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Chris from the body shop said that the guy is changing the color of the bike. He will paint it, then get it to me to put the stuff on, then I get it back to him to clear.

I never really thought about the striping. Just thought the tape would work, since I am afraid it will take me about 12,457 tries to pull the stripes evenly and perfect!!

I figure I can handle the copy and the eagle pretty well. That striping kinda scares me, tho, since that's not something I do hardly ever. Maybe I will catch up with my buddy Lynn to do that part for me, since he's been practicing by striping everything around his place that will stand still long enuff.

As far as the copy - pretty easy upper case with a thick outline. Nothing super fancy.

I know questions about pricing are hard to answer, but getting a rough idea of where to start sure helps.

Thanks!!

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Dana Aaron
Sign-A-Saurus
Nevis, MN
(218)652-3839
ICQ# 37949659

Doesn't 'expect the unexpected' make the unexpected expected?


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roger bailey
Merchant


Member # 556

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Dana,lets look at how the body shop would price it out !
1- prep,tape and paint rear fender- 1.5 hr.
2-prep,tape and paint tank - 2.5 hr.
-------
4.0
x labor
-----------
Oh yea,don't forget $ 15.00 @ hr. of paint time for materials.(15.00x4.0=60.00) So if your labor is around 40.00@ hr. then your lookin at $220.00, hows that ? Roger

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Roger Bailey
Rapid Tac Incorporated
Merlin, OR


Posts: 3020 | From: Merlin Oregon | Registered: Dec 1998  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Valerie Connot
Visitor
Member # 76

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George and I are on the same page, as far as the pinstriping costs are concerned.

I charge $30 per piece for a double line. That makes the pinstriping $120: $30 for each fender and $30 for each side of the tank.
The eagle logo in pinstripe lines, I would charge an extra $40 per side.

The Harley logo would depend on how much detail they wanted. A simple lettering with a drop shadow would go for $60 per side. If they want a factory replica logo: outline, in-line, and drop shadow, I would charge $120 per side.

That makes the whole job roughly $500 on the high side, and $300 on the low side.

And no offense to anyone charging a cheap labor rate, but a self employed person should really consider $60 per hour wholesale, as a minimum and $100 per hour retail, as a reasonable hourly rate. If you don't ask for it, no one is going to volunteer to give it to you.

For me to do a bike, you are looking at least half an hour per piece to lay it out and get all the curves even and then stripe it.

And I hate to even suggest it but if you are not familiar or confident at free-handing it, you may want to mask it off with stencil tape. (agh...gag...choke...agh...hehe)

Have fun and if it takes all day...$500 pays for the day.

DeWayne

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Valerie Connot
DOA Flatliners
North Wales, PA

[This message has been edited by Connot (edited July 02, 2000).]


Posts: 138 | From: North Wales, PA, USA | Registered: Nov 1998  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Bill Dirkes
Visitor
Member # 1000

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Dana,
12,000 attempts is pretty good! I know how ya feel, some days I wipe-n-do-over more than anything else.
I saw the word CLEAR in your post. Be sure to get some 1-shot hardener and add a little to your paint. I've had one color crawl and others do just fine on the same piece without it. best to put it in-just to be safe.
Good Luck.
Bill

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Bill Dirkes
Bethel Hill Signs
Butler, Ky.
Goodnight Mrs. Calabash, wherever you are.



Posts: 591 | From: Bellevue,Ky. US | Registered: Aug 1999  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Dana Aaron
unregistered


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Oh hey, the clear thing... Was gonna ask about that, too.

I was planning on getting some of the exact clear that Chris will be using, then mixing it in the 1-shot. That should work to help keep the paint compatible in the later stage of clearing the whole thing, right?

That last tank I did (ok ok ok, the FIRST one I ever did) I did before I knew about the BB, so I just painted it, then worried to death til I got the call that it was done.

Chris was really careful about misting it lightly several coats before he finally put it on regular - ended up with 7 coats of clear, but looks great and no problems with the paint.

So - what should I add to the 1-shot be the safest? 1-shot hardener, the clear Chris uses or a little of both?

ok - just so you guys can see I tried to paint graphics on a tank once before...

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Dana Aaron
Sign-A-Saurus
Nevis, MN
(218)652-3839
ICQ# 37949659

Doesn't 'expect the unexpected' make the unexpected expected?


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Valerie Connot
Visitor
Member # 76

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Leave the painting to the painters, just do your thing.

I have no problem clearing over one-shot, without playing chemist and trying to figure out what you can mix and what you can't. Don't add fisheye to your paint, and have the clear misted on like you said.

Your painter should know what he is doing. And from your earlier results, everything was fine. And if your painter doesn't know what he is doing, get another painter. Afer all you do the art work without his input, let him be a professional.

DeWayne

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Valerie Connot
DOA Flatliners
North Wales, PA


Posts: 138 | From: North Wales, PA, USA | Registered: Nov 1998  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
   

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