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I'm in the process of testing a new way of coating MDO to solve all our problems.HE HE For the past couple of years I have been using Titebond 2 woodworkers glue to seal the edges of my MDO. It works great. What sticks to wood better than wood glue. Well this got me to thinking. Why not coat the whole dam thing and see what happens. The titebond is available in any hardware store. It paints on easy. I may thin it with a little water to roll it though. I keep everyone posted. I figure I will hang a piece behind my shop and report back to you all in 5 to 10 years and let you know how it looks. LOL Feel free to try your own test. The glue has a blue cap with a duck on the side. GOOD LUCK!! Oh yeah, how do I put my photo next to my posts?
------------------ Rob Larkham RL Graphic D-Sign Chester, MA rldsigns@aol.com
Posts: 517 | From: Chester, MA | Registered: May 2001
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Geez Rob thats real nice of you. BTW what ever happened to those IBM selectramatic typewriters with the ball on top?
------------------ HotLines Joey Madden,47 years in the Classic Art of Pinstriping Grants Pass, Oregon Learn something...... http://members.tripod.com/Inflite
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Good post Rob. Over the years, we tried all sorts of different things to keep the edges from breaking down. Since most of our signs were odd shapes, that plastic molding stuff seldom worked. In the end, we settled on using a latex caulking. Out thought was that latex, being flexible, would endure the expansion and contracting of the MDO. What do you others do?
The photos next to the posts are one of the perks we offer those that choose to support this website financially. Just our way of saying thanks. The whole scoop is at www.letterhead.com/residents/ If you decide to move to Letterville, I can get you a spot across the street from Gary Anderson.
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I've had the best results with MDO by filling the edge voids with epoxy putty. Both parts of the epoxy are together, shaped into a cylinder. When you slice off a chunk you have part one kinda like a donut and part 2 filling the donut hole. You kneed the chunk until you get a uniform color then push it into the voids. (part 1 and 2 are two different colors) The stuff is rock hard and ready to sand in about 30 minutes.
The the real trick is to round over all your edges. Paint wants to creep away from a sharp edge. I sand the edge smooth, round over the sharp edge, then get 3 coats of Ronan block out white on the edges and 2 coats on the face and back. Final color is 2 coats of LETTERING ENAMEL ...NOT bulletin color. You should get 8 to 10 years out of it easily.
Personally I have my doubts about glue being a great sealer. I have soaked one part exterior glue in water and gotten it plenty soft enough to clean the container. Just my 2¢ worth.
------------------ Dave Sherby "Sandman" SherWood Sign & Graphic Design Crystal Falls, MI 49920 906-875-6201 ICQ: 21604027 sherwood@up.net
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At the obvious risk of tooting another horn...........Before we switched completely to Dibond, we used mdo and alumalite. Two thin coats of Pelucid permanently sealed and waterproofed the edges of our mdo. That was one of the very early uses we found. If you paint the edge first, the clear coat keeps the edge looking freshly painted besides waterproofing it.
------------------ St.Marie Graphics & Makin' Tracks Sound Studio Kalispell, Montana stmariegraphics@centurytel.net http://www.stmariegraphics.com 800 735-8026 We're chiseling every day of the week! :^)
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Yeah, he does. I was gonna go watch him, but he wanted $73 to watch!! .............but I offered him two Bud Lights and he agreed.
------------------ St.Marie Graphics & Makin' Tracks Sound Studio Kalispell, Montana stmariegraphics@centurytel.net http://www.stmariegraphics.com 800 735-8026 We're chiseling every day of the week! :^)
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