posted
I need to put together some racing numbers that are two colors (number with outline). There is no overlapping involved. I have never done this since I usually do the installations myself. What is the best method for doing this?
------------------ Amy Brown AMBO Design Lake Helen, FL jabrown@cfl.rr.com
"If only my toddler was better with paint & computers!"
Posts: 3502 | From: Lake Helen, FL, USA | Registered: Feb 2001
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posted
Hi, Amy. No big deal. Program the number WITH the outline, then cut the whole works. Next cut just the number without the outline. Strip out the number on the first cut leaving the outline, premask the number with clear premask, align and inset, picking up both together. Violets!! Dot's eet!
------------------ St.Marie Graphics & Makin' Tracks Sound Studio Kalispell, Montana stmariegraphics@centurytel.net http://www.stmariegraphics.com 800 735-8026 We're chiseling every day of the week! :^)
Application fluid(like Rapid Tac) makes you feel like a pro thats been doin it for years !! Instill confidence in yourself, try Rapid Tac !! Heck, try it for free, call 800-350-7751, ask for sample or mail@rapidtac.com
Roger
------------------ Roger Bailey Rapid Tac Incorporated Waikoloa, Hawaii
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Roger, I think she's tring to ship a preassembled 2 color applique. We all know preassembling a film-on-film leaves a ton of edge bubbles at the edge the the overlay color when installed. We often ship large appliques with as many as 8 or 9 colors preassembled. This means cutting out the entire graphic from the outside/outline colr and then inserting all the remaining colors in the precut areas. We use a light table for this and it gives the customer a multicolor applique that's all one thickness with no overlays. Your product would most certainly make the final install easier, but I can't picture why you'd need it for the color insertion process on the light table. That would be a disaster for the liner. Tou probably didn't understand my original explanation. If you beginners want a dead flat applique with NO edge bubbles, NEVER do a preassembled film on film. If you're doing the installing, do the overlay on the job, one layer at a time and use RapidTac there.
------------------ St.Marie Graphics & Makin' Tracks Sound Studio Kalispell, Montana stmariegraphics@centurytel.net http://www.stmariegraphics.com 800 735-8026 We're chiseling every day of the week! :^)
I use Rapid Tac all the time. You sent me the sample kit to begin with then I bought some more!
Pierre, I would normally install the graphics but this guy wants to do it himself. There will be no overlapping involved for bubbles, however, I am very leary of doing this wet. I will likely do it dry. Sure wish I had a light table!
Thanks for the replies!
------------------ Amy Brown AMBO Design Lake Helen, FL jabrown@cfl.rr.com
"If only my toddler was better with paint & computers!"
Posts: 3502 | From: Lake Helen, FL, USA | Registered: Feb 2001
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posted
Hi Amy. For bigger sticks I would apply vinyl dry cutting both peices with registration marks in two corners. Just draw a star in lower right and top left corners. First stick the number leaving your stars on the car. Then after you have masked the outline hand cut the stars through the mask and release paper. Line up the stars in the corners, tape it in place, and to ensure it will stay straight hinge it from the centre. I would recommend dry application especially on vehicles.
Hope this helps. Happy Stickin'
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Posts: 1680 | From: Edmonton Ab Canada EH! | Registered: May 2001
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Pierre, I'm trying to figure in my head what you just said. The light-bulb just hasn't come on yet. The method Donna mentioned in another post is how we apply mult-colored vinyl to the end substrate. but what I understand you're doing is ... Applying the 2nd , 3rd etc to the first carrier sheet? Starting with outside to inside layers? I guess I'm missing something cause I don't see how the premask on the 2nd piece will allow the vinyl to re-adhere to the carrier. Gary H.
------------------ Gary&Dawn Hoopes SignCountry Overland Park, Ks. 913 831-1152
Posts: 40 | From: Overland Park, Kansas USA | Registered: Apr 2001
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The only way to end up with a multi-color, single layer applique is to cut the entire piece of artwork on the plotter first. ALL of the parts. Now you have the outline color with all of the other cut parts weeded out. Premask the original matrix with CLEAR premask. (that way you don't need a light table) Now cut the individual color parts on your plotter, tape them down one at a time and position the main outline piece over the first color. (Needs two of you) You can see the color through the clear premask. Align it in the cutout area in which it belongs. Use a squeegee and pick that color up with the premask. Now go to the next color and the next and the nextandthenextnextnext........etc. At teh end you'll have all of the colors inset into the original outline matrix. Violets!! You have a multicolor, single layer applique. Ok?
If it's still not clear, call me on the toll-free line. No big deal.
------------------ St.Marie Graphics & Makin' Tracks Sound Studio Kalispell, Montana stmariegraphics@centurytel.net http://www.stmariegraphics.com 800 735-8026 We're chiseling every day of the week! :^)
posted
I think I got it. Never would have thought of that way. Instead of applying the 2nd etc. to the 1st. carrier. You're picking up each color to the 1st. (original) clear pre-mask. I feel stupid. but thats a great tip/trick. Thanks Pierre. Gary H.
------------------ Gary&Dawn Hoopes SignCountry Overland Park, Ks. 913 831-1152
Posts: 40 | From: Overland Park, Kansas USA | Registered: Apr 2001
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posted
I actually thought it was common knowledge. It's not even a tip/trick. It's a methodolgy used by any shop making large format multicolor appliques that aren't screened. We've done this for 25 years. Call if you have a problem. My son will talk you through it.
------------------ St.Marie Graphics & Makin' Tracks Sound Studio Kalispell, Montana stmariegraphics@centurytel.net http://www.stmariegraphics.com 800 735-8026 We're chiseling every day of the week! :^)
I do mine the same way basically, but depending on the job I may use inserts or I may overlay.. usually on smaller stuff I just overlay it (boat registration numbers, jetski race numbers, etc.)
I use clear premask (Clear R-Tape) and currently tape the artwork to my glass patio door so I can see the edges easier through the liners. Even with the clear premask it can sometimes be difficult to see the registration especially if your vinyl has a heavier liner. 3M Electrocut with the clear liner is great for this though.
I position each color in registration, still on the liners, taped to the door in order, then use the top layer (the only layer with premask) to pick up the successive layers, after removing the liner from each freashly "picked-up" layer.
I do it this way whether I'm overlaying or inserting.
I'm probably going to build a light table this week sometime.. Figure for a 30"x48" table with a glass top it's only $20 to build.. between two sticks of lumber, a $5 frosted glass shower door from the local St Vincent's charity store, a 48" fluorescent light fixture at Wal Mart for $7, plus a couple light tubes.. ya cant go wrong!
------------------ Mike Pipes Digital Illusion Custom Graphics Lake Havasu City, AZ http://www.stickerpimp.com
Posts: 8746 | From: Lake Havasu, AZ USA | Registered: Jun 2000
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