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» The Letterville BullBoard » Old Archives » vinyl on painted concrete block ??

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Author Topic: vinyl on painted concrete block ??
Vance Galliher
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Member # 581

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i'm appling a lot of 10" to 16" vinyl letters to interior painted concrete block walls at a local school ( high up so kids cann't pick at em ) other then washing the area with tsp, are there any tricks i should know about to provide good adhesion ????

thanks for any replies

vance galliher

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Posts: 324 | From: springfield,or. | Registered: Nov 1998  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Bob Burns
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Member # 268

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Use only 2 mil H.P. vinyl!!!!
Youl need a heat gun and a rivet brush.
The wall should be painted with GLOSS ENAMEL.
After applying the vinyl, heat and "squeegie"
with the rivet brush in a circular motion with LOTS of pressure. Remove transfer tape and brush again!

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Bob Burns
Bob Burns Signs
LETTERCRAFT SIGN SYSTEMS
www.lettercraft.com
1619 Oregon Ave.
Prescott, Az 86305
1-877-778-5879


Posts: 2121 | From: Prescott, Arizona, USA | Registered: Nov 1998  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Jerry Mathel
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Member # 526

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Hi Vance,

Bob's advice is right on the money, especially about the gloss paint on the block. If it's flat paint, or even semi gloss, vinyl just isn't going to work. Even with gloss enamel on the block, it's a little bit "iffy". You might be better off to use paint mask and paint the letters.

Jerry Mathel
Jerry Mathel Signs
Grants Pass, Oregon
jmathel@grantspass.com

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Posts: 916 | From: Grants Pass, OR USA | Registered: Dec 1998  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
BruceWestfall
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Member # 43

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Yep. I'd say the last two guys were exactly right. 2 mil + heat gun ( not hair dryer )= STUCK. About the rivet brush, you can also try a regular paint brush that has all but about 1" of bristle cut off. It is softer than a rivet brush and should be able to bet in a few extra crevices. I also like the stumpy brushes because they won't tear bare vinyl like a rivet brush could.

Just an extra note about the application - do a top hinge with tape and press it down a little at a time with the brush so that the vinyl won't have to stretch as much when heat gun time comes. Then start from the top with the heat gun ( do a test piece first )and really smush that vinyl in there. Then remove the transfer tape and heat gun / brush it again.

If the decals are supposed to stay forever, give 'em a coat of frog juice too! That way the edges of the vinyl won't be very pickable and you can support a great product, too.

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Bruce Westfall
DeSigns Unlimited
Glouster, Ohio
bruce@frognet.net


Posts: 106 | From: Glouster, OH USA | Registered: Nov 1998  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Checkers
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Member # 63

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One more note! Be sure the painting was done correctly. Take some masking tape & stick it to the wall & peel it off & check to see if the paint comes off with it. Nothing worse than having a paint failure in the middle of a larger graphic.
Havin' fun,
Checkers

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a.k.a. Brian Born
Classic Signs
South Plainfield, NJ
http://members.home.net/sign-it/
"Work smart - Play hard"



Posts: 3775 | From: Harrisburg, Pa. U.S.A. | Registered: Nov 1998  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Terry Teague
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Member # 796

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It blows my mind that anyone would even consider sticking vinyl to concrete block!
Doesn't anyone even consider painting letters anymore.
Next thing ya know someone is going to suggest sticking vinyl to a mule's ass....wait a minute Mark Fair already has.......

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Terry Teague
James River Signs
Reeds Spring, MO
tlteague@tri-lakes.net


Posts: 434 | From: Reeds Spring | Registered: May 1999  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
   

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