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» The Letterville BullBoard » Old Archives » Priming and painting question............

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Author Topic: Priming and painting question............
Barry Branscum
Visitor
Member # 445

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Hi,

I have a really nice sign I am working on that I am having a little trouble with. The primer I use is KILZ 2, a water base. I have used it for years with very little problem.

In this particular case I applied it about 24 hours ago to a piece of 3/4 mdo. It is dry to the touch, but it is sticky. I think it is the humidity that has created the problem, but what I want to ask is: CAN I go ahead and paint it anyway? Or should I wait for it to be bone dry?

I had ONE incident a year or two back where the paint cracked after a few months....that time was because I rushed the paint and I do NOT want that to happen again.

Please some of you "masters of the Brush" out there give me some advice, will ya??

Thanks in advance!

Barry

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Master's Touch Signs & Screenprinting
Clinton AR
5017456246
ICQ 17430008
Signs of Excellence!!!


Posts: 2500 | From: Clinton, AR USA | Registered: Nov 1998  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Jerry Mathel
Visitor
Member # 526

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Hi Barry,

Wait till it dries!

Jerry Mathel
Jerry Mathel Signs
Grants Pass, Oregon
signs@grantspass.com

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Posts: 916 | From: Grants Pass, OR USA | Registered: Dec 1998  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
George Perkins
Resident


Member # 156

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"It is dry to the touch, but it is sticky" If it's sticky , it's not dry to the touch. Do you mean it's tacky ( not wet but your finger drags when rubbed accross it? ) or is it hard on the surface yet soft underneath? Either way it's not fully dried and painting on top of it WILL cause failure. You are right in assuming it's the humidity, there has been a lot of rain in your region for a number of days and humidity will play hell with drying times. Some shops are worse than others about humidity problems. If it's sunny get the board outside and bake it, if not just be patient, real patient. If you got the primer on heavy it might take a while to fully dry.

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George Perkins
Millington,TN.
goatwell@ionictech.com

"I started out with nothing and still have most of it left"

http://goatwell.tripod.com


Posts: 4320 | From: Millington, TN. USA | Registered: Nov 1998  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Glenn Taylor
Visitor
Member # 162

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Put a fan on it to help accelerate the drying.

------------------
Compost Happens!

:) Design is Everything! :)
Glenn Taylor
in beautiful North Carolina


http://members.tripod.com/taylor_graphics
walldog@geeksnet.com



Posts: 10690 | From: Wilson, NC, USA | Registered: Nov 1998  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Dave Sherby
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Member # 698

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Fan is good, but never on fresh paint. Wait for it to skin over on its own before you put the fan on. What I've been told by a paint chemist is the air movement over the board actually heats the paint slightly from friction. You want this process to start after the paint has skinned over on its own.

Here's another 2 cents worth. Drop the Kilz and go with a blockout white as a primer. (One Shot for example) I heard about alot of MDO failures with Kilz as a primer when I was in Mazeppa. My very first MDO sign (9 years ago) still looks like it did the day I installed it. I have used blockout for primer since I started making MDO signs. I just don't trust a water base primer on MDO and the blockout dries in 6 to 12 hours anyway.

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Dave Sherby
"Sandman"
SherWood Sign & Graphic Design
Crystal Falls, MI 49920
906-875-6201
ICQ: 21604027
sherwood@up.net


Posts: 5396 | From: Crystal Falls, MI USA | Registered: Apr 1999  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
roger bailey
Merchant


Member # 556

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George is probably on target here, getting the primer (or paint) on too heavy will trap more solvents that SHOULD be escapeing, this results in holding in humidity as well. We always used the fans in the booth to help the solvents escape (as soon as paint was applied) then put the substrate (usually a car)outside as soon as possible,the sun and air help this curing process along.
It would be better to WASH off the slow drying primer and start fresh spraying thin coats with FLASH OFF time in between coats.
Just my opinion, Roger

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Roger Bailey
Rapid Tac Incorporated
Merlin, OR


Posts: 3020 | From: Merlin Oregon | Registered: Dec 1998  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
bruce ward
Visitor
Member # 1289

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You may try priming with exterior flat latex instead of the oils. Latex is more flexible than oils, therefor giving way to the elements. Than topcoat with your regular enamels. We usually but high grade mismatched paint from the paintstore its alot cheaper and all you are usng it for is priming anyway!

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if you wanted it tommorow...you should have called last week!

bruce ward
visual images
montgomery, al
visual8@mindspring.com


Posts: 2033 | From: Montgomery, AL, usa | Registered: Jan 2000  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Doug Bernhardt
Resident


Member # 1568

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Yuppers.......Don't paint till it is dry. The best advice is several of those above. Drop that primer..wipe off all you can on this job and in the future remember....
1/ the best primers are very slow drying....usually (ok always)oil based
2/ sand between coats....2 primers and 2 finish coats
3/ watch-out for fugitive colours....maroon and purple to name a couple

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Posts: 121 | From: ottawa ont. canada | Registered: Jun 2000  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Joe Essex
Visitor
Member # 1578

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FYI:

Kilz has just come out with:
Kilz Exterior

Oil Based and seems to work much like XIM products. Tried it on some temporary project signs, keep everyone posted.
May be hard to to come by in some places, VERY NEW!

Good luck

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Joe Essex
Visual Dynamics Sign & Design Group
Indianapolis, IN.

"If you don't stand for something, your likely to fall for anything!"-Grandpa


Posts: 5 | From: Indianapolis, IN. , US | Registered: Jun 2000  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
   

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