posted
well, i didn't see the excellent advice on the OTHER awning post about blocking out the background until AFTER i had stuck a "patch" on the awning i'm working on.... sigh.
anyway, i primed pounced the area for their logo and primed using "Ti-Cote" waterborne primer. the stuff DID NOT want to stick. should i have used something else? I use Ti-Cote on vinyl banners and the label says its good "for most awning fabrics". this awning fabric, just like "most", is 100 percent acryllic canvas.
what did i do wrong?
(the only good news is that the awning valence is removable, so i could work in my shop instead of up on the ladder...)
[This message has been edited by ScooterX (edited May 15, 2001).]
Posts: 1356 | From: Oakland (and San Francisco) | Registered: Mar 2001
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posted
the "step by step" is now back up in that section of this site. i read it. it was great, but didn't really answer any of my questions. 1. when painting on awnng fabric, do i need to use any primer? (i'm guessing no) 2. if i'm JUST painting, and not using a vinyl stencil, what kind of brush should i use? 3. OR, should i ONLY use a stencil, as per the step-by-step?
(i did manage to get some painting done on the awning project i'm doing, and the primrose yellow wants two coats, everything seems too bumpy for my quills, and it is taking forever to dry between coats).
------------------ :: Scooter Marriner :: :: Coyote Signs :: :: San Francisco :: :: don't blame me... i'm just a beginner ::
Posts: 1356 | From: Oakland (and San Francisco) | Registered: Mar 2001
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posted
The type of brush to use,would be a deer foot fitch.You can also get by with a white boars hair brush bought at your Art Supply store. I am having trouble understanding EXACTLY which type of Awning you are talking about here.Is it Canvas or Vinyl? Either way with paint you want to use a perforated pattern,paint in between the lines Hope this helps
------------------ PKing is Pat King of King Sign Design in McCalla,Alabama The Professor of SIGNOLOGY
Posts: 3113 | From: Pompano Beach, FL. USA | Registered: Nov 1998
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If you use the Nazdar Permaflex ink as I recommended, you do not need to prime.
Here are the why's and wherefore's......
Lettering enamels tend to bleed through the fabric. They also bleed under the mask too easily. Permaflex is thick (never thin it). It will bond with the fabric without bleeding.
Permaflex is also more durable than lettering enamels. Lettering enamels by their nature become hard and can easily crack, especially if used on a valance.
Lettering enamels require the primer to dry thoroughly before they can be applied. Since Permaflex doesn't require a primer, you are already one step ahead of the game.
Lettering enamels must be dry before a second coat can be applied. Permaflex does not. In fact, once the first coat of Permaflex is applied, I can immediately apply the second coat while the first coat is still wet.
Because the Permaflex ink is thick, it will not move or run. This allows you to remove the mask while the ink is still wet.
Last week, my helper lettered a rigid valance for Nationwide Insurance. The lettering on the logo was only 3/4" tall. The main copy was 14" tall. White lettering on blue Sunbrella. She completed the entire awning in about 1.5 hours - start to finish. This includes double coating.
She billed out $350.
Almost forgot....any old brush will do as long as the bristles are reasonably stiff. I like using the cheap china bristle brushes.
Pat, the material is acryllic canvas. Sunbrella is one popular trade name. the stuff acts like its got a teflon or Scotchguard coat - my WET paint brush just kind of skipped over it, with only a bit of paint sticking here and there. you have to PUSH the paint into it.
I'll go get some smaller fitch like things (the only one i have is 1/2 round, and too bulky for the scrolls on the guy's logo.
Glenn, thanks for the rest of the info on the screen inks. i'm not sure how much more awning work i'll ever get, ...is it worth having a whole second set of paints just for that? would it make sense to use the screen ink as a white basecoat, and topcoat it with colored Deka enamels?
Roger, yes, i did try to prep with rapid-prep. it got the stuff wet, but didn't seem to do much else.
i WONT try to prime with waterborne Ti-Cote in the future.
i think i earned about $5/hour on this job, but i LEARNED a whole lot, and that's worth a bunch to me right now.
------------------ :: Scooter Marriner :: :: Coyote Signs :: :: San Francisco :: :: don't blame me... i'm just a beginner ::
Posts: 1356 | From: Oakland (and San Francisco) | Registered: Mar 2001
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posted
Learning is all part of the process Scooter! You are lucky to have such a place as this to go to in order to make that process not so hard on you. There is a LOT of information here for you to use. Hope this helps
------------------ PKing is Pat King of King Sign Design in McCalla,Alabama The Professor of SIGNOLOGY
Posts: 3113 | From: Pompano Beach, FL. USA | Registered: Nov 1998
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