posted
Matthew...If you are refering to SignGold as the "gold leaf vinyl" then it already comes with a 14 year outdoor life warantee. That seems like a pretty long life to me. I have never used it on signfoam but I have used a lot of it on other jobs. I can vouch for the fact that it's topcoating is resistant to practically any type of graffiti (As discovered by a marina that clearcoated a boat that I had lettered with it. After a year the clearcoat had all fallen off the SignGold but the rest of the boat was fine!) and it sticks to the substrate so well that trying to remove it is a painfully slow prcess.
------------------ Dave Grundy AKA "applicator" on mIRC "stickin' sticky stuff to valuable vessels and vehicles!" in Granton, Ontario, Canada 1-519-225-2634 dave.grundy@quadro.net www.quadro.net/~shirley
posted
For the less expensive but still beautiful and durable route....consider Avery-Spar-cal's imitation leaf products....they take a minute to get your blade depth set right, but you can really make money off of the film if you price it right...
as for protecting it, and again making a little extra money, get either Ronan, Chromatic, or ONE SHOT's Waterbase UV clear and offer that to the client at an added charge...the stuff can double the life expectancy of the product, and it really enhances the overall sheen as well....
just my 2¢
Barry
------------------ Master's Touch Signs & Screenprinting Clinton AR 5017456246 ICQ 17430008 "Imagine the Possibilities..."
Posts: 2500 | From: Clinton, AR USA | Registered: Nov 1998
| IP: Logged |
posted
Hi Cheryl...The marina is well known for their professional work and they had even gone to the trouble of sanding the surface of the SignGold with 400 grit sandpaper prior to painting. NOTHING sticks to that "tedlar surface!
Also, another word of advice, that I learned the hard way. The first SignGold job I did, I cut the SignGold and then cut the outline in such a way that the outline overlapped the edges of the SignGold. That was a big mistake. Within a month the parts of the outline that were on the Signgold were lifting. I had to go back and remove the outline and re-cut another outline that didn't make contact with the SignGold. Since then I do it that way or I lay the SignGold on top of the outline.
------------------ Dave Grundy AKA "applicator" on mIRC "stickin' sticky stuff to valuable vessels and vehicles!" in Granton, Ontario, Canada 1-519-225-2634 dave.grundy@quadro.net www.quadro.net/~shirley
posted
Thanks Dave......I am a little concerned as I have to re-do someone else's design.(it had been on there for years) They removed the old letters...now they want it to look just like the old one. I said it would be better just to start from scratch. Anyways...I am going to look at it this morning....so I will email you with more questions if that is ok. have a great day!
posted
If, as Dave Grundy wondered, you are talking about SignGold, I have had great results applying SignGold on top of TC Resin on SignFoam. TC Resin is an epoxy that you add One Shot to and then flow on the letters. Very smooth and very durable.
------------------ Dave Sherby "Sandman" SherWood Sign & Graphic Design Crystal Falls, MI 49920 906-875-6201 ICQ: 21604027 sherwood@up.net
posted
TC Resin is a product from the guys that make the GrainFraim & Duracaps. Toll free, 800-338-4499. Ask for Mike Bloomquist and he'll send you a sample of TC Resin on SignFoam and let you know who distributes it near you. I get mine from N. Glantz & Son out of Milwaukee. They have asked me to demo TC Resin at the International Letterheads meet but Mike may be doing it himself.
Tell Mike you heard about it here as he has expressed interest in becoming a Letterville Merchant. Last I spoke to him he was very close to signing up. Another little nudge won't hurt.
TC Resin is a 2 part epoxy formulated at a 50/50 mix of hardner & resin for easy use and for a proper amount of working time. This is the real key to its success over using epoxies meant for bonding. As epoxies go, once TC Resin is spread, it is quite slow to cure. In 8 total ounces of resin you only need to add a teaspoon or 2 of One Shot. It dries hard as a rock and sticks to paint or raw HDU like crazy. Actually it sticks to almost everything except for the application bottles which can be cleaned out and used over and over. His kit includes a small spray bottle for spritzing the resin with denatured alcohol after application to remove bubbles. It dries with a very high gloss and is super smooth so it makes a great surface for guilding. I can apply a coat of TC Resin in about the same amount of time as it would take to apply a single coat of paint, so labor is greatly reduced. You lay down about a 1/8th inch bead of resin along the letters about 1/4 to 1/2 inch apart. By the time you've laid out all the resin in your bottle, alot of it will have spread already. You bring the resin to the edge of your letters or graphic with your finger. Many times I'll use the handle end of an exacto knife, a small screw driver, anyting that will push the resin around. You have to make sure the sign is level before you start. That's it! In 12 hours it is hard. In 24 hours you can do additional painting if necessary.
Don't forget to mention Letterville to Mike. Also, I have absolutly no affiliation with Mike. I simply discovered a new product that works great and save me ALOT of production time which makes me very happy and makes me way more money than the extra cost of the resin.
------------------ Dave Sherby "Sandman" SherWood Sign & Graphic Design Crystal Falls, MI 49920 906-875-6201 ICQ: 21604027 sherwood@up.net
Printer-friendly view of this topic