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When lettering trailers, I remove the rivets for a clean look, and to ease application of 2 or 3 vinyl layers. They are a 6 point inset head. I use a 25mm square driver to remove the screws because torx head fittings won't fit.
There are always 2 or 3 that are so tight I can't get them out. Then the 4 point tip strips the 6 point head, and I'm toast. I cut the vinyl around these by hand.
Anyone have a remedy? I keep thinking I should write hallmark, pace and other manufactures to see if I can get one of thier installation tips.
In six years, I did a wells cargo that finally had a standard torx head. Jeeeesh!
------------------ Mike Duncan Lettercraft Signs Alexandria VA
From here on down, its all up hill.
[This message has been edited by Mikes Mischeif (edited May 07, 2001).]
Posts: 1328 | From: Centreville, VA | Registered: Oct 2000
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posted
I've done the same with trailers. I also found I had to file many of the screw holes because there was usually a raised shard of metal from the self tapping screws that messed up the squeegee. Never had a problem removing screws though.
Happy Signing.....Marty
------------------ Marty Happy Signmaker Since 1974 Happy Ad Sign & Design Regina SK, Canada S4N 5K4
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just some thoughts while pondering whatever happened to phil myre...
mike...
we got the driver bits from a trailer dealer near us. the cost a couple of bucks apeice. well worth the outrageous amount. makes life a whole lot easier. the screws are a little tight sometimes so we use a driver handle to loosen them. we use a cordless drill to remove the majjority of them. remember to put all the screws in a cup and place them in a safe place.
we tape the vinyl in place and only take out the ones that need to be removed. hey, why remove more than you have to. i just wish those dang doors weren't such a bugger to work around. i really dislike those latches and hinges.
hope this helped you some. have a great one!
------------------ Bruce Bowers DrCAS Signtech
"how great are His signs..." Daniel 4:3
i am a proud supporter of this website!
Posts: 6464 | From: Saint Cloud, Minnesota | Registered: Jun 1999
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posted
I have been doing a series of 53' trailers that only have screws holding on the door panels. Luckily, they have all been standard phillips screw heads, and haven't had any problem getting them out. I have never had a customer complain about the screw heads showing through either. Looking at the entire trailer, no one ever notices such small things as the screws anyway.
------------------ Tyler Malinky
A Step Above Signs Cleveland, Ohio 440.479.8129 440.842.1894 fax
www.astepabovesigns.com tmalinky@astepabovesigns.com or exmayors@aol.com
Posts: 190 | From: Parma, Ohio USA | Registered: May 2001
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Gerber had a new vinyl at the ISA show that was perfed, and laid down over rivets like they were not there. Amazing stuff. It will cost more, but might be worth the time saving of taking out and reinstalling rivets. Vic G
------------------ Victor Georgiou AnchorBlanks.com Jack Wills Clipart CD's Designs Cut to Any Size Serving the Trade Only
Posts: 1746 | From: Danville, CA , USA | Registered: Dec 1998
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Yup, I take them out all the time, I also take only the ones I need to.
I recently obtained a square bit from a Snap-On tool guy, it has a carbide tip, lasts way longer than the standard square tip.
If we can't get one out I grind a slot in it and use a flat head screw driver. Going over any rivet on an Edge print can be fatal to the image some times.
------------------ Bob Rochon Creative Signworks Millbury, MA bob@creativesignworks.com
"Some people's kids"
Posts: 5149 | From: Millbury, Mass. U.S. | Registered: Nov 1998
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I just did a brand new concession stand trailer last week and removed the screws at the customer's request. I have always just worked over the rivets in the past, but I think I will start doing them all this way whenever possible from now on.
One thing though - at first glance I thought the screws were Torx heads, but upon closer observation I noticed eight points instead of six. This is to allow a standard square driver bit to be inserted quickly. Some of them were tough to get started, but I used a screwdriver by hand to break them loose and had no problems. I also only removed the ones I had to.
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I too have run into the "specialty "head" and ground a pair of vice grips so they fit snug to the metal and catch the edges tightly (if they should scuff the surface it doesn't matter because the vinyl will cover it)
But here's a neat little trick...have you noticed how the vinyl wants to wad up when you replace the screw? Put a pop-rivot washer (1/8" hole)on the screw and run it in as hard as you want and you won't wad any vinyl. The washer is the same size as the head on the screw and so thin you can't see it unless you know it's there.
------------------ Monte Jumper SIGNLanguage/Norman.Okla.
[This message has been edited by Monte Jumper (edited May 07, 2001).]
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