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I spent a weekend in a tourist town studying the array of fine signs, their qualities (lasting and effectiveness). I was quite astonished by the interesting uses for clear coats on signs. First of all they lend a very snappy color and leveling effect for closeup viewing. Second I didn't see any of the several I viewed to be cracking or fading at all....... BUT the one drawback I saw was the use of clears on gold gilded signs. They really lost it. Though from inside 10 feet, they still viewed fair, from across the street, you might have well used school bus paint. Maybe it was the thickness that it was applied.....I have 3 questions: What is a correct type of clear for covering and enamel multi-colored sign of under 40 square feet? Would you limit the thickness of clears over real gold, or avoid it completely? And another odd question; Can you revitalize vinyl by using a cleaner and some type of clear? I know that probably most people would replace it, but seen some rather difficult redos, that might more simply be revitalized by getting rid of the oxidated look, maybe getting a couple of more years out of them......Thanks, Bronzeo
------------------ Jack Davis 1410 Main St Joplin, MO 64801 www.imagemakerart.com bronzeo@prodigy.net http://www.imagemakerart.com
Posts: 1549 | From: Joplin, MO | Registered: Mar 2000
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I've been experimenting with automotive urathane clears on signs, instead of like spar varnish. Urathanes are crystal clear, dry way faster, do'nt seem to harm the other stains & paints. I did three sandblasted, stained & guilded signs a year & a half ago with automotive clear, sprayed four coats, one is out in the sun, west exposure, And it still looks great. Spar varnish requiers a recoat every year, takes 24 hours to recoat, is very amber in color. I am hoping this holds up for years, time will tell. Any clear is going to kill the brillance of gold leaf somewhat, but these looked pretty good. Spar would really kill it, with its dark amber color. Maybe that's what you saw.
------------------ Robert Thomas Creative Signs In Beautiful Naples, Fl.
Posts: 965 | From: Bonita Springs, Florida USA | Registered: Feb 2000
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You do not want to clear coat real gold. Ive had good luck with clear coats and believe they help extend life. This is controversial tho and many think it doesnt. I have used both sign finish clear and a regular UV varnish.
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We use a product made by Triangle Coatings called Danacolors Plastic Shield UV. #D402 gloss unltraviolet inhibitive acrylic clear coat. We use it on all of our nice flat signs. We have been using it for 10 years with excellent results. We thin it with mineral spirits, about 1/2 and 1/2. Goes on real easy with a foam short nap (TIZ) yellow roller. Dries hard after about a week, so you have to keep your fingers out of it for a couple of days. We also offer a service to our customers of re-coating it every year. Makes the signs look great.
Also...there was a post a few weeks ago about a product called "Pelucid" A Polyurethane Prepolymer POR15. You might go back and look at it.
Any questions on Danacolor clear...E-mail me and I will give you the scoop on it...
I also agree....Don't clear over gold unless you absolutly have to...It really effects the look and brilliance of real gold leaf, but we use "Frog Juice" when we do have to clear gold. Even that tends to orange-out the gold. I use automotive clears on the big yachts that I gold leaf. It keeps the brilliance and protects the gold.
------------------ Jackson Smart Jackson's Signs Port Angeles, WA
Livin in the Great Northwest!
Supporter Via the Auction
[This message has been edited by Jackson Smart (edited April 30, 2000).]
Posts: 1000 | From: Port Angeles, Washington | Registered: Jan 1999
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posted
I normally do not like to clear gold leaf, but in my area near the coast, the salt air will affect the gold since it has some copper or silver added. On vehicles I wax the gold to protect it.
------------------ Robert Thomas Creative Signs In Beautiful Naples, Fl.
Posts: 965 | From: Bonita Springs, Florida USA | Registered: Feb 2000
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posted
Jackson's right. We used Pelucid on lots of substratsa including gold leaf about two years ago. As of today........no change. My 2c
------------------ St.Marie Graphics & Makin' Tracks Sound Studio Kalispell, Montana Mkntraks@digisys.net Carving America into a better shape! PEACE, through superior chisel-power! We're chiseling every day of the week! :^)
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Pierre, Though I have read and agree with most of your posts on Pelucid, I still think that any clear over gold basicly destroys it. I have read here where many have used it for protection from hands where it is accessable to them. In short every instance of use of clear over gold that I have seen, cut its presence by at least 50% if not more. Outside of that, would you recommend the pelucid for either of the other uses. I think that the post where you use gold outside of the clear is probably a good idea, but would you have to underprime it again?
------------------ Jack Davis 1410 Main St Joplin, MO 64801 www.imagemakerart.com bronzeo@prodigy.net http://www.imagemakerart.com
Posts: 1549 | From: Joplin, MO | Registered: Mar 2000
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