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» The Letterville BullBoard » Old Archives » clearing over vinyl

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Author Topic: clearing over vinyl
Erkko Vainikainen
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Member # 1025

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Hello everybody!

I've been doing some experiments with painting on vinyl surfaces, and came to a conclusion that it need to be clearcoated. I tried PPG automotive acrylic 2component clearcoat and it worked really nice. My question is, what kinds of experiences you guys have about this method? It would be nice to know, is there any " hidden effects " that comes into life after some time has gone? I'm using 1Shot with acrylichardener and Createx AutoAir, and AveryDennison vinyls. Every comment is welcome and needed!

Thanks very much!

Erkko Vainikainen
EV-Graphics
Lieksa,Finland

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Erkko Vainikainen


Posts: 4 | From: Lieksa, Finland | Registered: Aug 1999  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Henry Barker
Resident


Member # 174

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Hi there in Finland!

I have 1 Shot, Createx Auto-air, and Deka sign air and enamels here, I too use Avery Vinyls 600, 800, and 900 series, I clear with a well known clear coat that has promoted some controversial posting here. It seems to hold up well with the exception of using graphics on diesel tanks on trucks, I have one customer who has an immaculate fleet of Volvo Globetrotters, we did some flames down the tanks, and although they don't spill diesel you get expansion at times allowing small amounts to run down the side of the graphics. One tip seen here previously was to clearcoat the vinyl before airbrushing. Interestingly is there such a word....I have had airbrushed effects on signs on the front of my workshop (deka) without clear that have held up well for the last 4 years, the same with a Volvo 245 I had airbrushed fades on that too which were not cleared but sat low down on the doors...I think we have similar weather conditions and things worked well....I removed everything recently as the rusting, ageing parts around the advertising were not good for the company,I have had one of my own logos done as stickers printed on a well known thermal printer sit outside for much less time also in the same position south facing and the yellow and orange has all but faded away, I wont mention the brand name of the machine as there is no guarantee these were printed with their colors or vinyls. Do you ever get over here to Sweden?

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Henry Barker #1924
akaKaftan
SignCraft AB
Stockholm, Sweden.
A little bit of England in a corner of Stockholm
www.signcraft.se
info@signcraft.se


Posts: 1552 | From: Stockholm, Sweden | Registered: Nov 1998  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Erkko Vainikainen
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Member # 1025

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Hello Henry!

Thanks for Your reply! It's very nice to contact people worldwide like this... I think I'm ready (soon) to do my first airbrushed vinyljob! Mostly I do vinylgraphics, but I think airbrushing would give nice, more live-like effect to them.

I live right next door to the " big one ", our eastern neighbour, so I quess the weather conditions in Stockholm are a bit more nicer, but mostly it's the same. Warm summers and cold winters.

I've been to Sweden twice, but I don't have any plans to get there at this moment, though one of my future plans is to make a good,long summervacation and drive my through Sweden from Haparanda to Stockholm and see something more about the country. We'll see when I manage to do that!

I visited Your website, You are making very nice graphics!

Erkko

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Erkko Vainikainen


Posts: 4 | From: Lieksa, Finland | Registered: Aug 1999  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Neil D. Butler
Resident


Member # 661

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Hi there in Finland, I'm your closest Neighbor in North America.. Yah I know the rest of you heard that before.
I don't know if I'm supposed to mention them but as far as using paint and clear, Krylon brand works great in both applications. the good thing about theses products is that they come in aresol cans and all you havt to do is spray the color or clear in a cup and voilla instant pre-mixed paint for your airbrush.
Neil Butler
St. John's NFLD Canada

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"Keep Positive"


Posts: 6277 | From: St. John's NF Canada | Registered: Mar 1999  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Wizsigns
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Member # 778

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I have been working on this problem and the advice has been to Frog Juice first then paint.
I am also trying to acrylic laquer then paint which should work out the same - I still have to do the final test with that one.
The paints to use are Createx auto air (water based so easy for cleaning up etc. but need to be set with a hair dryer). One Shot - popular as a choice but take longer to dry and are messier to use allegedly. Deka enamels or Krylon. The krylon in aerosols - could be limited color wise if you need something specific, possibly.
You will need to clearcoat over the top after any way also.

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David Allen
Wizard Signs - It's a kind of magic!
ICQ 3467358
Email wizsigns@esatclear.ie
ICQ Pager 3467358@pager.icq.com
www.esatclear.ie/~davidallen/wizard.htm
Proud $ Supporter of the Website


Posts: 280 | From: Virginia, Co. Cavan, Ireland | Registered: May 1999  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Jerry Mathel
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Member # 526

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Hi Erkko,

You are on the right track with the materials you are using. I have found that PPG's "Concept 20-20" works especially good as a clear coat. You need to be a little careful using it, as I understand it is quite toxic. Adding the catalyst to the One-Shot seems to do the trick for stopping the "lifting" problem when you apply the polyurethane/epoxy clearcoat.

This process really makes a beautiful, durable sign, but I don't see many shops here doing this. Probably because of the premium price you have to get for something like this. I use some of the other things like Frog Juice and Krylon when I need to keep the price down. There's a big difference between $20 a quart for Frog Juice and $60 a quart for 20-20, but there is no comparison whatsoever in the quality of the finished product.

Jerry Mathel
Jerry Mathel Signs
Grants Pass, Oregon
jmathel@grantspass.com

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Posts: 916 | From: Grants Pass, OR USA | Registered: Dec 1998  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Kent Smith
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Member # 251

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Just a cautionary note. Contrary to popular misconceptions, clear coating will not necessarily improve durability. Test results are available from many different national sources. Most common enamels and lacquers as well as some acrylics will not permanetly adhere directly to vinyl. A conversion coating over the vinyl is a necessary first step.

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Kent Smith
Smith Sign Studio
Greeley, Colorado, USA
oldgilt@aol.com



Posts: 1025 | From: Estes Park, CO | Registered: Nov 1998  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
Pekka Mannermaa
Visitor
Member # 341

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Erkko my man,
I suppose your point is to get rid of the dust when you are painting the fades with the airbrush? What about trying to paint the base coat with brush and 1-Shot and then doing the fading like wet on wet... do the airbrushing when the base 1-Shot is still wet. It will give you a nice surface even without the clearcoat.
But you still have to have a good surfacer over the vinyl. Which brings us to Frog Juice. Tilataan sitä, mutta ei aerosolissa. Olen mukana, mutta talla hetkellä en voi osallistua itse tilaamiseen muutto-ym asioiden vuoksi.
Take care man! Meet ya in the next nordic pinhead meeting.
Pekka

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Pekka Mannermaa
Continental Kraphix Oy
Turku, Finland
wizzzard@netti.fi


Posts: 15 | From: Turku, Finland, Europe | Registered: Jan 1999  |  IP: Logged | Report this post to a Moderator
   

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